stingray

I've already got the install instructions, however the picture shown is for an RB25DET and with my RB20DET it's missing that engine mount for the piping bracket.

I've just taken a second look and now I realised the piping does line up to for the new hole under the battery. However I still don't know how to mount the bracket of the cross overpipe onto the engine.

Hi, Anyone installed one of these kits before on an R32? Is there a difference between the R33 and R32 kits? Because the piping I recieved looks identical to the R33 kit shown on there webpage http://www.justjap.com/forumcoolerkitspecial.htm I'm only asking this because the piping doesn't lign up. On the passenger side, the existing two holes for the factory cooler I had to cut out so the pipe would lign up with the intake side of the intercooler. Now the main problem I face is the new hole I need to cut directly under the battery. I trial fitted the pipe to measure up where I need to cut this hole and it seems way too far back towards the wheel arch. I cannot cut there because there are aircon pipes and wires on the otherside. I've got a feeling that I might have recieved the wrong piping kit because the R32 kit on there webpage has a different piping design. Attached is a picture of the factory intercooler holes that I cut out to make one long one. Was this needed by anyone installing this kit?

Hi, Will you seperate the driver's side reverse light?

Just an exhaust, the auction has ended a week ago and I still haven't been able to pay him.

Does anyone know if something has happened to Zac? I haven't been able to contact him by email for a week now. I've won an item but haven't been able to pay him fully. Just a bit concerned that something might be wrong. It's a bit odd, usually he replies within a day to my emails. I've tried posting on the slidewize forum under the classified section, but the last time he was active here was the 7th Dec.

What brand tires are on the TRG rims and what's the offset?

Yeah I was thinking of using one of these, but I don't need the factory gauge and I thought I might just save the $39 and install it in factory location. I've taken the factory sender off, looked at the threads and they look identical to aftermarket one. I don't know how to measure the threads but when I attempted to screw the new one back onto the engine block it got really tight. I was afraid to screw it in anymore incase I thread it. The thing is the thread adaptor piece that came with the autogauge sender screwed onto the factory one easily. In fact it was easier to screw it onto the factory sender than the autogauge one. Does that mean the threads are the same if the adaptor fits both senders?

Here's the installation manual, figure 6. I don't think the gauge has any memory features so it won't be needing a 12V constant. I'm just going to try and connect both red cables to the 12V ignition ON. That way it should only turn on when the key is in the ON position.

Hi, I've got an Autogauge smoke series electrical oil pressure gauge. The wiring diagram shows the oil sender unit with 1 connector only and the green wire connects to this. The gauge has 2 black wires and both of them are drawn connected to ground. However the sender supplied has two connectors and one of them has the marking 'G'. I'm guessing this would be for the second ground wire comming out of the guage but my question is does it matter which black wire, out off the two, that I use to connect to the sender unit? One wire is thicker than the other if that matters. Also with the 12V live wire there's two red cables. Again one thicker than the other. I'm assuming the thicker one is the 12V constant and the thinner one is the 12V accessories. Correct me if I'm wrong. Ray

Hey guys, I bought one of these aswell and I've just recieved it today. Did he change the design of it or something? It's missing that little hole on the top of it.

Is this the factory option one or aftermarket? Ray

I just jacked up the front of the car using the suspension cross member and I placed the stands on the inner chassis rail. I just read this post and it says to place the stands on the outer sill. It didn't seem to bend the chassis rail or anything, can I continue using this as the stand points because to me it looked fine? But now I have to jack up the rear and the chassis rail seems very thin at the back. Other than the sill can someone draw on the picture where I can place the stands on the rear suspension component? Otherwise I will try to cut out a piece of wood with a slot to place on the factory jacking points. Thankyou

Just curious with the electric mirror switch on the driver's door. It looks different. I've never seen that type, it looks like it's got a switch for heated mirrors. Did they have heated mirrors as an option?

Hi I've recently replaced the window regulator on my R32. That was well and easy, but getting the window in the right position is very annoying. I've been trying to adjust it for 2 days now and I still can't get it to operate correctly. I've even drained the battery playing around with the window that much. The problem is that when I use the autowind up it get's caught and it stops before it fully closes. If I open the door and autowind up it closes all the way. Then I close the door and it looks like is seals tightly, but water still gets in at the mirror section. I've adjusted over and over and it seems that I can't improve it anymore. I've pretty much given up on it now. Anyone know where I can take it to to get it adjusted properly? Ray

Do you have the drivers side window mechanism/rails minus the motor?

Hi Is there any scratches on the drivers side window. Also do you have the driver's side window mechanisim/rails minus the motor? Ray

I've got it out now. First you have to remove the window then it's easy to take out the rail and motor with plenty of room. Does anyone know where I can take this assembly to get the cable replaced? Does O'Brien repair these?

Anyone know how to remove the assembly. I've taken the 4 bolts of and tried lifting the whole thing out including the window, but there's not enough clearance at the top for it to come out. Do I need to remove the window first? I've attacted a picture of the 4 botls that I took off.

Ok, I've taken the door trim off and had a look inside the service holes. It seems that the cable has snapped. Anyone know what I need to remove and can I just replace the cable?

My window on the R32 fell down inside the door and now won't wind back up. Just when I closed it today it made a lound clunk noise and I went to open it again. That's when it just slid down. It doesn't sound like it's rattling or anything so I don't know if it's fallen of its tracks or something else. I will be taking the door apart tomorrow and removing the sound deadening to have a look. I just want to know what the general problem could be as I don't really know how the window mechanism operates.

Hi Are you willing to post to Melbourne for $140? Ray

A price on the reverse light?

What suburb are you from? Also do GTR wings have a brake light on them?

Hi I'm after the driver's side reverse light. This is the little white one besides the number plate. If you still have this how much? I'm located in the northern suburbs of Melbourne so I can probally pick it up. If not I'm happy to pay for Australian post as it's a pretty small item.