rs73

Is that SCS you mean the same with either the SCS-4342 or SCS-3342 ?

No i don't need spare audio buttons what I was thinking is to get the assy from US, cost about $60-80 shipped not quite sure exact shipping cost yet, and see if a local company like Autron can wire it to their generic vacuum cruise control unit.

can you get the cruise control button separately? I had a look at us infiniti parts website seem like they want to sell them as pairs only with the audio buttons...

skizo, from the FAST will you be able to check the part number and if the cruise control button can be purchased separately or comes as a set with the audio buttons? it's the one numbered #5 below.. the right hand side. Thank you!

you could try, but depends how you ask the question they would either just shruf off their shoulders or tell you to get lost and to never go back... selling it again you'll just gonna lost money and just transferring any potential problem to someone else unwary of the situation (if you lied about the reason why you're selling) - which makes you just as bad as the person who did the swap before. just a question of morality here. if you decide to keep the car what I'd suggest is get the car fully checked out, do compression test, check all plugs, the belt tensions etc, by an experienced mechanic, they'll be able to tell if your car has actually done over 100,000km and your timing belt is about time for replacement... it's not gonna be cheap but at least it'll be faster than trying to get your car sold and hunt for another one which could land you with the same case - wound back km cars from Japan... I'd say keep it and take it to a mechanic's and have it serviced so it will be reliable. Heck, my 93 gtst had 35000km on it when I bought it in 2003 (10 yr old car), which i don't really trust but that's the one with best condition i've seen inside out so after purchase i had the timing belt replaced about 6 monthes later, and it returned good service and fun to me over 4 years of ownership... even with 230rwkw the engine holds on with no problems... that's because i had all the required prep done (e.g. full service, check the turbo, careful tuning, new clutch, etc). There should be plenty of good mechanics near you who knows about skylines, the R33/R34 isn't a rare imports these days.

Also does the importer forward you any original service history records from Japan? if the service history is missing, then it's another tell-tale of possible dodgy things, but even if it exist, if the history is patchy then there's no way finding out... 49000km is reasonable for 2002 onwards car, but for anything older than 2001 it's very rare and unless backed by solid japanese service history, there is no guarantee at all. Welcome to the world of imports.

you probably can't prove anything unless the person who did it is caught red handed swapping the speedo. what year is the car?? if it's a 98-99 R34 it's hard to believe it's only done 49000km. anyone could have swapped it, try blaming the dealer/importer they could blame it on the RAWS, try blaming it on the RAWS (but RAWS have no financial gain in swapping it unless they've been looking for a stock manual speedo for their own parts bin), RAWS can blame it on the original Japanese owner. So unless you can speak japanese there's no way you can find out if the japanese owner did it or not. before you buy the car, have you got a detailed picture of the car in Japan with the speedo, and if it has shown any reading different to what you have? if not then you are out of luck. this is just the risk of importing a car from Japan.

FS5R30A is manual transmission so good news your car is not an auto to manual conversion, it originally came with manual transmission with a final diff ratio 4.1:1 (RC41). The auto normally has 4.3:1 final diff ratio (RC43) that was in R33, not sure about in R34 but should be the same I reckon. The bad news is if you have an auto speedo (does it have a display for gearshift position (P,N,R,D etc) that never lights up or being used?) that mean the speedo has been swapped. Most likely either the original one is broken, or the owner had a Nismo 300km speedo and want to keep it when he sold it and couldn't find an auto speedo, or very likely that it has done more kms in Japan, e.g. done 150,000km then they put a 80,000 auto speedo and make people think it's done a low km. Good luck - hope nothing else wrong with the car.

Group Buy 29 update: - Kwyjibo - for R32 gtst front slotted rotors and greenstuff pads (payment has cleared) - debonaire - for R32 gtst slotted rotors (payment cleared) - StageaTypeS - for R33 gtst slotted rotors (payment cleared) - Mr Cali - for R32 GTR early front slotted rotors (payment cleared) - BOZ22N - for R33 GTR front slotted rotors (payment cleared) - chunda - for S15 slotted rotors (payment cleared) - traum - for R33 Gtst EBC green front pads (waiting for payment to clear)

yep, see the updated list just before your post, mate...

Group Buy 29 update: - Kwyjibo - for R32 gtst front slotted rotors and greenstuff pads (payment has cleared) - debonaire - for R32 gtst slotted rotors (payment cleared) - StageaTypeS - for R33 gtst slotted rotors (payment cleared) - Mr Cali - for R32 GTR early front slotted rotors (payment cleared) - BOZ22N - for R33 GTR front slotted rotors (waiting for payment to clear) - chunda - for S15 slotted rotors (waiting for payment to clear) 4 orders have payment cleared, just waiting the other 2...

I can get non slotted but the price is only like $20-30 cheaper than slotted. For the R34 GTT, only the rear 908 is available, no front yet, unless you want to order GTR front 324mm rotors and have it machined down to 310mm, but that's a lot to shave so check if your brake mechanic can do it or not.

Should we consider getting the buttons and have a local company like Autron to figure out how to wire the buttons to their cruise control unit? Or are you still trying to find an OE approach to this, Chris?

I would imagine it would be using the R33 upgrade, however I am not 100% sure if the original mounting point of R32 GTR is the same with R33 Gtst despite the rotor sizes are the same 296mm but the hub height is different between 7926S & 7693S, and therefore the position of the caliper would be different, and the caliper itself might be different as well... Anyhow since the lack of interest to go for larger size rotors, I might just cancel this idea, as people prefer a bolt on upgrade in the other oem replacement rotors group buy which has been successful since 2006!

R33 std 16x6.5" rims are no good. First they sit too high, about 5-10cm too thick and will make the boot carpet over it bulges like a sore ulcer ready to pop. And i've only tested this without tyres on, if a tyre of 205 or 225 is fitted on the rims then the small boot opening might be too tight to get the spare tyre in or out. Also i've done a quick tyre calculator conversion, if we are to use 16x6.5 rims from R33 then we gotta get some very high profile like 225/60 or 205/65R16 to keep the rolling circumference as close as possible to the std 225 & 245/45 R18. And with the 16" under the boot carpet the raised boot floor will reduce the valuable boot space, that only slimmer suitcases would fit in.

Is this conversion software gonna be "beta tested" to make sure that it doesn't actually kill the car system??

Group Buy 29 update: - Kwyjibo - for R32 gtst front slotted rotors and greenstuff pads (payment has cleared) - debonaire - for R32 gtst slotted rotors (payment cleared) - StageaTypeS - for R33 gtst slotted rotors (waiting for payment to clear) - BOZ22N - for R33 GTR front slotted rotors (waiting for payment to clear) - chunda - for S15 slotted rotors (waiting for payment to clear)

brake dude is close but not correct. the correct one is 296mm front and 297mm rear. no slots, just plain both front and rear pairs??

That shouldn't be a problem as long as the rotors on your car now fits with all the caliper position etc. I just need to identify what type are your front GTR rotors... GTR rear & Gtst rear are the same if you're talking about early model R32 GTR. Is your front one the bigger 324mm for R32 GTr vspec/R33 gTr/R34 GTR? Or just the smaller 296mm for the early model R32 GTr?

No. That's a band aid short term solution. I had a Mitsubishi Galant which constantly gone low on oil, up to a point where I need to top up the oil EVERY WEEK. Brought it back to Mitsubishi which investigate and found that the big end bearing seal is worn and the car is loosing oil because of that. Long term solution you should aim to get the car to Nissan and ask them to fix it as they would fix a 350Z engine. at least with V35 the engines is something that Nissan mechanic has seen before in a local 350Z.

I think if everyone change oil every 6 months or every 5000km the amount oil lost due to getting burnt won't be noticeable enough. The problem is these days modern cars' service intervals are getting longer. Our Toyota RAV4 is every 10,000km service interval including oil change, and some cars I know has a 15,000 km service intervals. Some cars are used harder than the others and whenever the oil hasn't been changed in 15,000km, with a bad or incorrect oil in the engine, the amount burnt off could be seen as quite significant... It's a point to consider.. Still, every engine will burn oil, but at least car engines are not the old 2 stroke lawnmower engines which burns oil constantly, thank god for 4 stroke engine invention the oil burnt is a lot lesser than the older technology... My brother bought a brand new RX8 and the dealer gave him a can of engine oil and asked him to check his oil and top it up once in a while if the oil goes low. Rotary engines BURNS OIL since brand new. It's a known fact, and all rotary owners knows it... I think compared to rotary engines, the oil burnt by VQ engines on average should not be any more worse, unless you had a bad luck and bought a car with troubled engine.

So the problem seems to exist on local 350Z, and since the JDM V35 skyline has the same VQ35DE engine, I believe they should have the same potential problem, it's basically the luck of the draw when buying an import. Lucky for that guy he won in court with his 350Z engine replacement, however for a V35 import not sold locally through Nissan, the owners of V35 Skyline would stand no chance in court - Nissan's lawyer is just gonna screw us badly for buying something not offered locally. They'll find hundreds of reasons and excuse not to cover it. So anyone who can't live with the risk buying a lemon should stay away from imports. Any manufacturer's recall on any V35 skyline range will also not be covered by local Nissan dealers either, so we import owners are really left in the dark. If something happens to my V35, then I'll be forking out cash out of my own pocket to get it fix. I was lucky not to had any with my old R33 over 4 yrs of ownership. Jarthel, My family members has owned lots of Toyotas since the 80s (we have a '07 RAV4 now) and none of them have had any problems with the engines - they're probably the best car to buy for people who want to play it real safe... If local Toyota doesn't appeal you, may I suggest to you an import Toyota Supra, Chaser JZX100, or Caldina wagon? I strongly believe they will be far more reliable than V35 Skyline.

I would have thought Nismo spring and shocks are softer than Tein.. Was that the Nismo S-Tune you had, or the Nismo G Attack?

Group Buy 29 update: - Kwyjibo - for R32 gtst front slotted rotors and greenstuff pads (payment has cleared) - debonaire - for R32 gtst slotted rotors (waiting for payment to clear)

Excellent... the sports horn does sound higher and sportier, although I think Nissan initially put the lower note on the standard horn to make it sound like some big european car. At least if I closed my eyes and listen to the two sounds that's the impression I got with the sound of the stock horns.