im late

Hey Ash Good point about the cams. If I upgrade to 2.8, will that be more suitable for the cams? (in your opinion).

Hey All, I am now thicking of rebuilding my 2.6 to a 2.8. My current specs are in the thread below: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...up-t265663.html Can anyone out there with personal experience see that the upgrade will be a smooth one (i.e. I'll only need crank, piston and rods). Correct me if I am wrong please.

Thanks for your comment TiTAN, Yes you are right for sure. I guess a 2.8 would be the go. Bloody Jap Yen.... It’s going to hurt my mortgage but you only live once..... Maybe I'll post a wanted ad to see who has a 2.8 kit lying around

Hi Steve X-Speed told me (last year in an email) they can tune GT-SS's to 400RWKW (which would be awesome)... GT-SS's = GT2860-7's. I might go down that path if I hear of alot more people around SAU land that have a similar setup with -7's and doing around 400RWKW's!!! My current turbo setup is awesome for bulk power. But my car is used on the freeways and streets of perth so response is more important to me than outright top end power. I would have just kept the T04z coz that made me shit my pants the first time I put the foot down!!!!! Maybe one day when I have enough funds I WILL build a drag monster with bulk skid power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey All, This is my current setup at 445RWHP @ 20PSI: Block: Block O-Ringed, Line bored, Bored to 87mm and torque plate honed Arias 87mm Forged Pistons Argo Conrods N1 Water Pump N1 Rings N1 NDC bearings Genuine Nissan R33 GTR Crank Complete bottom end balance (Clutch/flywheel, rods, pistons and crank) Jun Oil Pump ATI Harmonic Balancer GReddy Light Weight Pulley Kit ARP Main Stud and Rod bolts Kit Trust Sump Extension, baffle and pickup Nismo Engine mounts Complete Silicone Heater/Coolant Hose Kit Head: Head fully serviced by Head Exchange WA Head machined to accept Jun cams HKS 1.6mm head gasket HKS Metal intake and exhaust gaskets Jun 272 10.5mm Cams Tomei Cam Studs Tomei Adjustable cam gears ARP Head Studs Jun Valve Guides Jun Valve Springs Precision valve shims Splitfire Coilpacks Fuel system: Sard Dual Entry Fuel Rail Sard 800cc Injectors Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator Bosch 044 pump mounted internally Forced Induction: 2 x Garrett GT2860R-5 Turbos (Rear housings ceramic coated by CIC) 2 x 6-Boost steam pipe manifolds (Low mount, ceramic coated by CIC) Braided Oil and Water turbo lines with Speedflow fittings Exhaust: Trust Extension Split Dumps (Ceramic coated by CIC) Trust 90mm Front Pipe (Ceramic coated by CIC) 3.5” Ballistic Metal Cat Apexi N1 3.5” Cat back This setup used to have a T04Z. It was bulk power but was not really useable for street duties or light track which is why I sold it off last year. Then I got the 2860R-5's. It has better response than the T04Z but still not really suitable for my liking. I really want the power/response setup and I am stuck for a choice. I am looking for close to stock turbo response but with a lot more power. I am used to the power of the T04Z (mine was doing 575RWHP) but I am hoping someone out there has a turbo setup that provides over 450RWHP but has close to stock response. This might be a long shot but any opinions are welcome. You can bag me out for not keeping the T04Z or wanting to ditch the 2860R-5's In case this makes a difference I don't really have a budget. However of course I only want to spend on what is proven and not a waste of money (I have done that too many times in the past) Oh, also I only want to stick to the twin low mount setup.

Think i'll just paint the standard one.

Hey All, I am going to paint my plenum black but it will mean my car will be off the road again (which is no good for me). I thought I might buy a GReddy Plenum, get that painted and then swap it over in one day (I have to replace my knock sensors as well once the plenum is removed). The question is, is it a worthwhile upgrade? My mod list is quite high: Built/Forged 26 Arias Pistons Argo Conrods R33 GTR Crank Balanced Bottom End 1.6mm Head Gasket Jun 272 10.5mm Lift Cams Tomei Cam Gears Jun Oil Pump N1 Water Pump Trust Sump Extension ATI Balancer GReddy Pulley Kit 6 Boost Manifolds GT2860-5's Trust Dump/Front Extensions Apexi PFC D-Jetro Sard FPR, Rail, 800cc Injectors Splitfire Coilpacks Bosch 044 So maybe it will give me that extra flow. Anyone here bought them and was happy/disappointed? If it is not a worthwhile upgrade then I will just buy another stock plenum and paint that.

HKS Actuators sold... GReddy Type R BOV remains...

Stock BOVs Sold

Hey All, I wish to double check the following: If an actuator is, for example an 0.8 bar actuator (i.e. HKS 0.8bar Actuator) and you have two of them. Does it mean that the total boost the actuators can support is 1.6 bar? 2 x 1.0bar actuators = 2.0bar 2 x 1.2bar actuators = 2.4bar etc, etc...... (I.e. this is on a twin turbo setup on a GTR with GT25 framed turbos) Am I right in what I am stating above? When an electronic boost controller is set to a level (i.e. 1.6bar) my understanding is that the two turbos are producing a total air pressure of 1.6bar. So that would mean each turbo is producing 0.8bar. Is this correct?

According to www.auspost.com, regular parcel post will cost $21, so $170 delivered.... PM me

Pictures of my GReddy Type R BOV (I can't edit my original post so have to reply here).

Hey All, I have the following for sale: A pair of Genuine HKS Actuators, in good used condition. To suit the Garrett or HKS GT25 Frames. It is an excellent upgrade for your stock turbos or N1's. Below is a link for more info: http://www.nengun.com/hks/heavy-duty-actuators Nengun sell new for $414 delivered. My price is $200 firm ______________________________________________________________ Pair of standard GTR BOV's on the standard Y pipe in good used condition. Useful if you are putting your car back to stock. Stock BOV's can support up to around 450HP no probs. Price is $150 pickup firm ______________________________________________________________ Genuine GReddy Type R BOV (Standard Spring Model) flanged onto a pipe to fit onto the stock location of a R32 GTR (maybe R33 and R34 as well) in good used condition. Being the universal model it can be adapted to fit ANY car. Of course it’s fully adjustable for soft or hard setting. The Type R is one of the best models on the market. These will get VERY rare soon as GReddy is now bankrupt.......... Price is $250 pickup firm Pic to be posted tonight. ______________________________________________________________ - All items can be posted at your expense - Please don't offer as I stated above firm prices - PM, SMS or call Adam on 0424 982 764

I also got an unsprung OS Giken triple plate R3C clutch. I use it every day in peak hour traffic. No problems. Not a pig down low.

Glad to hear it all sorted.... Time now to peel skids

Whoever did your BOV install MUST give back to you ALL the items he/she took off the car during the install. Every competent mechanic will just pop it all in a box in the boot of your car. You are going to have to get the original stuff back from them other wise you are going to have to spend some more money to do one of the following: 1. You go to a wrecker and get all the factory hoses, etc to fit the stock BOV back on. 2. Turbosmart should provide as an option part to convert you BOV to return. This means a pipe/hose can be run back to your intake. To round up: 1. You MUST feed the BOV venting back into the intake. 2. If the problem still persists (unlikely) Clean the AAC Valve.

Let me save you the expense by telling you this. Your stock BOV is PERFECTLY fine for the power level you will be running with those mods. I am running more than double the factory horse power on my car with still the stock BOVs. All day everyday no problems Put the stocker back in and plumb it all back again into the intake. Keep it legal bro.....don't give the cops a reason to pull you over!!!!!!!!!!! If your mechanic reckons you need an aftermarket BOV and that you can vent to atmo with your stock ecu.......then they need to go back to the mechanic school 101 class

If it is the trumpet turbosmart then it will be vent to atmosphere. Vent to atmosphere = the LOUD wank/illegal pppssssttttt noise you hear from the BOV in between each gear change! Mate that can really be the cause of your problem. The stock ECU relies on the air that is vented from the BOV being recirculated back into the intake

Hey Scott, I have a few points: 1. Was this problem occuring BEFORE you did the upgrade? 2. Is your BOV aftermarket? If it is, is it venting to atmosphere? If it is then thats a BIG NO NO!!!!!!!!! 3. Check out this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...n+the+aac+valve It is a mechanical service but may fix your problem (I had to do it)!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope I provided some insite for you

By the way Matt, My car is doing 445 AWHP with two standard BOVs. No probs... I am venting to atmosphere becasue I have a MAP sensor based ECU. I am going to plum back soon because I DON'T want attention form the boys in blue. I wouldn't touch anthing on your car just for the sound.

Hi Matt, You car has a blow off valve standard. The reason you can't hear it is because the unused air (which creates the sound) is feed back into your intake piping to your turbo. Unless you have an aftermarket ECU that relies on map signals rather than the standard air-flow meters then it will not be a good idea to vent to atmosphere. If you really want the "psshh" sound then get an aftermarket pod filter (like a K&N) so that you will hear "some psshh". You won't need to upgrade your BOV if you are going down that path. Anyone that tells you that you can vent to atmosphere with a standard ECU + standard airflow meters does not understand the complexities of how the standard ECU works. It measures the air volume it sucks in through the intake and pushes that air through the inter cooler. When unused air (the air that does not go into the plenum) is released through the BOV, then this air volume needs to be run back through to the airflow meters so the ECU can make correct air/fuel mixtures. Bear in mind POD air filters and “aftermarket” BOVs may be illegal in your state. If you really want to get an aftermarket BOV, support the Australian industry (through your stimulus donation from Rudd) and buy a Turbo smart. Turbo Smart is very popular and supplied worldwide. Check out: http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=46 The model you need is the “Nissan Dual Port, Part Number: TS-0205-1026” Remember this needs to be plumed back into your standard BOV return piping for your car to drive and idle fine and for your fuel/air mixtures not to go crazy. Hope this helps.

Hey All, I thought I might start a thread about important information that a lot of future brake upgraders will need to help decide what wheels to use with their chosen aftermarket caliper/rotors. Sometimes the only way to tell if it fits is to "try"..... But not all of us can afford to keep buying rims until it “fits”..... lol This could be a useful source of information for anyone at the point of choosing rims to suit their calipers/rotors but also their taste. I suggest we use this format: Car Year/Make/Model: ?? Front Caliper: ?? Rear Caliper: ?? Front Rotor: xxxmm x xxmm Rear Rotor: xxxmm x xxmm Wheel Make/Model: Size: xx" Width: xx" Offset: +/-xx For example: Car Year/Make/Model: 1993 Nissan Skyline GTR Front Caliper: Sumitomo - Factory Rear Caliper: Sumitomo - Factory Front Rotor: 296mm x 32mm - Factory Rear Rotor: 297mm x 18mm - Factory Wheel Make/Model: Work XD9 Size: 18" Width: 10" Offset: +18 If this thread becomes popular for all members then it would be great if it could be sticky'd

The end fitting will screw into the caliper and the brake line IS long enough. Only a new bracket needs to be made up similar to the standard. Please understand I am only talking about the rear calipers as I can't bolt the fronts on as they need dog bones (the whole reason I started this post) BTW, I found out Racetune in Bayswater will happily machine custom dog bones and alloy hats with your aftermarket 2 piece rotors for the correct offset.

I wouldn't get 33gtr brembo to replace this as they have a very similar piston diameter. There will be some custom work involved (dog bones, alloy hats, brake line brackets) but it can be done. With regards to the pits, as long as the pot count are the same as what came out from the factory (i.e. 4 pot standard then get 4 pot F50 Brembo) then it CAN be engineered. You will be hard pressed getting a 6 pot AP Racing or Project Mu Kit engineered on a R32 GTR.........

They do bolt up to a non Vspec R32 GTR. See below link for more info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/20...98#entry4489998