esky_mad

anyone ?? just want to know if when cranking the engine over fuel should contantly flow to the engine ??

looks nice and clean mate... can imagine alot of cringes when people saw the white dash so good move putting it back to black..

ok im one of those people that cant let something go until its fixed or i at least no whats wrong with it... did some more poking around and when the fuel line from the engine side of the filter is off this is what happens... turn on the igniton.. fuel pump primes.. fuel pours out of the filter..wait.. crank the engine.. no fuel from the filter.. crank the engine all in one turn(no waiting for the pump to prime).. no fuel comes out.. i dont no much about fuel pumps, or fuel systems but surely it needs constant fuel to start, is it a result of poor voltage to the pump when cranking ?? obviously being an RB20 nowhere cares to much about my issues but some advice would be nice.

PFC's have a tendency to short out when the battery is not disconnected before commencing work with any form of wiring... even during a gearbox change which invloved plugging/unplugging wires shorted it out. (an exmaple im aware of, not a job i did) providing you disconnected the battery it shouldnt be this though...

ok i cant seem to edit my post previous posts... anyway it seems im back at square one. can confirm im defnitely getting spark from all coilpacks, all injectors are ticking, tryed another CAS (from a CA but coils and injectors still tick and fire) Error code 12 flashes when the AFM is plugged in, but even without it pluuged in it wont fire. havent made any wholesale changes since it came out of the old car which is why i find it strange its being so difficult to start. whilst trying to start it it turns over fine but then slows right down as if the battery is dying but then picks up again then slows down.. will crank fine for ages then slow down again etc etc... dodgy battery ?? shouldnt it still fire whilst its cranking over ok ? i would assume it shouldnt have any affect anyway for it to die everytime it does(did) start, unless the alternator is coincidently dead aswell. ive tryed the CAS is different positions but with no luck.......... serioulsy sick of this car!!

injectors are ticking fine but cant see any spark... motor is a lil on the rough side with the AFM unplugged. havent been able to get any spark from no1 coil but am yet to try any of the others. but it was on all 6 cylinders when it was running with everything plugged in. hole moon looks to be in good condition. havent really had it running well enough to play around with the CAS. bear in mind the AFM has been sitting around with no protection for the past 6 months. EDIT: ok can finally confirm spark, but CAS seems to have alot of play/or just very sloopy.

very true except for the "if" and "was"

luke it would seem you were bang on... put another ignitor in this morning, still no change. messed around with a few other things incuding leaving the AFM unplugged. motor tentatively started. was then i realised AFM wasnt plugged in. plugged it in and motor was a little smother but would still cutout a little when revving. motor then dyed after about 5mins of running. messed around with CAS not really thinking about the AFM but couldnt get it started again... then unplugged the AFM and it once again tentatively started... plugged in the AFM and the motor instantly died. therefore im guessing once the AFM warms up it dies.... plus the fact the motor wont even start with it plugged in.

error codes came back as 55 so no answers there. i tryed to check for spark.. pulled no 1 plug out left it on the coilpack and let it rest on the cam cover, cranked it and got nothing, wasnt sure about the surface so tryed fuel rail feed also got no spark... possibly a ignitior issue or could the CAS cause no spark ??

so the story goes.... i fitted my new cefiro shell with the old RB20 from my old cefiro. all went smoothly engine fired up almost instantly. had a few teething issues as you would expect, started and stopped it numerous times without trouble. whilst i had the engine running it just died. the fuel light was on so i assumed it was out of gas. had a few other things to do so hasnt been started for approx 6 weeks..... fueled it up.... now it wont start just gives massive bangs through the exhaust. *put brand new plugs in *fitted different pump *fuel is running the correct way *battery is good to go how can i tell if the CAS or ignitor is stuffed without a multimeter?? when i plug in the CAS you can hear the fuel pump prime, if that helps at all any help is appreciated. cheers.

catalina is quite a cool place to visit these days. its pretty eary seeing all the old fences/or lack of. such a shame suburbia is killing so much motorsport for this county.

there was a question regarding supercharging earlier in the thread. dont know if it was answered... either way.. early model 323 + Simmons + Rotary = Win!!

for a skyline forum there sure is alot of debate regarding rotarys... id like to see a skyline debate on the other side of the fence. i personally would have no problem jumping into a tough PP13B RX323

recently sold my A31 crossmember for $100. you should be able to pick one up for there abouts.

NS.com types are gradually creeping into SAU. Fuel pump at the very least buddy. the only turbo in your price range is a KKR or equivalent and many rb20's with supporting mods only make 210-220kw with alot of boost with these turbos. Trust is the choice of winners....its a shame about the 6k price tag that comes with it....

hey guys, wrecking my partners now very dead 89 180sx. the front end is a complete writeoff therefore theres no front panels, lights, intercooler, radiator etc to speak of. the car does have a Trust TD05 turbo kit but at this stage it wont be for sale. nor will the exhaust. Panels *Fronts doors - both in good condition, have been painted satin black. $80each *Hatch - good condition, painted gloss black, no rust or spoiler holes looks like they were filled in at some stage. $150 *Jetspeed widebody rearguards - good condtion, these guards are not your usual guards as they wrap around alot more than the majority you see for sale. $200 *Genuine Final Konnexion Sideskirts - leftside has a few cracks at the front but is still usable. $80 *Genuine Final Konnexion Rearbar - good condition has paintcracks but no cracks through the glass. $100 Running Gear *CA18DET - good condition, no blowby, no oil leaks, no coolant leaks, no funny rattles etc. does not include turbo,manifold,oil feed,oil return. this is good for someone who has popped there CA and needs a replacement, does include injectors,coilpacks,complete intake side,alternator,powersteer pump,no belt for powersteering is included. $500 *CA18DET gearbox - good condition, never had any problems with this box, shifts really nicely. has a jap brand short shifter fitted. it was fitted when the car arrived from japan and has no markings. $450 *Extreme heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel package - to suit CA18, really nice clutch to drive with, nice and firm but perfect for street driving, approx 8000kms old. $500 *R33 GTS25T Fuel pump in 180/S13 pump cradle - good condition, easy drop in and sell your stock pump and cradle. $50 Interior We have basically everything, Front Seats Rear Seats Carpet (clutch fluid leak stains) dash (has cracks from being removed from the car) Stereo/shifter cover Centre console NO glovebox available!! Suspension *Trust front shocks/w Cusco? camber tops and king springs (note:these are not coilovers or height adjustable) *Pedders rear shocks/w king springs Other Diff - Stock halfshafts - stock prices are somewhat negotable (spelling) depending on what it is if theres any little things your after post here or send me a pm and ill see if its still alive or not. otherwise send me a pm for any details on a part or to arrange viewing. ABSOLUTELY NO TIME WASTERS PLEASE!!! if any depsoits are taken it will be on the provision you pay in full and pickup/send within the week. otherwise deposit will be returned and part sold to someone else. Cheers. Wheels and gauges are not for sale

i used a new Z32 cable, but previously modded a handbrake cable to suit (not recommended)

make a plate to bolt to the side of the AAC unit that usually bolts to the manifold then connect the line that goes 'in' the AAC unit as usual, connect one end of a hose to the new plate and connect the other end of the hose to a nipple on the manifold. thats how i did mine (im not using the same manifold, just had a similar problem)

my old cefiro came with a blitz boost gauge mounted on the "A" pillar in a greddy cup you can tell its not meant for a cefiro though. im guessing either S13 or R32 should fit fine.

get yourself a GTR pump if your going to the hassle of replacing it

huh ??.... reece mcgregor used a T51R SPL to run 7's althought this wasnt using radial tyres... "Dunlop SP Sport Dragway Special Tyres"

i smashed my old ceffy, the front left chassis rail ended up kinked in the firewall. still drove fine, so dodgy rattles etc even though the front left corner was making the rest of the car crab... put some pics up here.... i had many funny rattles when i first got it, could be any number of things... oh yeah and my old ceffy doest exist, so your not in ownership of it.

you can always try trademe.co.nz id imagine postage would be approx the price of the grill itself....

hey guys, ive been seatching for a New Era relay lately and havent come up with much. ive tryed, a few supercheaps, autobarn, a few different specialist electronic stores.... but no luck i am however yet to try jaycar but i cant see what im after on there site... ive attached a pic so your aware of what im talking about, let me know if you know where i can pick one up. Cheers.

watched 2 minutes of last season, watched 2 minutes of this season.... (waits eagerly for next season of UK topgear)