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Factory 5

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  1. ah ok... i want to modify my stock lower control arms, as they are one piece and cant replace just the ball joints which are worn, making my steering very very soggy. ive heard there is a way of getting the old ball joint off (angle grinder i guess) and drilling a new hole, then pressing in a new ball joint! (thats coming from my uncle, who is crazy...) i guess i was getting thing all mixed up before...
  2. would i be able to bring a set of standard lower control arms around to your 'handy' mate??? what tie rod ends should i be looking out for??? im wanting to use stock items to get the roadworthy cert. , then maybe later on go the KYB/GAB/Koni set-up sounds like youve done some speccy stuff!! i will confirm when im in your area.... wont be for a lil while yet.
  3. CAN YOU DO A WRITE UP??? and some pics?? im interested too....
  4. you can use R31 standard springs and struts in the rear, this will be about 30mm lower thatn standard R30. (im sure this applies for DR30 too.) S13 coilovers go well in the front too.... KYB make struts for the front, i thing there is an 'orange' set and a 'red' set.... the orange ones are the ones to look for. its also pretty easy to get custom spriings made too, just specify the loads and height etc.... probably alot cheaper than fancy brand names... there is a thread with lots more detail in this foruim section, just gotta search mate!!!
  5. i'll take it... will pickup tonight or tomorrow (whichever suits you) PM sent
  6. I will see what i can do,as i will ba doing a manual conversion down the track... maybe a R31 or 240k switch will fit?? I do know of one spare switch, i will ask its owner if it will be available
  7. Hey there.... parts are available, PM sent
  8. Hey works 510...A mate from NSW is interested in the con-rods, so if you are actually after them let me know eh! Apparently there are 2 x types of L20et, early type have strong as F!#&*K internals, and this is an early type!!(1981) the cam are different over the years too, so that MAY go as well, just need to inspect which one it is (self oiling or oil squirters...)
  9. mounts & x-members and tailshaft ???(what have you actually got?) general engine bay... cheers mate!
  10. Howdy from Melbourne... C211's are pretty rare here, infact im not too sure ive ever seen one..... good luck with the restoration! atleast all the good parts are on your doorstep! cheers
  11. any update on this??? and RSX84, are you able to get some Pics of your current setup? and ehat was the 'non cuting' solution for tailshaft?? did you use one from a old bluebird??
  12. the OZDAT classifieds have the all the time, usually go for $150 a set.... I have a set of 15 inch R30 Ti rims, look sweet as, ( i like em more than TRX Bluey rims anyways) pm sent (if interested) cheers P.S. The front rims have some small arse tyres on em, came like that... (rear
  13. are you for real?? What are you going to do with them? throw them at trains or busses? kill chickens? smash walnuts???!!!
  14. i got desparate and offered a good price to the L20et owner... SCORE!!! Will have a full L20et setup (everything under the bonnet) in 2 weeks or so! only thing mising is power steering pump, and the gay lil turbo... so i will be stripping it down, getting ready to build my L24et! The plan is: Get the car roadworthy and get registered ( brakes, exhaust, tyres, wiper blades etc.) Get all the parts ready to go into car Manifolds, injectors piping turbo ECU/loom/plugs blah blah get engine out, and start the transplanting... WooHoo!!! Now if anyone needs a L20et block, head, and other shit that is seemingly useless to me, let me know.... i wont get much for them from the metal recyclers! The gearbox is already spoken for...
  15. i have one int good nic, but the cat knocked a oil filter off the shelf and onto the compressor wheel.... smished up one blade, it bugs me thinking it will die and kill the engine im building ( taken 10 months so far...) can i have a compressor wheel??? (what you after)
  16. Anyone got any L20et parts out there??? I missed out on a complete engine on ebay (went for $300) Its really starting to piss me off how hard it is to get stuff for this project.... Rb20det is starting to look good, even though a L24et has more 'uniqueness' etc, atleast theres 1000's of parts available for RB's, not 10 or 20 parts for L's.... Ah f*k i guess im just young and impatient, i see the old girl sitting there everyday gathering dust and huge muther funken huntsman spiders... iv had enough of driving the shitty pintara everywhere too! (uses too much fuel for a daily)
  17. for sure! $50 is what i was thinking of, but wasnt sure if it was too much or not... you can email me on <removed by mods> I go to Brissy tomorrow, and will be back monday night. The car is at a bodyshop in bayswater, and it will be getting towed back to my place after easter sometime. (or i will strip it there and get it towd to wreckers from panelshop)
  18. Have you driven it?? If you like it, and always wanted one now is your chance... if the price is right mate go for it.... if the engine shits itself there are plenty of options, and yes parts are getting harder to get, you just need to know where to go. I have an old friend who used to race DR30's, and he sold everyhing, and recently found a complete Fj20DET in his back workshop, its for sale at $1500 I would buy the DR30, buy the spare engine, rebuild the spare while you get used to the steering etc on the DR, then do a transplant, you will then have a DR with a reliable and fkn solid as FJ up front, and a spare FJ you can even rebuild that too! If you like you can PM me the price. I saw a MINT one not too long ago, $8000 (it has been around a while) it took the guy like a year to sel it, then the kid who did buy it drifted it for a bit then got sick of it then sold it again.... they not a drift car by the way
  19. The front motors are working, havent really looked at the rears ( they could work...) The center console switches work for the front, but not on the rears, the rear switches on the rear passenger doors are rat$hit
  20. Hi again... The white wreck is needing to be permanantly removed pretty soon, so are there any last takers on parts?? theres alot been stripped so far, but let me know if theres anything you are interested in... Its off to the wreckers soon....
  21. Where are you located? Have cash waiting, need full package, gearbox not needed. cheers Andrew pm me ok!
  22. im with 66yo! Its not junk until its crushed into a 1m cube... but dude get a picture up, we might be able to sort something out... It depends on what look you are after. either the tuff arse '80s skyline, the classic Nissan look, or the ricer punk racer boy R31 rear shock absorbers and springs will fit the rear end, and will lower it about 30mm ( im pretty sure on this one) what wheels do you have?? some R31 Ti rims would look ok if they are all polished up etc. My brother got my FWD Ti pintara rims ( 15 inch solid alloy with slots ) and put the car up on stands, started engine, put into gear and the fronts start spining, (VERY dangerous), he then got sandpaper of various grades and sanded off the clearcoat, then polished up the rims so well they were mirror, looked like chrome! looked shmic... seat covers always look better than crappy stained seats, Take out the grille and respray in matt black, a few coats looks good, go to wreckers , get some nissan bages, polish em up and put on body of car, or debadge the rear end, make sure no glue left... get detailer to cut & polish up the paintwork, about $100 but worth it. ( & keep it clean too!) tyre shine on external plastic bumpers, mirrors and window trims brings the whole appearance up a heap. OLD auto trans fluid is also a good one for window trims. A chrome exhaust tip new pinstriping (from auto barn) ( electricians tape is a cheap arse TEMPORARY solution. just to see what its like before you buy the good stuff. elec tape peeles and fades in the sun)
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