r3240sx

Sounds like rod knock to me. Forgive me for not reading through the thread, but have you confirmed that it's not rod knock? It could also be piston slap, I had a bad knock noise from what I thought was my head after going to the track once. I could have sworn it was coming from the lifters... I rebuild them, put them back in, and the noise remained. A couple weeks later the motor started smoking really bad, and I took it apart and found a destroyed piston, I'm pretty sure the noise I heard was piston slap. Good luck, hope you resolve it. -Max

You're right, I'm from the states, and Kyles manifolds are about half to one third the price of the Full race manifolds, even though they're only 2 states away from me. My 6 boost collector looks much better than that, and I dont know why you'd want a stainless manifold anyway, the heat expansion characteristic is definately not ideal for a component like a turbo manifold that sees at much heat as it does. I think the only advantage of stainless is that they're prettier, and maybe lighter? I'm not sure about that though.

Unfortunately I cant provide you guys with numbers yet, as my car was stolen shortly after I finished the turbo upgrade. The only thing I've had time to do is drive it and be happy I have it back, no tuning whatsoever. The impatient lot guy at my dealership wanted to make a preview video of my new setup however. Keep in mind, I'm not flat out in either of these clips... My wastegate pressure's set to .4 bar, boost controller turned off, and I've got a nasty misfire at around 5800 rpm. In both clips, I'm shifting at 5500, basically just so you can hear the car. Sort of bums me out that the camera distorts when I get on the throttle, doesnt sound near as good in the video as it does in person.. Hope you enjoy it anyway... -Max

Yes, My car was recovered!!! Where it was dumped, the neighbors said it had been sitting there since about the date it was stolen. I guess the crackhead just wanted a ride to the next town, or perhaps he got spooked when I saw him backing out my car, and chasing him a few blocks with a club made him decide it was best to just dump the car somewhere. Either way, God will make sure he gets whats coming to him, in the mean time, I got my baby back.. And she's in almost the same shape she was stolen in. Holy crap am I gratefull. Now for tuning and enjoying the fruits of my labor! -Max

Hey guys, I've been following this thread for quite a while now, and I finally have the chance at cracking 260rwkw. My setup is an oil line and a cold pipe away from running. Anyway, I hope you like it. Holset HX35 (8 blade, wastegate welded) Turbonetics Deltagate 6 boost Fwd mount twin scroll manifold 440cc's Constructive criticism or complements are appreciated! Thanks! -Max

Your best bet for response at that power level would be an hy35. Although probably not the most efficient setup, as the Hy only has a small 9cm housing. It will spool very fast and make the power you want, however, taking advantage of the larger 12cm divided housing will make the setup more efficient, slightly laggier, but with less restriction on the top end. I just had a 6boost divided manifold made, and I'm mating it to an 8 blade HX35w with a 12cm divided housing. This is on an rb20det with 256 cams. Just looking for 350whp. I'll post my results here when my car's on the road, to give more some real life results/examples. Edit: oh yeah. Find a turbo on ebay, I got my 8 blade Hx35w for $450 shipped, remanufactured.

My EGT's will go over 900C if I stay in the throttle long enough. I have a greddy EGT gauge, the probe is mounted about 3-4 inches from the head right after cylinder 6's runner. This pretty much freaks me out. It can only be retarded timing, or a lean condition contributing to the high EGT's right? I'd love to get this sorted out. Wont 950C+ start to melt cast pistons?

BTW, stock valve lift is either 7.5 or 7.8, I think they are 7.5 but I've seen both figures. Yours are 1mm higher than stock, and that will not require upgraded valve springs unless you rev it out pretty high. I have tomei 256/256 8.5/8.5's and I rev to 8, have been for a while now. Stock springs. I too am curious as to how the 272's work, as mine are pretty mild. Good luck -Max

There's a new one on the rb20 dyno thread with a t04z actually.. Stock block, Stock cams, pistons, rods, ebay turbo manifold. 28+ psi boost 370rwkw maxing out the speed on the dyno. He said power was still climbing. The RB20 is so strong for its size, it amazes me. -Max

A solenoid type boost controller made a world of difference for me. By the way, that much boost through that turbo WILL melt your pistons if you're only running stock injectors, please turn the boost down for now!

Also, HKS lists a T04S, T04R, and T04Z on their website. What kind of turbo is yours?

Holy crap, is it possible to get us any more details on the motor? Do you know if their's any head work done to the motor? Or perhaps the lift on the cams? What sort of exhaust/inlet manifolds? Very impressive, great work! -Max

It seems as though a .63 AR housing, or maybe even the .78 twin scroll would do wonders for this setup. Is there any plans to put a smaller exhaust housing on in the future? Great work

I hate to be an ass, but why are you posting this on a skyline forum?

You need to tune with any setup for it to work to its potential. I personally would add fuel somehow for safety, at the very least, with and rb25 turbo. When my roommate had his 260 whp tune, I believe he only had an SAFC. Seems like that or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be sufficient for a small turbo like that.

The 2510 is $1760, the 2530 is $2200 according to hksusa.com. I personally havent bought a second hand turbo... My roommate made 260 whp with an rb25 turbo that he bought for $150 usd. It seems people in the dyno threads are making an easy 200rwkw with an rb25 turbo, and hardly any more with the gt2530. All I'm saying is that I'll take the couple hundred rpm difference in spool, and 15-30 hp difference in the peak, and save $2000 for a worth while upgrade. I use a journal bearring garrett t3, 60 trim, .48 ar exhaust, .60 ar compressor thats rated at 350hp. I'd estimate I'm at 270 hp or so, at 16 psi. Judging by the specs listed on HKS's website, my turbo is similar sized to the gt2530. The lag is more than managable, full boost hitting by 4 or sooner. I bought this turbo new from a friend who never installed it, and if the deal wasnt there, I would have gone for a much larger t3/t04e. I'll take the extra lag for more power, because with the amount of power I'm making, I'm kind of dissapointed. If I were you, I'd put the rb25 turbo on and drive it for a while, and decide which sort of powerband you prefer. If you like torque, driveability, power in the low end, keep you stock cams, and use the rb25/gt2510/2530. If you prefer crazy horsepower, keep those 272's, save money, and plan a larger build, with a larger turbo.

Okay, I guess I just dont know what I'm talking about... All I was trying to say is, judging by how mild my 256's are, it seems like you could make the 272's with 8.5mm lift work well. Adjustable cam gears could help if you need to get rid of some overlap. In order to make any setup work properly, yes you do need a tune. I've never used 272's though, so I cant tell you from personal experience. For what its worth, if I could do it again I'd look for some 264's with an 8.8-9mm lift. It just doesnt seem like these 256's did much, we'll let the dyno tell though. He's right though, in order to notice a difference you're going to need a turbo thats capable of flowing more than a tiny 260-280 hp. GT2510's and gt2530's are so damn small, I really dont even know why people bother with those turbo's, when an rb25 turbo is what $2000 less? Lots of boost with a 2835 or a 3037 may make those cams usefull, other than that Nismoid is right, stock cams would be best. However, if you do upgrade turbos, the cams were free.. I'd do some experimenting before I decided to sell them.

I think You'll loose some low end using 272's over 256's, but with the same lift as the pon cams, these cams could be made to work. 8.5mm lift will not require any upgraded valve springs, lifters, or machine work. They will drop right in. However. You're idle might suck, and street performance will probably suffer. If I were you, I'd definately take the downsides to those cams for free, instead of spending $700 USD on a set of pon cams. I think if you had a set of adjustable cam gears, you could tune those cams well enough to work. I put my pon cams in, and was suprised to find there's not much difference between these and stock. I think I got more midrange, more noise everywhere, and it pulls pretty well to redline. I didnt notice any change in idle or street driveablility. If the 256's are this mild, I dont think you'll have a problem with 16 degrees more duration, seems like a waste to toss those in favor of 16 less degrees. Just my 2 cents.. Good luck

I've found that, on my RB20, if I unplug the boost controller and run wastegate boost, the turbo is incredibly unresponsive. It takes just as long, if not longer, to hit 13 psi as it does to hit 16 psi with the boost controller on. I never knew a good electronic boost controller would make lag so much more managable. Maybe try that instead of a bleeder valve? I ran one of those on the stock turbo and it didnt do anything but make lag worse. Good luck

What is the lift on the cams? That is what will determine whether or not you need to do machine work, and maybe solid lifters/new valve springs. I bought tomei 256's w/8.5mm lift and they dropped right in.

Your stock rb20 turbo and stock rb25 turbo's have ceramic turbine wheels that dont hold together long with over 14 psi of boost. Your modified "High Flow" from slide or GCG or whatever, replaces these with steel wheels for durability. I'd suggest adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to that list, if you're going to keep stock injectors. Here in the states they're $120 or so for a Nismo, thats what I have and I like it. Good luck -Max

OK, so I dont quite have 260kw yet, but I thought I'd share about my motor while you're on that subject. I'd been running around on about 270 hp with my RB20 which was probably a bit too lean. Ran strong for a few months with 16 psi, took it to the track and blew up on the first run. 1st and second gear felt like a bat out of hell! I felt a surge of power after hooking 3rd gear and babied it across the line for a 14.0 @105mph. Popped the hood, found had blown out the PCV considerably, and I had audible piston slap. I drove the car for another 2-3 months before I had another motor lined up. When it was time to kill the car, I raced a buddy's 88 civic hatch with a b18. I got about 2-3 cars ahead (100mph or so) and looked back only to see a giant cloud of smoke left behind. Parked it a mile later and tore out the motor. I think the moral of the story is the RB20 is stout as hell, and no matter how low the compression, it has too much pride to let itself loose to a honda. I have a new motor in my car now, and a few mods that I'm just hoping to get over the 300whp mark with Garrett t3, .60ar compressor .48 ar turbine 60 trim tomei poncams mild port/polish supra 440cc's/nismo FPR reflashed ECU SAFC I'll post a dyno graph asap, so I can actually contribute something of worth to this thread! -Max

Okay guys, I've fixed the problem. I must have checked for boost leaks a hundred times, and ruled them out because my intercooler couplers were tight, and no holes to be found, and it held boost (no bleeding) in the high rpms. However, I'm running a blow through maf and a maf adapter is bolted to the maf housing to allow you to run a coupler to another pipe. What had happened was a bolt on the bottom had loosened up, and allowed air to leak in under partial throttle.. I dont know why it made the car run lean, as it was still before the sensor, but tighening this adapter fixed the problem. Holds boost fine now, partial throttle is still a little sputtery and rich, and WOT brings the A/F ratio around 10.5:1. A buddy of mine here in the states made me a conservative rom tune to compensate for the larger injectors, and remapped timing (again, very conservatively) for the extra boost, based on his tune when he ran these injectors. He also raised the rev limit to 8200rpm. Out of curiosity, what would you all suggest as a safe shifting point with a stock valvetrain? I'd imagine everything being stock, the motor could rev to 8000 provided it keeps making power. What concerns do I have at that rpm? Do any components have tendency to fail with only a 500rpm increase? Everything in this motor seems to be built pretty stout, except perhaps the oil pump drive.. I may not even make more power past 7500, only a dyno run will tell.. Major mods include Garrett T3 turbo (probably equiv to a large Hi flow) tomei 256 cams 8.5mm lift. ported exhaust side of the head. Thanks for the help guys. -Max

My questions have still not even been touched. Seems the bandwagon answer is its bad, followed by mockery, with no evidence, or constructive criticism. BTW thanks for the bash about blowing a motor, we all make mistakes, wtf does that give you the right to mock me like that? Okay, forget it, too much to ask for someone to read a whole post before responding.. 2 posts were just claims without a supporting arguement.. and to those who gave me suggestions, thanks for helping. AFM is clean, yeah I checked that. Walbro was purchased from a reputable shop here in the states, I'll look into wiring the pump directly.. I'm starting to think there may be a problem with my TPS where at a certain throttle position the ECU may not see the TPS and cut fuel.. I have yet to test this, but I dont think it will be very hard to diagnose... Any thoughts? If the problem was running the factory computer with the larger injectors, then this would be the opposite problem.. That doesnt make any sense at all guys, and if I'm wrong, tell me WHY! I know I need a reflash, and it will come with time and money... But a reflash will not fix this if my theory is correct, so please, be my guest, and prove me wrong. Thanks -Max

I know I would benefit from an ecu, but I'm not looking for what my car would benefit from at the moment. I am however looking for something that my motor needs fixed to not melt itself or detonate. This is a very light load area of the rev range, how does this happen? I want to know why, or what to check, what to look for, not all the stuff my car could use. It makes no sense having large injectors, that are only slightly corrected by a signal modifier, leaning out in excess of 17+:1 because I have a stock computer. That sounds so opposite of itself. And if it is true, I would like to know why... Not "might as well not be cheap and get an ecu..", because I know that, but I'm not going to spend thousands on a guess, and hope it fixes the problem. Thanks for the reply.. -Max