esky_mad

had my RB20 cefiro remapped by toshi, very happy with how much better the car drives. comes on boost much faster, was tuned with a safe tune because the car is primarily a track car. for the price its defnitely worth it!! see you soon toshi, with Z32 and Injectors!!

very nice!!

HKS turbo + cheap = non-existent. http://www.nengun.com/hks/turbine-gt3037s turbo alone ^^

hey mate, cheers for that info, my cooler pipes are somewhat suspect but there good for the time being (homemade FTW) the car has since been tuned, also no dyno tune just a road tune and the car is heaps quicker, bakes 18x10 no probs on .6 bar lol long life the '20.

for the mods you have i doubt very much a power fc is going to have any benefit at all compared to a remap. just food for thought, i recently got a remap by toshi. my mods are far from stock. RB20DET GT3040 Custom plenum GTR pump Full exhaust Front mount bits and bobs here and there, so you get the picture. the car was an absolute dog (obviously) toshi spent all of friday and a bit of saturday arvo road tuning it and on only .6bar the car comes alive so much better. AFR's were tuned very safe as its primarily a drift car. i was using stock injectors maxed out ans stock AFM hence why we kept the boost low. so in other words get a remap, safe the rest of that money for further mods, guages or whatever.

rb20's dont benefit very much at all from front facing plenums. if your doing if for the pure astheitcs, then maybe its worth it its up to you if you want to spend the money on a decent one, your unlikely to come across any second hand good quality plenums for the 20, and i would advise you not to go for a cut and shut jobby, it looks shit and theres a good chance you'll start leaning the motor out (some people swear by them while majority wouldnt touch them) ive got a custom top half thats welded to the original runners (RB20 , i only got it because it was cheap, and i didnt want piping running everywhere, highmount etc.) you could mess around with the GTR core or just get a cheap chinese kit that'll flow just as much as that old GTR core. dont mean to criticise but it doesnt sound like your after much power so money spend on that plenum could go to a fuel pump or oil cooler, something thats going to make an actual contribution to the motor. my 2c.

i have for sale one Trust Greddy E-manage Blue. it comes with. *Main module *Main harness *universal injector harness *universal ignition harness can be wired up to fit almost any car. YES this is a piggyback computer. i purchased this only recently but have decided to go another path, it was previously used on an R34 GT-T but everything looks brand new and the 2 universal harnesses have not been used. located in sydney. $350 pickup $365 postage anywhere in aus PM or post here. Cheers. located in sydney.

emo black FTW!!

hmm why does it seem that SAU is turning into the likes of NS.com these days.... dont worry im not hear to barrage your thread lol. considering igniton problems 316kw is far from ordinary, interested to see what it comes out with once any/all the bugs are ironed out. GL.

that was quick

for those people that might be interested, the problems were. TPS was stuffed, replaced it and it instantly solved the starting issues and holding idle. pulling up to intersections the car would completely stall, not even a whick of it trying to grab. i dont run a BOV, and i hunted through heaps of threads and amoungst a bucket load of crap about not running BOV's causing stalling blah blah, i realied it was suffering from compressor surge, made a somewhat dodge inlet pipe to get the afm away from the turbo and BAM, the drama was gone. simple..........

+1

if you find a .63 unbearable after trying it you can always resort to the .82 later on. at least try the .63 first.

+1 for .63

lag RB20 FTW

tomei sells 2.2 and 2.4l kits. approx $1500 from nengun. obviously this is no where near the kind of cost your looking at for it to be a complete running motor. if theres nothing wrong with your current motor, throw on a "GOOD" quality oil cooler, rad etc etc and keep safe boost levels.

update: i dont seem to be able to edit my original post. the errors codes are reading 43 which is the TPS. would this cause erratic idle and stalling ?? ive got another one here, which im not sure of the condition. no harm in trying it out ??

im after an umolested AAC/ACC valve, not sure of the spelling for an R32 RB20 must be in sydney, will buy the entire intake manifold if i have to. 0450472446 cheers, Mick.

dangerman you seem to be correct. ive just read on NS.com that the readings on the pump are the wrong way around. hence the pump primes but wont pump. im yet to actually check mine but it was brought from the same seller so i assume its the same......

connections are on as they should be. i was under the impression the rb20 didnt need any wiring add-ons to make the walbro work. also is the GTR fuel pump a direct fit ? or is it the same deal as the walbro ?

ive gone a lil stupid on my rb20. ive spent over 10k on parts from october last year until now on a stock internal motor. you really need to decide how much you want to spend then you can decide how much power/driveability you want to achieve. +1 for the 2530

i havent added any extra wiring nor replaced any, is this what you have to do ?

Item: Garrett GT3040R .63 4 bolt rear housing. external gate. Age:5000kms Condition:excellent Price:EOI: $1300 ono To Fit: take your pick.. Location:sydney Contact:PM Comments:i brought my GT3040 last year second hand, the guy i brought it off had used it for approx 2500kms, max boost 13psi. ive only recently got my car going so the turbo has been approx 150kms on my car. there is absolutly no problems with it, ive only now realised how stupidly big it is for a 2.0L. my car is yet to be tuned but im seeing if there is any interest now as im looking at getting a 3071 or 76. cheers, Mick.

ok well this is my second attempt at getting the walbro pump to work... first time some random elec prob wouldnt allow anything on the car to work i thought it was the pump it wasnt but i put the stock pump back in. this time the pump primes makes all its noises but its not pumping any fuel, put the stock pump in... no probs, fuels easy. i havent soldiered anything, ive crimped on connecters to the walbro wires and then used the screw from the original pump and wires and screwed them together, (my soldering skills are VERY limited) is the connection super pathetic that it wont pick up fuel ? theres a bit over a quarter of a tank and the pump is well inside the cradle. your thoughts please. no flaming, i no im shit at this sort of thing.

so whats better ? a nistune or a remap ? im very confused as i thought they were the same thing!!