mattsr31

thanks is there any way to if the stuffed

right whats what on a rb25det u have 2 sensors in the block 1 to the rear of block and 1 to the front of block are they both knock sensors or is 1 oil if so which 1 or is the oil sensor the 1 the plugs in next to the oil filter

where r u mate

sold

if the block was getting air in it from say a crack behind a bolt so not much but would it suck air into the block and some how stop oil from flowing. so dose the block area have to be pressureised to pump oil

pics of exhuast and are head lights s1 or s2 if s2 i take them

mate how do they fit on a r33 give you 400

yeah thats why i have not started it again but where do i start.

ok well when i stopped it i open oil filler cap and put my finger in to the cam and it was f@#k all oil on it

i had the sump off but im sure i sealed and tightned it up. after i ran it i checked oil right away it was not airrated.. the wired thing is right when the car start for the first time it was not doing it even when i got it running preety good left it for a couple mins and only turned it off to get timing right so its only just strated doing it can timing being out make things like this happen or not really. is there a easy way to check if it has oil pressure.. whats flux capacitor

so the knocking after about 15sec starts and by time i turn it off its getting a little loud would most likey be oil pump not working right is there anyway to check the pump ect

yeah its gets loud after running for like 15 secs now so not running it again which 1 is oil pressure sender is it the front 1 in the block or what and will that stop pump from working

got it running ok now rmp 900 timing 17 but dont think oil pump is working how di i tell this

it has to be the cas i got it running shit and played for abit and got it a little better but not great so kept playing and now it wont go how do u check if cas is in the right spot as in the marks on the back to they mean anything if so which needs to be lined up

have tried move cas and even putting another 1 in but still the same what on the loom want make this happen but what volts should alt put out and why would that course this the things is all the bolt on's are off the motor that was running in car before its was putted out

hi all, as title says i did a engine change in my r33 & now it wont go, the engine mods are as follows: hks 3037s greddy intake q45 throttle body z32 afm 660cc injectors 550hp fuel pump fuel reg apex pfc intercooler etc. Okay, the symptoms are as follows: I am getting plenty of fuel, spark and battery power but; the engine turns over as it should for approx 6 revs and then turns over very slowly (as if there was too much compression) for one rev, then repeats, also the lights on dash and fc dim when this happens. when the front 3 coil packs are removed and 1 spark plug is out, it tries to fire but still wont go. I have checked all earth straps and all connections are tight, the car used to be an auto but is now a 5spd but was already like the before changeing engine but i changed the loom that runs down the side to starter alt and power from auto to manual as the auto 1 in it had broken clips, the timing has been checked and re-checked, and I just can't work it out...... PLEASE HELP ME!?!?!?! Matt.

cool thanks

give u 500 posted to vic mate

pm sent

hey all just want to no if there is like i cerclip in the block holding it in or can i be just pulled out as in want to change it cos its bent as

hey all got a R33 GTR rear wing & boot in s2 sliver in good nick dont no if its a gen gtr 1 but it is adjusterable with badges wing and boot $250 garnish $80 will post pics if needed in next few days pick up bendigo

mate i dont no 500 plus rego but u would have to pay up front what ever it cost so best off u doing it buy a permit and drive it

still for sale need this gone asap

need it gone $150 posted

need it gone $90 posted