im late

You are making sense Ronin_09, I guess they only way to really tell is to trial fit with a 316 x 20 rotor (if they exsist, I can't be stuff checking just now) to see if it fits... Anyway, for those that are interested, below is the pics of the inside of the rotors. BTW, front rotors have piston diameters of 40mm and 34mm and the rear rotors have a piston diameter of 30mm.

Ok now I understand I think that this won't be an issue if there is a 316mm x 20mm rotor that has the correct offset and size rotor hat to suit your car (whether it is the poverty pack or the hollywood pack) :laughing-smiley-014: But custom hats would be the answer if there is no "off the shelf" one. I have been able to find a company here in Perth (Racetune Motorsport) that has a machinist that has done custom dog bones and hats many times. I still haven't decided if I keep the STI claiper set or if I sell them and go down a different path................

lol... poverty pack GTR!!! I feel so poor... My understanding is that the rear brembos on the R32 vspec, R33 GTR and R33 vspec are all the same calipers. I will measure the piston diamter of the rear (and front) calipers and post it here when I get home tonight. I am not sure what you mean about the internal hand brake. I only trial bolted the Brembo caliper. It is physically about the external same size as the OEM caliper so it does not foul the path of the handbrake cable as it enters the hub from behind. You can see in the picture I took above labeled "view from the bottom" were the handbrake cable enters the hub is not near the caliper. I'll take some internal shots of the calipers and also post tonight. Can't really offer any advice on removing the stone gaurd...

Hey djr81, The GTRs (vspec R32, standard R33 and vspec R33) all use the same rear size rotor which is DBA 929 - 300mm x 22mm. My GTR is a non-vpec so the rotor is smaller in diameter and thickness. Is your povvo pack GTR a non vspec version? You mentioned in point 3 above that the brembos wouldn't fit over your rotor. Is your rear brembo a nissan vspec oem? If it is I think it is different from the MY05 STI rear brembo I have. My rear Brembos can fit over 316mm x 20mm rotors. We are raising so good conversation points. Let's keep them coming

Hey Ronin_09, I thought the standard was 330mm. Obviously I was wrong...... I came to the assumption that 340mm is needed because I saw that an extra 10mm is needed to fill the caliper. Unfortunatley I did not make any acurate measurments I just esimated by sight. The DBA site states the standard Pre 8/93 R32 GTR rear rotor (DBA 908) as 297mm x 18mm. The DBA site states the standard MY05 STI rear rotor (DBA 655) as 316mm x 20mm. So now, my assumption would be that a after market 316mm x 20mm 2 piece rotor would be needed with either an off the shelf or custom hat to suit the R32 GTR Hub. If that rotor size exsists then it would be an option for people. Does everyone agree?

Correct Troy, As I stated above. I trial fitted yesterday. I have not decided wether I should actually use them. I did also state you will need a larger diameter rotor (340mm). I did however forgot to mention you also would need a thicker rotor. I reckon the following has to be costed up to see if it worth it: - Pair of 340mm x 30mm rotors - $?? - Pair of brake line brakets custom made - $?? - Labour to install - $?? (if you are not able to do it yourself) All the info above is purley to show other people that it is possible to fit rear calipers.

Ok trial fitted them after work today. The bolt on perfectly (just like my mechanic said). Only thing is you can't use the Nissan bolts. You will need thinner bolts (My Brembos came with their own bolts which, as you can see below, fits). Comments I have: 1. The STI pads are bigger than the Nissan pads so they do not cover the outer edge of the rotor 100%. 2. This issue would be solved with 340mm rotors. There is enough clearance in the caliper and the factory rotor shield to accommodate (Factor in the cost of new aftermarket rotors to suit if thinking of going down this path). 3. The factory screw fitting of the brake line looks like the same size to screw into the STI Caliper. 4. The factory bracket that holds the end of the brake line will need to be modified/re-created to fit (Any mechanic/machinist can do this for a small fee so it is not really an issue). 5. Make sure this is done for safety reasons (I.e. so the rubber brake line hose does no rub on the upper/lower suspension link). 6. There is nothing else you would need to do to fit it correctly to your BNR32!!!! 7. You will need to check with a brake expert to see if they will work fine with the standard R32 GTR bracking system. So there you have it. You CAN direct bolt the STI Gold rear Brembos to your R32 GTR!!!!!! Pics below: Fitted on the car View from the top View of bolts View from the bottom Angle view

Skyline model = 1993 R32 GTR Wheel diameter = 18" (Work XD9 Rims) Wheel width = 4 x 10" Wheel offset = +18 Tyre size = 4 x 275/35/ZR18 Semi Slicks (Not fitted in pics yet) Modifications to fit = Just One, I lipped the rear arches. Also you need to make sure you buy the work hub rings overwise the wheels will be supported by the studs (not good) instead of the hub (good). My car is lowered so for the first few weeks it slightly rubbed against the front plastic wheel arch guide. No rubbing now.

Hey Guys, Sorry for the late reply. In my initial post I stated . I have not actually had them on the car yet. The reason I stated that is becasue I was promised that the rear Brembos will bolt up to my rear hub by my mechanic.I tried to fit them myself over the weekend......only to find.......MY MECHANIC FORGOT TO PUT MY LOCK NUT BACK IN THE CAR!!!!! He is back from Annual leave tomorrow so I will get the lock nut and then try to fit the rear calipers. He assured me they would (which is why I bought the STI Brembo's). Once I do I will take a picture and post it.

Hey All, I have a full set of 2005 STI Gold Brembo Callipers to use on my car. The rears bolt up fine but the fronts require "dog bone" mounting brackets. I have called the authorised Brembo distributors but they did not offer any support/product. I am wondering if anyone knows where I can buy a pair? Or do they get custom made and if they do, who does it? I have been doing the ring around and I can't find anyone to help. Any leads/info would be greatly appreciated.

Hey All, I have a full set of 2005 STI Gold Brembo Callipers to use on my car. The rears bolt up fine but the fronts require "dog bone" mounting brackets. I have called the authorised Brembo distributors but they did not offer any support/product. I am wondering if anyone knows where I can buy a pair? Or do they get custom made and if they do, who does it? I have been doing the ring around here in Perth and I can't find anyone to help. Any leads/info would be greatly appreciated.

Hey All, My car has been working fine for the last month (I just got it back after 5 months). Basically (every now and then) the following will happen. I'll take off from stand still. Then I build the boost, foot to the floor, once the boost controllor has reached its setting (which is currently 20PSI) turbos will give forced induction for a second then instantly I loose all boost!! Motor is still running and of course I am still driving along but its like you are driving fast then you hit a brick wall !!!! My head luches forward as if I have the BIGGEST ALCON brakes ever!!! lol This happens half of the time. Sometimes my turbos pull all the way to redline (like they should). Some times I get the issues described above. I just got my car back after some MAJOR work ( link of work done: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...80#entry4458247 , Scroll halfway up the page to see my mod list/dyno results ) It has been working fine up until end of last week. Yes I am taking it back to my mechanic to sort it out, I just wanted to share my experience with everyone on SAU and also see if anyone has had the same issue. Any comments/advice greatly appreciated.

Hi WHITE R32 and Rowdyr32, Thank you so much for the great offers. However I have sourced one. Thanks Again, Adam

Hey all, After the G Sensor unit from a R32 GTR or R32 GTS-4. Must be in working order (i.e. no ABS, 4WD lights coming up on the dash). For those that don't know it is the control box that sits under the centre console over the driveshaft tunnel. Let me know your price if you have one. I am willing to pay for interstate freight.

Will do

Abdus, Ant and Cameron are the best!! They have done all the work on my car!! Very professional and trustworthy. Highly Recommended.

Thanks for letting me know. I assume that you compression is standard? Mine is much lower (with my 1.6mm gasket) My motor was built for big PSI so its not the best example for 20PSI -5's However once boost is raised then we'll see.

Nah you didn't come across rude at all. I was just asking if you had personal experience, thats all. What might clear ther air is that the dyno I was on is a very old model that is well known in Perth to measure less then I am actually doing. I few of the SAUWA members have reported in the past of running their car at the dyno I was on and a few weeks later running at other dynos around Perth and reporting a bigger figure. My advanced timing is very conservative compared to other people. Plus also I am running low compression (1.6mm Gasket) So the -5's need to push alot more air to get a decent figure. I agree that 330RWKW is abit on the low side compared to what others are getting but lets take into account that my motor used to have a T04Z with 6 Boost manifold and 50mm Ext Tial Wastegate and it was pushing 575RWHP with no advanced timing to speak off. My motor is not the best example of the potential of -5's at 20PSI. All will change at 24PSI though.........

Although I have never personally had GT-SS's I have read the whole Dyno thread and have found a common pattern: Stock Motor + GT-SS (7's) at 18PSI is around 300 - 310 RWKW Stock Motor + GT-SS (7's) at 20PSI is around 310 - 340 RWKW These turbos run fine at those boost settings If you push past 22PSI the turbos would start to be less efficient and run out of huff over 6000rpm. There are some cars doing up to 350RWKW on GT-SS's with a stock motor (and the essential supporting hardware). It has been proven many times in japan (and here for that matter) that a stock RB26 can produce up to 400RWKW with the required supporting hardware. For this to be true the following would need to apply. 1. The stock motor must be in an excellent condition (i.e. good leak down and compression tests) 2. Hoses, belts must not be the original ones (they are over 15+ years now)!! 3. The water and oil pumps must be in tip top working order (they would be questionable after that many years)!! Basically if you have a stock 15+ year old motor don't expect it to last as long pushing 300+RWKW than if it was just running stock turbos. Hope this helps.

Hi Simon, You do not need a built motor to work GT-SS's to their peak. You just need the essentials (Aftermarket ECU, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Exhaust). There are heaps of cars in Australia with stock motors running the essential mods mentioned above producing around 330RWKW all day every day. You do need a built motor if you want to run -5's to their peak. If you saw my dyno post I stated I had to stop at 20PSI during my tune because my knock sensors are faulty and in case I get a bad batch of fuel I won't know about detonation until it may be too late. Once the knock sensors are replaced then I will up the boost to 24 (maybe 25) PSI and then we will see why -5's are the choice if you want higher HP than what -7's or GT-SS's can do. I'll say this again. GT-SS or -7's are THE turbos to have for the street if you have a stock motor. I have a built motor so my turbo choice is greater. For now I choose -5's. Later...... who knows?

What are your turbos?

That is rear wheel HP. Why would you have expected more? Have you had personal experience with GT2860R-5's? Once I increase the boost to 24PSI then the turbos will come 'alive'. Once I replaced my faulty knock sensors I will tune and increase boost. We are expecting over 500 All Wheel HP once done. I will keep you all posted.

As promised, Dyno sheet. See here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...80#entry4418655 Took it for a nice drive. Boost builds quite low (around 3600) then once it hits 4000 it pulls VERY hard all the way to my 8300 redline. Power delivery is linier (to be expected) not like a "on/off" effect like a big single. My knock snesors are faulty so it is currently tuned to 20PSI. Once they are replaced I'll be able to run higher boost and be able to monitor detotnation (in case I get a bad batch of fuel). Overall I think they are ok for they street but I agree that if you are happy with 330RWKW they you may be better off with -7's or GT-SS's. As my motor is built for a lot more power I am going to push higher later.

SOLD>>

lach, Depending on the buyer and the cost of the car, usually genuine sellers are happy to pay for return airfare. I have seen this on offer on MANY interstate cars for sale. See if the seller understands your caution. I am sure he might come to the party.