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Factory 5

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  1. How much did it cost you?
  2. They were only 188cc or so (stock) I was useing 270cc (browntop VL turbo) for turbo application. yours didnt leak, they were used for about a week then I put in the VL turbo ones... which are the leaky buggers. Will be getting some new screws to hold the next batch down (tested and cleaned and NOT leaking!) Probable will use RB type o-ring injectors with 7.5mm hose forced over, with a good clamp to keep it together
  3. Car is off the road agan. Injectors leak (like ooze constantly when there is fuel pressure) very pissed off. now i gotta waste more time re-doing the rail and hoses AND getting this oher set sorted out. If this next set leaks, I will be even more discouraged, and wont hae time to intercool, or do all the other bits I wanted to have done for Skynats..... most fking annoying to say the least onegood thng is I have sold a few bits here and there to fund the extra parts. sadly my 16x7's are gone too-very sad .... Now temporarily replaced with Z31 alloys with federal tyres, until aonther option is sourced. tick tock tock tock
  4. farking typical... another thread gone to shit again....
  5. It has some room, but 'very far' it cant. It can be made into 2.9 litres quite easily on the factory crank. just needs a careful selection of rod and pistons. I have heard from many sources that once its bored out, it dosent like boost (so really boring is only an option for non-turbo setups) excellent drivability though. instant throttle response.
  6. Perfect. Pretty much spot-on with what I would be doing (if I could find an L28 in Canberra!)
  7. all I meant was that for the same price to get the L6 all jizzed up for drifting (bouncing of rev limiter all the time) you could get an RB doing the same, if not better for alot less. head porting and bigger valves would cost a tad under $1000 here in Oz. (I know as Ive looked into it.) An rb can be had for $1000 complete with gearbox. it is a bit of an unfair comparison though....
  8. Really the main concern was that the HR30 never came out intercooled, so its yet another thing to add to the engineers... yay Plus the time constraints. and the dollars. 10 days is too long to wait for USDM J-pipe. plus there is no guarantee it will fit the RB20det turbo and the custom outlet I got made. Also when I put on the R34 Neo turbo, this setup can be easily adapted (just realign a few joiners) well i just blew %30 of my budget on it so I may as well go ahead with it. as for making it all fit.... it is VERY tight with the aricon gear, the trans cooler, the aircon fan which will be put to rather good use i'll get some pics once sorted. one thing for sure, this stainless steel is farking hard to cut... with a hacksaw it has taken me 30 min for one cut plus 3 blades!
  9. Well I thougth that if in the future I could re-use the parts on a bigger setup, like VG30DET running 18psi and Wolf 3d, in my 300zx-Z31. The clamps are tawainese still, but better than the screw type things for radiator hoses....
  10. Ok, I just picked up 2m of 63mm stainless (2.5 inch) for $80, 5 x silicone bends/joiners at $20 each, and 11 x hose clamps (heavey duty t-bolt style) for $60 the XR6 intercooler was $80 on fleabay 2 years ago so parts alone for this exercise is now $320 (havent included BOV and fittings yet) for the quality of parts this is fair I think. I could of gone cheap shitty stuff and likely halved the price, but if its worth doing, do it well. cheers for the responses. along with the semi-stupid articles on autospeed, I have decided to intercool it. IF i do really run out of time, the parts here will be able to be adapted to a 'J-pipe' from turbo to throttle body. I would say that intercooling will be the last on the list. (exhaust/fuel/oil number one priority)
  11. Just at the final stages of the L24et project. Im running out of time. And with basically 5 weekends left to work on it, there is ALOT to do. Can I ask, what are the benefits of intercooling a low psi, medium power output engine? Im only looking at 6 to 8psi (due to the shit injectors) and wouldnt see more than 130 or so kW. I am in 2 minds whether to just route the piping from turbo outlet straight into the throttle body (would have instant response, as the pipes etc would only be 80cm or so long) OR Get holes cut in my radiator support panel, the mounting tabs on the headlight trimmed, and the XR6 intercooler mounted in the front. Downside to this is its more of an attraction to anyone inspecting under my bonnet, plus the holes in the metal work, and also the front grille will need noticable trimming This would cool very effectively too, probably enable me to run more boost, and less prone to detonation when summer comes along with the 35 degree temps.... Another option I have been given(by a reputable workshop involved in racing/rally since the 1980's) is water injection, with a small brass nozzle and high pressure pump. Plus a hobbs switch to come on at 3 to 4 psi. THey say this setup was used in some safari rally in high temps etc and worked flawlessly. (bonus is it doesnt require hole cutting or further bastardisation of the panels and trim) Just thought to read a few opinions.... Post away, please just one per person, no slanging matches etc.
  12. Exact same problem happened today on my mates R31. its stuck out on a work site in Melb, he has to get it towed. no fuel pump priming or anything... seems like a common thig on R31forum
  13. Dont do this in an enclosed garage either... exhaust poisoning anyone??? But seriously, there are some people out there who should not be near tools, if they can handle them selves, and are farily good with this kind of thing... BIG dollar savings to be had. I have done this in the past, just as long as you use common sense you should be ok. I also had a 2m kilswitch line rigged up too, so if you need to... hit the big red button. everything will stop rotating soon enough (especially in gear) 2nd person nearby is a VERY good idea aswell.
  14. fwoar! i need a kleenex
  15. CONGRATS!
  16. Just needs an engineer to certify that the modification is OK.... normally LESS than $1000 (depending if there is anything to get 'fixed')
  17. as i have found out lately, theres a few R34 Gt-T out there for the $12k mark!
  18. Does it have a model number or something?? or what year RB25? (turbo or what?)
  19. WOW good price! wow wow mmmm....... Let me think....
  20. im keen! passenger-ing a possibility anyone?
  21. I had some tasteh bacon & eggs... all better now! Uber fast metabolism FTW!!
  22. i has sober up befor dirving then come asn say hi. man its harsd to type! itls like im ffrom nigersa scammingyour asses
  23. huppi burdea! celebratuins
  24. Been busy, work flat out, visiting family and all that stuff. Microtech Lt-4 up and running as of 1:30am thismorning. -2 deg outside too. It has the Turbo map loaded still, runs surprisingly well. On the turbo setup the dissy will be locked (no advance) Roars alot more, without the bitch AFM and all that rubbish on the intake it just growls away. Cold start is perfect, idles at 1100rpm and gradually comes down to 850rpm over 30 sec or so. Runs heaps smoother than the factory ECU. Next on the list is the bloody heater core AGAIN (2nd one. they just break too easily). Im not replacing or fixing this time, just bunging in a coil of copper pipe in the fan ducting, and having a 'tap' like on the old holdens/fords. Still to put in the reco Rad and new hoses. Auto trans cooler and new lines aswell. (Reco Rad is from Manual, does not have the trans cooler in-built)
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