rs73

$145 is cheap ? I had $165 once for doing 65km/h in a 60 zone, it was one Sunday afternoon with no traffic in one main road, must have let the speed accidentally creep up... (no cruise control on the R33). There's a couple spots on WRR that have traffic cameras. so you gotta watch out around there...

265/30/19 is a bit too small ? is that for the rear, or are you putting it on the front ? best one not to throw your speedo off would either be 265/35r19 or 275/35r19

True, they're like 2-stroke lawnmowers on steroid!

My brother bought a brand new RX 8 and the Mazda dealer literally gave him a small bottle of engine oil and tell him to monitor the oil as the renesis engine will burn oil FROM NEW... If that oil burning phenomenon has started to occur since the engine was new, imagine if you're buying a used RX 7, how good do you know the previous owner in maintaining the engine, and topping up the oil when needed ? You never know. Nevertheless they are great car, but you need to be prepare to maintain it properly, I mean this car is not some kind of an old corolla.

Well then Sydney & Geelong people shouldn't be considering buying the R35 GTR at all... as the thing's got 20" rims... ? Imagine bending the rims each weekend you took the car for a drive.

Are 35 profile tyres considered - too thin ?

would it be depending on the shape of the spokes? some cheap rims tried to have that same look with a forged jdm rims, but they're not forged... so go figure... also another thing I noted at the back of my rays there's a 690kg imprint. I reckon this will be the max weight limit that each rim can handle before on to the breaking point... if the one you have breaks too easily, perhaps it's time to see what's the weight limit on your rims and what car you have it on... A V35 is around 1500kg so on a good balance it should be around 370-400kg each corner. different story if hitting a pothole during a hard braking that could transfer most of the vehicle weight to the front so the loading will be greater.

I've got a sportec mono 10 made by RAYS which I think is a cast wheel. is there a way to tell if a wheel is cast or forged?

You're saying ENKEI and RAYS will just get bent easily going over bumps in our roads ???

poobah, if you're not home the courier may leave a calling card. or they may re-schedule for 2nd attempt

fair enough, as long as the tyre pattern is symmetrical then you can swap left and right every 10000kms

Yes, that mounting rubber is what I mean... Well 2" round tips x 2 are equal to a surface area of (2"/2)^2 x pi (3.14) x 2 = 6.28 sq-inch While your temporary pipe was 2.25" with surface area of (2.25"/2)^2 x 3.14 = 3.97 sq-inch So basically you've increased the exhaust tip opening by 58%, I wouldn't be surprised if your exhaust gets louder.

What's the bulb type of low beam on V35 ? My bro had a HID kit on his WRX with (WRC style headlight) that he just sold. The thing is he had to put the lights always at high beam, as putting it on low beam will cause it to flicker (not enough voltage?) So basically he has no 'high beam' because his low beam HID is connected to his high beam stalk position. Will this be operating somewhat similar?

Is that for low beam or high beam? You don't have your stock HID ballast ? or your car never came with one?

How is it mounted, is there a rubber grommet (spelling?) on the mount? That should absorb some vibration. Also is the temp pipe you had before the same size with the exhaust tip you got now? Bigger exhaust tip will affect the noise too. If anyone tell you a 60mm exhaust tip and a 115mm exhaust tip doesn't make a difference in noise, I would never believe them. I had an Apexi silencer cone, which silenced my 115mm exhaust tip of the old R33 gtst, the cone shape only have maybe 2" opening.

gotta remember that tips... but mostly I parallel-parked rear end in first. let the traffic behind me wait for me reversing if they have to, rather than trying to be the front end in first 'heroes' finally ordering some McGard nuts which I've seen have a special socket that's long enough to protudes out of the rims for the wrench to reach. The thing is I gotta get a breaker bar with 13/16" socket adapter, rather than using the stock wrench. Cost me $260 for the splinedrive McGard nuts and locking nuts, which apparently one of the best I was told. It has a rotating conical seat that prevents scratching of rims, and nuts loosening from vibration. I saw a sample for Toyota / Mazda (M12/1.5mm) and they're quite solid construction, much much better than those alumnium lightweight 5Zigen ones. Alternatively I could get Nismo black long heptagonal nuts (no locking nuts), with long socket adapter that looks like will fit the std wrench hex21mm? But at $300+ delivered it's rather scary pricing. I'll see how the McGard goes, if I don't like it then perhaps I'll get the Nismo ones and have it exchanged...

R34 25GT, hey? N/A? N/A tends to drone more, unfortunately. It's a whole lot different to turbo car exhaust that usually goes quieter as soon as the turbo went on boost, before building up noise towards high rpm. Does the system has a centre resonator? Adding 1 or 2 resonators before the final exhaust may help. But it's a tricky engineering, as with N/A the correct amount of back pressure is required for the exhaust to be able to flow exhaust gas effectively as there's no forced induction assistance to push the exhaust gas out of the tip as quick as possible, so only the alternating cylinder action that keeps everything in motion... get this wrong you'll loose power, and heaps of other issues. Nissan engineers spent countless hours putting their research into your factory exhaust, I doubt any exhaust shop will be able to come up with a perfect custom/one off solution overnight (unless they've done the same design on the same RB25DE engine before). Sometimes it is better to spend a bit more and get a JDM catback that bolts on and have gone through extensive research from the manufacturers (e.g. HKS, Trust, Apexi) rather than cutting corners and end up going back and forth for different adjustment until you get perfectly what you want. Unless the exhaust workshop has done a similar custom design on exactly another R34 GT N/A and their custom system has been proved to be good. Anything else, be prepared for multiple trips and minor adjustments as I said, until you get that perfect sound and performance gain.

Is -2.5 degree a bit too much for daily driving ? I had my R33 previously set to around this, as I took it to track once in a while, and it wears out the inside half of the tyres real fast... as it's driven more on the street basically daily.

IMHO, PS3 is more common... we've only got Wii so far not much game but we only play tennis and wife doing yoga on Wii fit... lol... Graphic wise perhaps PS3 is better plus you can use it for bluray player too.

Haven't happened to me so far. But recently I've been using Firefox... What I found out is I no longer can alter/edit my previous posts...

Will follow up. I've just noticed so far RDA have only charged my account up to Group Buy 40 which was sent out last week. So my guess is 41 is next. BTW Muz, have you got yours by now? You were in Group buy 40...

these are the photos, looks like not much sidewall protection at the front (1st pic), but the rear (2nd pic) is a little bit better but not much...

Looks like it, relying on sidewall only. I'll try to post a photo later tonight... BTW Chris, you got that pic of 22" ? keen to see. I've seen a chrome 22" in flesh on a black Chrysler 300C, it looks mad, and suit the VIP style look of the car.

Well on mine I think they're not stretching, as front tyres are 245 which is about 9.6" wide on a 8.5" wide rims, and rear tyres are 275 which is about 10.8" wide on a 9.5" wide rims.

damn, that's disheartening. where did you park?