shaunvlc

mickya, cant believe you didnt hit me up about a bike. What type you want? Dont waste your time on an 85. they are for younger kids. Get atleast a 125, two stroke that is. Had mine for years and it never missed a beat. as for forums try these ones: WA Based try: www.fmxxx.com www.perthmx.com Australia wide try: www.fmxaustralia.com US try: www.freestylemtx.com www.thumpertalk.com

well said, its a good system for what i want. Does the job well. Have just noticed when sitting in the back all you can hear is bass. Not exactly comfortable for anyone but i suppose some cheaper speakers would do the job. Cheers guys.

my concerns are will the 600W amp be enough to successfully power the 4 component speakers? Powering the speakers is one thing making them sound good is another? Does the amp have enough power to power the 2 sets of splits well?

Hey guys, No longer have a skyline but know these boards are excellent for getting accurate non BS responses. I currently own a 2005 Holden Rodeo LT, I have the following system in the car: Pioneer DVD head unit - flip out 1 x 600W 4-channel pioneer amp - new type 1 x 1200W Pioneer monoblock amp for the sub - new type 1 x Pair of Pioneer Splits TS-D1720C's 1 x Kicker 12" Sub I want to know if i can run another set of TS-D1720C's off of the Pioneer 600W four channel amp without affecting the sound quality, volume and clarity? I love the setup I have but there is no point having spent all the money I have to be running distorted crappy stock speakers in the rear doors. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. And I also would like some advice on running a fold down screen for the rear seats as I have a daughter that gets very unhappy on long trips as she cant see the front screen. How are these mounted to the roof?

awesome thats exactly what i wanted to know. cheers guys. can close thread now.

Just curious how long do their packages normally take to arrive? Any help would be greatly appreciated... ORdering some wheels for my rodeo this week and would like them before my trip the following weekend. OR Does anyone know anybody selling any 6 stud 22's with decent tyres?

yeah but when your synchros are gone its a pain in the ass. cant shift into certain gears at higher rpm's. I mean its still very driveable but as they said you can replace the g/box with one from a wreckers but who knows if that doesn't have the same problems. Replacing synchro's will set you back about $1000 + labour.

you will need the following: R34 radiator support (makes installing the headlights easier) R34 headlights Conversion Fenders (your choice as to what style you want) R34 Bonnet (your choice as to what style you want) R34 bonnet hinges R34 Front bar (your choice as to what style you want) Few other bits and pieces are needed, but be aware that a lot of these kits do require a lot of body work to make them fit nicely and have no major gaps. Try Viva Garage too. There australian based so may bring the cost down considerably.

could be anything really. probably say your big end bearings are cactus. could also be excessive wear in the top end.

a blown intercooler pipe will not stop the car from running, it will only stall the car when under boost. I know this because it has happened to me numerous times before. The car will drive fine if you baby it. However, I think the problem with your situation is a bit more extensive than a loose cooler pipe. You going to have to search for any obvious problems and if you cant find anything then I would probably not stuff around and take it to a mechanic to get checked out.

heres mine, minus the grill, only reason being they suit a gtr badge and mine isnt a gtr. so i kept it off.

also one other thing. Im not sure what you would need to do with the breather hose that is attached to the stock intake. I'm not sure where you would re locate that, the plumb back pipe is obviously out of the equation now as you wont be using your BOV.

or you could do it the proper way which is easiest if you have a fmic. Relocate the afm to the I/C piping, probably just before the cross over pipe would work best and then that gives you more room and can make any sort of intake you would like as it only needs the pod on the end. I would be using a piece of 3" pipe with the pod on the end that way the pod will go straight onto the end of the pipe and all you will need is a 3" to 2 1/2" reducer (silicon hose) to attach the pipe to the front of the turbo. 2 1/2" pipe gives you that real high pitched annoying flutter/dose. 3" would be more mellow and less high pitched. Of course the bov has to be blocked/removed. It's a lot of stuffing around for a sound that isn't that great and get's very annoying. But, each to their own. good luck with it.

i have the same issue. but only because i removed my AFM to my intercooler piping to allow me to get a custom intake made up without the hassles of mounting an afm then filter. Im uncertain what the noise is but it is a slight howling sound, sounds like not enough air flow is making it to the intake or something. hard to explain.

mine does it. it is actually a plastic scraping sound. not rubber on metal. very obvious when you hear it. I assume it is the inner arch lining. Just take the wheel off and inspect the guard. It may have come loose. I got to do mine too.