Flux_nz

So is there anything to take home from it? Is it just a number that means nothing or does it explain something of my mods?

I wouldnt say that dude. Using FI (forced induction) as a replacement for turbo is a bad idea for starters though in terms of the community. Either way, I cant answer the question hah I would assume the same, bar the cams - someone else would need to confirm

Hey guys, I recently had a dyno done, and the print off states a Kg/m reading instead of Nm. It has 165.9 Kg/m So after some research found this equation for a calulation for it: Kilograms meters (Kg m) × 9.804 = Newton meters (Nm) (reference) So i chuck it in a calculator : 1617.66 Nm torque... That seems WAY too high... (rb20det) What am i doing wrong?

Are you using a decent quality line spanner/wrench?

I can testify to this, ive had my rb20 for 7 years on various mods, and never opened it up. Running a fair wack of boost (19psi), on a large turbo (gt3082r) it makes decent power. Sure its a bit laggy, but as said its made up for when it really picks up speed. 250+rwkw in a 32 is enough to keep up with most repowered rb25's - no problems thrashing 90% of cars from 0-100kph Even running a rb20de gearbox for the whole duration - its the torque that kills them not speed and since its laggy the box doesn't seem to mind one bit - even with some mid range clutch drops the box doesnt miss a beat. A lot of people underrate the abilities of the 20, and its cheaper gearbox - but for price in hand, its a good direction to take for those on a budget. That said, mines on 215,000 and still runs like it was 100,000 3.5k is not enough to make any real amount of power - almost better spending it on styling mods

Whats the specs of your rb20? - nice power figure there

And while you are at it, put a switch on the fuel pump relay too. Then hide it somewhere

Its a 16v5 rb20det turbo

Was looking at these mags: But they only come in 9inch wide - is that too wide for my r32 GTST at the front? - i dont want guard rub And would i be able to stretch 215/40/17's on them too? And lastly, my cars not low at all - so would that aid in being able to fit them? They are 17x9 - 30 offset Im not clewed up on mags, so it really is a guessing game for me...

Running the IBC, not MSIBC as stated Gain is set in PSI amounts, D/C is set in values between 1-100 or whatnot to open and close the solinoid at the set intervals. So in this case the D/C is a value of 62 giving 14psi, and gain is a value of '13' - 1psi away from the max boost under the given D/C (14psi) - so - DC = 62 Gain = 13 The IBC doesnt allow you to set the gain higher than the set boost limit and as a result you cant set the gain untill the D/C is done and set with a boost level. It only allows to be as close as 1psi to it, never past it and never the same - only ever below it. So any other ideas? How do i know if its closed loop?

Hey guys, I've had my car running a gt3040 + gizzmo ebc (non MS) for about a year now. Holds boost well, given the turbo is known for surging... While reading the forums i read up a bit on setting the gain closer to the boost level, bringing boost on faster etc. Seems simple enough, so i gave it a test - however find that it spikes really really bad! E.g if i set my boost to be 14psi its fine with gain at 0, but if i have gain at 13psi it spikes bad then jumps back and forward between about 12 and 16 psi What im looking to know is what gain people use on their gizzmo's - is it -1psi from the max boost as the manual states? - if so do you have this similar problem?

Bacon fat in the gearbox! - Or maybe some bananas? - does it smell real bad?

As the throttle is cable driven, one might assume it relates to that somehow, as with the throttle closed the engine wouldnt be able to rev to 8k. I'd check to see if the butterfly is sticking open or that the linkages are not tight. You can run the remap computer, but it might not run right, and might not be good for the engine. Best get it retuned. I doubt you can remove the z32 afm without a retune, it might run as per question 2, but it might be bad for the engine or not work at all

Dual BB GT30 on a rb20 sings like a bitch - 235kw at 15psi, just takes 4400rpm to hit it. Pants meter off the charts - hits 180 from 120 in seconds... Down low, the humble GTS keeps up - on boost its wild Nothing wrong with lag, worse is blowing your full load of spool too soon

Car: R32 coupe Problem: Window motor died, wont wind up or down I have a donor door, so a spare glass and motor to fix it with, but I cant figure out how to get the glass out - which i assume needs to be removed to get the window motor and bracket out. Does the window have to be down to have the whole assembly removed? As the window is neither right up or down, none of the window bolts are in a position to be removed. My cousin who's meant to be helping me suggested breaking the glass, since i have a spare. I'd sooner not, but as i cant move the window, or remove the motor, im not sure what else to do. The windows down about an inch at the top. I have the attached image to work off, but wanted some ideas from anyone who might have done this before

Only have the door card off As i cant get the window down im unsure what to do

Afternoon, Recently my window motor died, more so - while it was down about an inch. I have to keep it inside in case it rains, and cant park it outside - and for the life of me i cant figure out how to get the dam motor out! Its an r32 coupe, drivers side. I've checked the amp with a multimeter and its putting out 12v - and power is making it through the plug that connects to the motor. But as the motor is behind the door frame i cant actually figure out how to get it out? From what i can see i need to have the window down to remove some of the window bracket bolts, which i assume hold the motor in place. But as the window is up, and wont wind down (even used something to try pry the gearing with). Has anyone done this before? - i want to fix this ASAP.but am running out of ideas - a shops quoted 170 for parts an labour but i can get my own motor for cheap and im more than happy to fix it myself.

I have the same turbo on a rb20 and it makes boost at the same RPM as you explain, it sounds like something with your setup is creating the lag

I used that exact guide originally however found using 5r6 ohm resistors worked best next to the ballast pack. Then did away with that and the resistors altogether, my stock ECU has worked over a year with no resistors - go Nissan!

As long as you can set the impedance on your A/M ECU, it wont be an issue (you wont need a resistor pack)

Its becuase the impedance of the 2 injectors differs: RB20det is low impedance RB26 is high impedance The resistor pack lowers the impedance of the GTR injectors to match (as close as it can) that of the original injectors. However this shouldn't effect the firing rate, its more to save the injector drivers on the ECU from burning out. You don't need a resistor pack - i don't have one with my GTR injectors, but it would ensure the longevity of the ECU by having one.

The 2 hoses side by side, are for the bleed bolt on the top of the plenum to release air bubbles in the water lines. They can be joined together, should you need a front facing standard plenum, otherwise leave them be. The hose that runs down the side of the plenum is used to to warm up the throttlebody in the the event of a really cold day (not something you Aussie's see much of i imagine). This can be blocked off, although not needed unless you are going to front facing plenum too.

RB20det GT3082r GTR injectors Chipped ECU 229.6rwkw @ 15psi. Laggy as hell, but she sits down when the boost comes on

Anyone seen or used a manifold like the one pictured? Reckon there is room in a r32 bay for this kinda manifold?

Always do mine finger tight....