rs73

Yes, next group buy is open to interests till 17th Sept quote sent

thank's for the support... Has any of you listed below received your rotors? if not I will follow up. 2. jvs007 3. blk r33 gtst 4. _Wing_ 5. R33line

What's CEL ?

quote sent, and Group buy 36 orders has been submitted for estimated next week's delivery: 1. Traditimetour (payment cleared) 2. ISC-Performance (payment cleared) 3. pingping (payment cleared) 4. brinners (payment cleared)

V35 are definitely slower than 350Z, probably by half a second at least. They're obviously heavier with 4 seats coupe body, not to say the longer sedan body. Without major forced induction mods it'll probably a bit waste of money unless you're a fan of N/A performance (low down torque, no lag, etc). There's a lot of cars that actually had that shifter action upshift forward and downshift backwards, e.g. Mazda... I've hardly seen any (never driven europeans) except local Ford BA Falcon that has it turned the other way around to what logically correct (upshift backward, downshift forward). But there is a DIY here on the forum how to re-wire it if you prefer it goes the other way around. Problem is finding the + and - label to stick on the gearshifter panel once you've done that - can be left alone but will kinda confuse other people paddle shift might be a love/hate relationship... some people love it, some hate it. I've read Motors review that after a while on some cars the novelty of the paddle shift is gone and people tend to leave the gear in 'D' unless the paddle shift is the only way to drive the car. And the Top Gear guys hated them. It's been placed as one of the most hated things of the century (they put a picture of a Ferrari steering with paddle shift) in last Monday's episode on SBS Sedan V35 with 8sp CVT has paddle shift, but they don't turn with the steering wheel. Looking at even how standard torque converter autos start to come with 5sp or 6sp on some cars, I think in the future most cars will be shifting towards automatic and CVT and DSG style gearbox like in GTR or Golf GTi... clutch pedal may soon be extinct from high end market cars...

Nice looking 20 inches. Wonder what will be the tyre size though... Well I'm planning to get this in 19" staggered set... I'm trying to keep it sensible and not too big, just in case the 20s are not lightweight. Sportec Mono10, a common switzerland rims for Audi/Porsches. Managed to find one in 5x114.3 pattern.

I think USA has quite strict emission law, if it passes CARB (California Air Research Bureau), I think most likely it'll pass EPA standard here. But I'm not sure which one is more strict CARB or EPA when it comes to emission.

How do you install it? does it involves removing or disassembling the headlight assembly? sounds like lots of work...

Added one more update to Group buy 36 orders: 1. Traditimetour (payment cleared) 2. ISC-Performance (payment cleared) 3. pingping (waiting for payment to clear) 4. brinners (waiting for payment to clear) As soon as the 2 payments clear order will be sent out. delivery estimated next week.

Update Group buy 36 orders: 1. Traditimetour (payment cleared) 2. ISC-Performance (payment cleared) 3. pingping (waiting for payment to clear)

Great, just in time for your track day? Update Group buy 36 orders: 1. Traditimetour (payment cleared) 2. ISC-Performance (payment cleared) Just waiting on confirmation from a couple more people then this will be ready to send off end of this week.

factory 19" optional rims have these tyre sizes I believe: Fr - 225/40R19, Rr - 245/40R19 Has the car been complied and registered (ie passed RWC and/or vicroads/RTA inspection) ? If not yet best is to stick to that factory sizes above and make sure the compliance workshop have the 19" sizes on the tyre placard just to save you trouble. if you're thinking to swap it, those tyre sizes above can fit onto the 8.5 & 9.5 wide rims but probably at the maximum limit. 225/40R19 is still good for front 8.5" rims as it's only 0.5" wider, but rear 245/40R19 might look a bit undersized as your new rims will be 1.5" wider at the back than std. You can get either 235/35R19 or 245/35R19 for the front which is close to rolling diameter, and for the rear you'll need to get 265/35R19 or 275/35R19... but again if you wanna keep within the legal limit above the standard factory/dealer tyres, I'll suggest to take 235/35R19 & 265/35R19 as these are within 1" wider than the maximum tyre available/allowed on the vehicle. 245 front might work but I personally don't like the front to be too wide as it may make the steering a bit heavy on low speed and also the tramlining effect is increased on bumpy surface or in the rain. PS: not much tyres available in those sizes, but I found probably Bridgestone RE050A is available in those sizes, also Yokohama V103 available as well in those sizes. Price is about $300-350 each...

no idea, I have a japanese JDM sales brochure from japan and they didn't really put the weight difference. but you could say probably 20-30kg more considering all those leather, extra Bose amp, speaker and/or subwoofer, and navigation tv / dvd rom drive they put in... not to mention that from Japan they may either come in standard 17" or 18" optional rims which will be heavier, and not to mention 19" optional rims on 2005/2006+ model - so it's very hard to guess how each model actually weighs. the standard or in general, V35 range is around 1540-1580kg already with 3.5ltr engine in coupe & sedan form. these are not light cars... more of luxury cruisers.

not really. cos I don't have a word to describe the other grade other than premium. should have said just 'track' without the word 'lower' if that is probably better to describe it. but it depends on each person, race enthusiast will say the premium version is the 'lower' grade as they are heavier and slower around the track. i'm talking from the point of view of someone nearing mid life crisis who wants a more luxury feel in an affordable car, thus the track version is my 'lower' grade regardless whether the track version have brembo or 300kw more than my premium model....

You DON'T automatically get brembos with manual. There are manual out there that doesn't come with brembos. Brembo is a factory option that ceases on 2005+ model, so you'll need to stick with '03 - '04 manual coupes to find one with brembos. Also a lot of the manual with brembo also came in the lower grade 'track' model with no leather (only plain cloth seat) and no bose/navigation screen. So again, finding one with all the combination that you want can be quite fun. Again if you only drive it in traffic, brembo or no brembo doesn't make any difference really, and auto is probably a lot easier and practical. It has a tiptronic mode (semi auto) so again you can get some control over it. I came out of a 230rwkw (+/- 270kw @ flywheel) R33 Gtst manual into a stock standard V35 auto, and I still find the factory 5sp tiptronic quite a lot of fun either in 'drive' mode or in manual tiptronic mode, and still have a lot of acceleration power for an automatic car.

quick update, the next group buy 36 orders: 1. Traditimetour (waiting for payment to clear) 2. ISC-Performance (waiting for payment to clear)

On the way to work spotted a blue V35 coupe waiting on the traffic light at cnr of Dudley & King St, waiting to turn right into King St this morning around 8am...

All these orders' payment received (Group Buy 35) will be sent out soon... 2. jvs007 3. blk r33 gtst 4. _Wing_ 5. R33line

Due to forums down, I'll extend Group Buy 35 Orders: This order have been sent out today: 1. thebuzz (payment cleared) And the following will be sent out soon: 2. jvs007 3. blk r33 gtst

quote sent. Group Buy 35 is rolling - on a short notice it's ending in 4 days... Orders: 1. thebuzz (waiting for payment to clear)

I dunno... never heard of it avaiable for local Nissan... maybe try the RainX from Repco / Autobarn or Supercheap?

that dealer option is kinda rain-x but it needs to be re-applied every few years ie. every 3 years. so yours should have 'expired' in 2004, unless the previous owner in Japan re-applied it prior to the car imported here. if not that, then thank's to the 0.27Cd low aerodynamic drag of the Skyline...

During bedding in new rotors, the process sometimes need to be reasonably 'violent', involving a few hard stops from 60-80km/h, followed by a few series of mild braking, then a few hard braking again. that should remove any residues sittin' on top of the rotor surface.

Swapping rotors alone may not solve noise problem. noise are mostly caused by uneven surface btwn rotors and pads, they get worse as the rotors/pads gets older and becomes uneven. Other factor is bad install. I had people kept complaining it's their brand new pads and rotors that caused the noise but when their car finally get looked at by a real experienced brake mechanics, a simple take off and re-fit, with no additional of any brake goos, the noise just gone. If you fit new pads to old rotors, make sure the old rotors surface is checked and machined if there are grooves on the old rotors. Believe it or not there are lots of 'dodgy' backyard brake install that could have caused the noise. Of course there are cases where some unknown chinese brand pads or rotors on ebay are the real culprit because you just don't know where they are made and whether the manufacturer made them with strict standards. All RDA rotors & EBC pads (UK) are manufactured to ISO standard and very unlikely it is the failing component. Make sure you clean the rotors nicely before putting it on. a natural mineral turpentine (avoid very harsh chemical) mgiht work, with some old rags - lots of old rags perhaps that's how I cleaned mine. If not, then the oil will slowly burns away everytime you brake and a horrible smell and smoke might come out. I'll pm you about the pads sometime tonight... I got a lot on at work today.

yes it is available now since 3 group buys ago... send me a pm to remind me... gotta get back to work now...