rs73

don't buy the wrong fluid. there' a specific part number. there's a discussion here, not sure if the guy still got some stock or not... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cv...-8-t261484.html

it might be just a temporary fix until the ECU start gathering data and senses it's seizing up again... if you are not sure whether the previous owner has replaced the tranny oil, then it's a good idea to do it. CVT is very expensive to fix once it has problem, with little knowledge from mechanics in Australia. Murano's & Maxima's CVT are different. Even if it cost $2000 to service the tranny, it's best you spend the money now to prevent problem before it actually happens.

might worth to get the transmission serviced. the CVT tranny oil is special, not the usual Nissan J-Matic. oil itself would cost you about $900 some charge $1000+ then add on top of that the labour cost at the mechanic. Yes, the oil itself is expensive...

I would thought so they can be bought separately.... Especially looking at that scanned receipt, the regulator comes ex. Japan, and the motor assembly comes ex. WA... LOL... needs a lot of very large ID-4 style UFOs to ship a one-piece assembly that spans from Perth to Tokyo...

do you need the regulator as well when replacing motor? or are the two doesn't have to be related?

well - I've given you guys the instruction... what are you waiting for? go for it, take the plunge, and join the fun...

wait till you hear all the crap i had to go through in selling my bro in law's alfa romeo, you'd think twice before even wanting this... at the moment we are spending about $3400 to get the $6000 worth car back to RWC standard. beauty is only skin deep apparently is a true case.

sounds like suspension bushes.... could be anything... there's lots of bushes down there... (no pun intended)

Spotted 2 V35 coupes in Footscray yesterday. 1 Blue w/ black bonnets in d morning on way to work. 1 Silver on moore st in d evening on way home.

Glad you sorted it out! Glad to help :-) YEah the window regulator/frame needs to be exact, that's why I suggested to pop off the 3 round covers on the metal skin (2nd layer cover) so you can just loosen the glass bolt but not take the bolt off, and you can use it to manouver the frame into position without adding tension onto the whole thing. once the frame is in position and you've put the bolts on the frame bolted back to the 2nd layer metal cover then you retighten all the 3 glass bolts. wound it all up, until it all goes into the most upright position, press the door sensor so it 'seals' up, then release, push down the glass then retighten all the bolts that holds the glass, I found that solves the window glass seal problem. I have seen a few other V35 where the glass won't drop when door is open, my suspect now, after doing this, is the glass bolts were a bit loose, those cars may have had their power window motor previously replaced or refurbished before the owner bought it (it was a dealer's car).

There is already a company planning to do this... Go to www.jpnz.co.nz register your interest for english translation of V35 Skyline Repair Manual. They do have G35 in USA but it would be nice to have a right hand drive V35 service manual instead of the US version, particularly when working around the interior.

Sorry - I was referring to LOCK ACTUATOR. I had no idea of WINDOW MOTOR prices because my problem was the lock actuator not the power windows.

You have been taken for a ride. Call City Nissan Melbourne - I found their price is a lot cheaper. At least that's what they told me - $340 I think from memory. Google it.

will give Beninca a try... but being in the east and I'm in the west it'll take me some time to get there...

Thank's Chris... I still cannot crack out the fragile grip plastic cover (in Step 3) using flathead screwdriver cleanly, no matter what I did I still stuff up the bottom part of that plastic grip cover. It seems both mine (old scratched one, and current replacement one) are clipped very tight around the side catches. Lucky since it's at the bottom they're not very visible...

My DIY on window regulator/lock actuator removal is done! See here! Door Lock Actuator Removal - DIY NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS if you're not game enough with tools, potentially scratched skin, or if you are short tempered. I am not responsible for any direct/indirect damage or injury done to your car or any persons from following this DIY guide.

Step 29 - Metal door panel off - Now you can remove the 3 bolts that holds down the glass using 10mm socket. Step 30 - Pull out the glass and put somewhere safe! Make sure you don't put it somewhere where it would fall off or got accidentally step on or you dropped your tools on it... Don't break this! Step 31 - Remove the regulator frame assembly, these is kind of fiddly to put back on but with patience you can gently find its way back in later. NOTE: If you are only after removing the power window motor or window regulator, you do not need to continue. The rest of the steps are for people who need to get to the door lock actuator! Step 32 - Unclip the upper cable clip that holds the door lock harness wiring. The bottom one is optional, I found the top one is enough to give me some leeway to manouver the door lock actuator. Step 33 - Clip is off. Lock actuator wiring cable should now be loose and about. Step 34 - Look inside you'll spot like a hoop/loop. Unhook the loop from the hook. Step 35 - Now you need a Torx T30 * pattern screwdriver. Step 36 - Using the Torx tool, remove the screw that holds the door handle lock. Step 37 - Remove rubber cap on the door jamb. Step 38 - Locate another Torx screw, loosen. The design is made that this bolt won't drop, so just let it loosen. Step 39 - Wiggle the door handle finisher out of its place. Step 40 - Remove the door handle assembly from inside the door. When it's off carefully check that the nut where the first Torx screw bolts on to does not fall out. If it does, simply put this back into position. Note: This is the hex bolt I'm talking about - this can easily fall out into the door. Simply put it back in place. Step 41 - Upon removing, note where the door handle catches the assembly is, this is where it catches and when you put this back on, it needs to be as it was. Step 42 - Door handle assembly off. Step 43 - Exterior door handle can be left there hanging. Step 44 - Look behind the door handle assy and note where the handle cable hooks. Step 45 - Turn upwards to unhook it. Then remove the ball end. Step 46 - Door handle assy can now be removed and put away safely. Step 47 - Loosen 3 Torx bolt that holds down the lock actuator. Step 48 - Unplug the plastic mount Step 49 - Manouver the lock actuator out of the door shell. (It's a bit tight but possible) Step 50 - Using flat head screwdriver, lift up the hook on the harness plug and unplug. Replace lock actuator with new parts from Nissan, V35 Coupe Left side part no: 80501-AM81A, V35 Couple Right side part no: 80500-AM81A. Sedans - please ask I can find out for you from NISSAN FAST. Step 51 - ALL DONE! To put it all back together just reverse the steps one by one. Handy Tips: - Removing/Fitting Glass - It may help if you have 2 persons, one holding the glass while you adjust the position to the bolts, but not compulsory. I did it all by myself. - Adjusting the window regulator back to its position - It helps that you wind the window halfway up/down and after you hook up the glass bolts, just leave it not too tight, so you can use the window glass to move the frame around to get it aligned back to the bolt holes on the door. This require some tricky manouver but with patience can be done. IT helps to pop off some plastic cover as you can use this to align the glass bolts so you can tighten it later after the window frames are bolted back on. - Coupe window auto-seal. I found if window auto seal when door open/closes gets stuffed - it's usually because the window glass bolts aren't tight enough, so when the regulator winds the glass up to the top and drop down a bit, the glass doesn't drop back. Re-check the 3 glass bolts that they are tight but do not use powertool as you don't want to overtighten it causing the glass to crack. I found the door sensor switch (near the latch) is useful for me to test while the window is fully up, by pressing the switch on off and check if the glass moves up and down a bit for that sealing action.

Introduction I'm sure I am not the only one who has either power window motor / regulator and/or door lock problem on their V35. Although parts are relatively not too expensive from Nissan (e.g. $200-300ish) the thought of pulling apart such a nice car can be daunting to some... So I have problem with my passenger side door lock actuator and decided to tackle it myself. This DIY can be used for those who need to get onto their power window motor as well, although I didn't explain much about removing the power window motor from the regulator assy, but I'm sure if you've gotten that far, the rest should be easy breezy for you. What you need: Tools - Flathead screwdriver - 10mm Socket (A few variations where you can have long extension can be handy) - 12mm Socket - Torx T30 (star * shape) Parts - Genuine Nissan Door Lock Actuator. - V35 Coupe Left: 80501-AM81A - V35 Coupe Right: 80500-AM81A - V35 Sedan - please ask I can find out from NISSAN FAST Time Required - Approximately 4-5 hours. I got stuck a few times trying to remove the last bit near the handle part, and having lots of trial and error when putting it back on and realigning the regulator frame. If you have done this once I believe it can be re-done in 2-3 hours. Note: This DIY is written up to my best knowledge to include all steps necessary to get to the door lock actuator. If you are not game enough with handymen tools, or are short tempered, DO NOT try this by yourself and seek professional help and pay the money. I am not responsible for any damages and/or injuries to any vehicle, property, or any person resulting from following this DIY. Follow this at your own risk, these are not an easy peasy job - you have been warned! Steps: Step 1. Pop off power window panel using flathead screwdriver Step 2. Using flathead screwdriver, unclip switch harness Step 3 - Using flat head screwdriver pop bottom side of grip cover Step 4 - Pop rest of grip cover off, removing it from the catches on both sides gently - CAUTION these are fragile! Note: if you break it, turn over to see the replacement part number: Left Side Coupe: 80945-AM800. Right Side Coupe: 80944-AM800. Sedan (please ask - I can check via NISSAN FAST) Step 5 - Grip cover off, remove 2 bolts on the grip handle with 10mm socket. Note: you may find the bottom one is quite deep to reach, you can use a long phillips head or an extension to the 10mm socket. Step 6 - Using Flathead screwdriver, gently remove the square panel off the door latch Step 7 - Keep the cover somewhere safe Step 8 - Remove bolt using 10mm socket Step 9 - Look underneath door, insert flathead screwdriver and wedge it off, pop off the rest of the clips from underneath and side of door trim upwards. Step 10 - Lift up door trim, it should lift up easily Step 11 - Lift up and remove - gently towards the front near the mirror. Note: notice the catch there where you need to hook it back when you put the door trim back on Step 12 - To be able to remove door trim completely, unhook courtesy light (if you have the option installed) towards bottom of the trim Step 13 - courtesy light harness off (small plug) Step 14 - Look behind the door latch, note 2 cable catches, twist out the cable mount to dislodge. Step 15 - Unhook the cables from the latch mount Step 16 - Lock cables off - door trim can be removed completely. Step 17 - Door trim off - keep somewhere safe. Step 18 - Unhook power window harness using flathead screwdriver Step 19 - Remove bolts around the metal door panel: a) 12 x 10mm dark bolts that holds the metal door panel b) 3 x 10mm brass bolts that holds the power window motor in the middle c) 2 x 10mm brass bolts with washers that holds the window regulator upper part d) 2 x 12mm bolts with washers that holds the window regulator bottom part. Step 20 - pop the window regulator white plastic clip off (remember this when putting the metal door panel back on). This ensure the window regulator cable stay near the door panel and don't get caught in up/down movement of the window. Easiest to use flat head screwdriver to push both side of the clips and it can be pushed inside. Step 21 - From behind the door metal panel, pop off the 2 clips that holds the window motor harness. Step 22 - Locate on the front of the door, one big round plastic cap. Gently push from behind the door metal panel - this is hold by kind of sticky material. Step 23 - Keep cover somewhere safe Step 24 - Towards the back of the door, pop the other 2 offs near the bottom of the door Step 25 - You may want to reconnect the window motor harness and the power window switch temporarily. Wind down the window glass so the bolts align to the holes. Once it's aligned, disconnect the motor harness and window switch. Look through the hole and loosen the bolts using 10mm socket. I found when putting this back on together it's a good idea to have these bolts on but not tight, because it helps you to rejig the window regulator frame back to its original mount. Step 26 - Push window motor harness through the groumet. Remove the door metal panel (use flat head screwdriver to pry it open, metal door panel has kind of sticky material around it. The window regulator clip should also been popped off. Step 27 - Unclip the power window swith harness clip once metal door panel is off, because it's easier to push the clip from behind the metal panel. Step 28 - Gently pry the metal door panel (there's some kind of sticky material around it). Becareful with the lock cable at the back of the door when you pry it open, move it out of the way at the same time.

EUREKA! Don't worry about it... After thorough investigation managed to find the other hidden bolt ! I've swapped my lock actuator and it works great! Took me about 4-5 hours to get it all done. I will write up a DIY as I've taken lots and lots of photos... STAY TUNED!

I'm a bit stuck! at the last bit! I've taken the door shell everything out incl glass and remove the 3 bolts that holds down the lock actuator... found out that it's also attached to a catch behind the door handle and I can't remove this. is this require removal of door handle? anyone done this before please let me know... I found one * bolt behind the door handle but after I remove it - the door handle still won't budge/pop off from its shell.

This saga is back... my bro in law finishes his study and left behind his Alfa as he didn't advertise it early enough to sell it before he went back to Malaysia for good. The alfa has airbag warning light on at the dash - he said it's related to driver seat buckle... Who can fix this? Also has a Right Light Error and LEft Light Error, I suspect he change his headlights to HID, but he seems clueless over the phone. see pic attached of the mentioned error, and a youtube video of how it come up when car is on ignition... wonder how cheaply can this be fixed as we had a buyer offering $6k for the sorry thing WITH RWC to be supplied and those errors fixed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9RMKSGYrFI

spotted silver V35 coupe this morning around 8:15 on Eliz St turning into Lonsdale... Plate # W***** has spots on the rear bumper - are those dealer option reverse parking sensors?

saw silver V35 sedan - looks like 05+ model on Western Ring Road this afternoon about 4pm

nvm..

damn, what have they done?.... any pics of the setup Chris?