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Factory 5

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Everything posted by Factory 5

  1. I aggree with above, tune, exhaust, cam, intake, the RB30e can holler along quite nicely. Reliable as all fark too. If I pop my 3 spare L series engines (sure it may take a few years), Im either going RB30e or VG30det.
  2. I got some superpro castor bushes in mine just before xmas, made a heck of a difference.
  3. Any interest or comments welcome! Am I asking too much? Are they ugly? Are you a poof?
  4. Can someone confirm the date for me???
  5. Yep, I saw it in yaralumla iga, tuggers bp, and a few other spots... luv the burgandy R32 & the 4 door blue 32....
  6. This thread will be updated with a few goodies Im hoping to sell to finish the skyline. The fronts in this pic are pre-refurb. Just a coat of rattlecan black. Looks tonnes better now with the pro sandblast and powdercoat. http://s330.photobucket.com/albums/l435/MR30_SKYLINE/ Plenty of pics in my on-line album. Will add some current ones soon. History: Originally swapped an HR30 5 speed gearbox from an L20et setup I bought 3 years ago, for these 16x7 rims They were painted silver with a polished lip, needed some serious TLC I got them sandblasted by a pro, and then powdercoated high-gloss black by an engineering company. Total cost was $320 ($80 per rim) They are balanced well, weights on inner side For a bit of fruit, I added the yellow edging on the outer lip. (easily removed, its stick-on) I planned to get the lip re-polished but havent gotten around to it... ever. As for the brand I cant remember, the sticker was faded but they were definitly from Japan, brand name started with 'A' Reason for selling: To fund my build-up/entry to be ready for SkyNats. I do have a set of mint R30 Ti 15x6's that I will be useing instead, tyres are cheaper and the Ti rims are f'ing light for what they are. The tyres on the 16's will need replacing soon. the fronts are 225/50/R16, dunlop bathurst. quite worn. not legal. the rears are bridgestone turanza 225/55/R16, and would be just on legal in my eyes. Quite a good tread too, I have hardly ever broken traction with them , simply cos I cant! Well with 53kW at the rears what do you expect. Price: As-is Im looking for $400 or best offer. Shipping extra. I can arrange delivery to Sydney and Melbourne quite easily. Includes 3 x Center caps, the 4th one never owned. Could replace the lot with a set from local wheel mart. Contact details, if you want pics, send a request to [email protected] (my spam email address...) But there are plenty on the album and I will be getting some recent ones this week. PM's will be responded to. If you have my nember then good for you! Give me an sms. Dont pickup much as Im mega busy.
  7. maybe we should start a sticky thread on parts forsale/ I got a tonne of stuff to sell off to fund the car prep for skynats, all to a good cause!
  8. I wont be in melb for another month or two. Cant put any definite times on it just yet. The engine is a prime candidated for a datto though.... EFI I think I'll give it a miss this time, I got spares comeing out my arse. Plus its too complicated. woulda still liked the headlight covers and window switches, and air con switch (mine fell to bits)
  9. NIIIICE!!!!! free stuff is always a winner!
  10. I dont think i'd drive it back here... Just find a place to put it and strip bits from it (like a warehouse or workshop parking area)
  11. I know of a few in newzealand, but i got no idea on what the process is...
  12. yeah why not....
  13. For a good one i see them go for $800 to $1000
  14. oooohhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  15. I was wondering the exact same point. Im pretty sure it MUST have an engineers report, but if thats been done is another question. Excellent buy, couldnt build one for that price....
  16. Might see if I can check it out this week... in melb for 2 days but will get in contact....
  17. I know its a long shot, but Im on a parts pickup run to Melbourne at the crack of dawn Monday morning, My mate down in Melb needs a 5 speed, as the one he has is full of metal shavings. The car is in beaut nic, he needs so sell it and despratly needs another gearbox. Does anyone out there have a wreck or spare 5 speed for sale????? He is able to pay.... just not the $400 for a rattty box of crap so commonly seen on r31club...
  18. oh oh so tempting... My R30 is going to be offline for a little while to 'service' the engine, apparently the engine exhaust extraction fan wasnt fitted when it came to australia so I need to bolt it all on.... how many km? will it pass rego inspection without problems? (i guess exhaust gasket...) tyres good? any interior & engine bay pics?? I have a spare engine that has an extra set of camshafts AND a single exhaust extraction fan... VG30det FTW!
  19. lol! 30cm... thats about the same length as a cat convertor eh!
  20. Need the straight 3 bolt turbo OUTLET from the neo stag.... I have seen plenty of the 90deg ones on ebay, but not what I need. please help! will pay shipping located in a canberra
  21. I reckon do gunmetal all over, then put them on 'a rotating hub for polishing purposes' and buff of the paint in the high spots like the spokes and rim most alloys have a real thin clear coat on them to stop corrosion, or just polish regularly. If it goes yellow it sounds like varnish or some uv sensitive polyester.... not good!
  22. Ive got the Australian Delivered MR30 diagram, might help you? Will scan it in teh next few days Any more details on your DR30?? Much fun to be had...
  23. For a bog stock L24 2.25 is on the large side. If your not really planning any other supporting mods it may be too much. If turbo or nics aftremarket carbs/ecu injection is an option in the future then cool... Have you asked for the same quote on 2 inch? In my old sigma from years ago, it had a 2.6 4cyl, worked. when i went to 2 inch it lost some torque in the bottom end, but revvvvvvvvved like a motorbike.... 2.25 on a 2.4 engine is 'just' pushing the limits i think... and the manifold bolts, well what i have done (on 4 different L24's) is just as i pull up in the garage, pop the hood, let it cool for a little bit, and while its still hot, spray a heap of wd40 on the studs/nuts. then leave it for an hour, then do the WD40 again but cold this time... and let it soak until the next day. they come undone so much easier then! Dont use air tools, its why 99% of exhaust shops snap them, too much too quick. if your having trouble undoing the nuts, get an extension for the socket set... makes it SO much easier. can be done in under an hour instead of 3 or 4! (no joke, its fekking TRICKY) oh and pm send about extractors....
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