esky_mad

ok stripping my cefiro. if someone wants the shell they can have it for $200, its got heaps of bog in the rear quarters and looks pretty shit. rails are straight front end is straight. will come as a bare shell though, no hanging panels, no wiring, no tank no lights, except tails which you can have more than happy to help lift onto a trailer.. so that leaves : doors 4x fronts 4x rears $40 each front guards 2x left 2x right $30 each bonnet good conditon just a bit of paint chipped off $80 boot good condition $60 6 bolt VLSD diff $180 front windscreen has a large crack in it. rear screen is good, send me a PM if your after it. GKtech front pipe $50, used for approx 2 weeks, but kept hitting the floor thanks to the catback sitting to high. ive got heaps of random parts so if your after something particular send me a PM or SMS on 0450472446 i want this shit gone ASAP so any REASONABLE offer wont be refused!! located in the parramatta area in SYDNEY for those who missed it.

HSV - boo FPV - yay autech also did the same with the R32 sedan

the first cefiro i brought in australia 4 and half years ago cost me $8500. Factory RB20DET auto mint body, pearl white etc etc... regardless of where you live and how much more you think you earn compared to residents of the eastern states your cefiro is only worth what someone is going to pay. 9k is to much in my opinion for a de+t. transmission has alot to do with it, which is why manuals are consistently more expensive than autos, i only brought auto because there were no manuals anywhere near my price range. you've talked about selling and not selling your car for as long as i can remember... speaking of nz car prices... approx 6 years ago i brought a R32 spec m 4 door shell for $160. my dad then sold it for $50.

so you basically want a wheel alignment ?? go to a tyre shop that has wheel alignment facilities and tell them what you want everything set to, if you have a preference for the settings.

V8supercars is a business before its a sport thesedays, hence cochrane is just a slightly different take on a money hungry CEO. used to love the v8's, but theres no loyalty what so ever, reinterating the point its a business... its a shame DJR isnt as good as they were in 99/00 at bathurst (yes im aware they didnt win but their car speed was awesome)

rotorua/rottenrua.... its great to see australians embracing NZ for the being the better of the two countrys.... the car is coming along nicely BTW

a few years ago i worked for a company called DHS, they design and make the stretches etc for NSW ambulances as well as build the ambulances on site. my point being.. there was so much development that went into making jigs for parts that your average joe blog would never pay any attention to. and this development isnt cheap, for what looks like a bunch of plates, bolts and nuts bolted together (albeit a very nice bunch of plates bolts and nuts) was well over 10k... i'd happily believe 9k was invested in developing the original GMS manifold. i could go on but im hoping most here are educated enough to know where those costs go.. the key word here being "development" its never cheap, regardless of the whats trying to be achieved. on topic, i would happily hand over a large sum of cash for an original GMS motor, they sound incredible, and it would fit nicely into my cefiro ....infact id prefer it over a 26 and defnitely over a 25..

thanks buddy, helped alot!

ok first off, this may be the wrong section for this but seeing as the only other section i could post this in would be audio and security has nothing to do with the rewiring of windows i figured this would be the best bet. basically my stock cefiro window switches both drivers side and passenger are shot to shit so ive been attempting to rewire it to a basic switch available from jaycar that they recommend for electric windows, i know the windows work as ive hooked wires directly from a battery to get them up and down... however im struggling to find what wires do what in order to get them working from a switch. theres three large plugs (on the passenger side) all of which plugged in to the single window switch. has anyone done this before ?? if so please shead some light on what you did. For the naysayers... this is a track only car i dont have a workshop manual cefiro window switches are to hard to find i dont have door cards Thanks.

didnt get to many sessions after so many issues this morning before even getting to the track even so had great fun with my 4 year old radials....

Seen my original now dead white cefiro, a mates now sold cefiro, same mates new cefiro, random blue cefiro, random white autech kit cefiro, another white autech kit cefiro, phillb's cefiro, "hectik" billics cefiro, random purple cefiro, SR20 cefiro and my gun metal cefiro... i see different ones around every 6 months or so.. all in sydney.. its always funny going home to NZ for a few weeks and seeing cefiros everywhere is like christmas...it gets old pretty damn quick through, unless you see a super tough example which happens on occasion, majority are massive, bent Plgs

Any idea what time the day will get under way ??

do your best to stay clear of justjap (JJR) suspension parts/or parts that have to have any movement in general.

The 'Y' is next to the 'T' on the keyboard mate

if its only just recently starting doing it i would assume its the filter, pop the fuel filler out to loose some of the pressure and take out the filter. had similar issues on a trust turbo kitted CA, changed the filter and made a suprisingly big difference. filters are so cheap you may aswell give it a shot.

it wont run properly without at least having a remap with the Z32 AFM. i like your plans for a late model shell, but swap them around.... this shell for the track so it doesnt matter if you smack it into a wall... im sure you wouldnt be to happy about destroying a nice straight shell, i sure was'nt! how bad is your loom ?? i striped my latest ceffy loom of almost all the non essential wiring and theres around 8-10 wires running behind the dash, you shouldnt have to much trouble lining up what you dont need/want and getting rid of it...

Hey guys, Selling the turbo kit off my partners old car to fund her new car. Price $1200 ono Kit includes : *Powertune Steampipe manifold, an exact copy of the original trust stainless manifold, these have a lifetime warrenty, some of the best welding you will ever see. *Greddy/Trust TD05 16G turbo, not sure of exhaust housing size but boost came on really well with only basic mods and pulled well into the rev range. *Hot side intercooler piping. *Greddy/Trust BOV, not sure of which model it is unfortunately. *Custom dump/front pipe with 02 Sensor. *Metal oil feed line, appears to have been a modified stock line. works really well however. *Custom intake pipe. im fairly certain thats everything. Does not include an external wastegate, or oil drain line (does have metal oildrain from turbo, just not the hose to the motor) Personally believe this is one of the best turbos you can buy for a CA. All you need is an External Wastegate and your set. I should point out that the flange is for a 4 bolt Wastegate, could easily be modified if you want to use a Tial/turbosmart etc 38mm. Will NOT seperate any parts as they are useless to you using any other turbo, Trust use a 3 bolt exhaust flange so this turbo wont bolt onto your stock manifold, nor will your turbo bolt onto this manfiold, same goes for the dump pipe. please no time wasters, we want to sell this as quickly and painlessly as possible. PM or TXT me on 0450472446 as i cant answer the phone during working hours. dont TXT at stupid hours as you wont recieve a reply. located in Western Sydney, will post at buyers expense.

cant seem to edit my original post. car must also have current rego for at least 2 months.

but its up for for 7,800 negotiable or swap for 31 32 or 33 & wuld consider silvia- all swaps non turbo..

Wanted: Clean, manual, turbo R32 GTST skyline or a clean, manual, turbo CA S13 silvia Item Condition: clean, preferably stock or very minor mods Price and price conditions: up to $7000, possibly more depending condition etc Extra Info: Contact Details: PM, post here or SMS 0450472446 as i cant answer the phone during working hours Location: Western Sydney Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Willing to travel within NSW, not interested in interstate vehicles.

Dr Drift has been doing R33 remaps for a while. http://www.drdrift.com.au/aboutus.php

the quote im giving is from the ex-skaife car.... not a road going version. EDIT: which im fully aware of.... it would seem to me that after he saw the video he wanted to know the specs on THAT motor, not the road going version...

so much uncertainty for something so pointless. remember that these cars were raced in japan aswell... exact quote from the owner of the aforementioned car, if this doesnt help you, nothing can...... Motor basics below.....the rest of the driveline also plays a big part in the performance of the car.....hope this helps. R31 GTS-r intercooler(sort of....there a GMS story behind it) 8:1 compression for the high comp motor. 7:1 compression for the low comp motor 21PSI on the high comp. 23PSI on the low comp Nissan Motorsport Block Custom grind cams(have fun finding blanks) JE pistons Nismo Rods Standard Crank Garret 3/4 turbo(non BB) Titanium Exhaust Valves Stainless Inlet Valves GMS Sump Electromotive ECU(Go Motec.....we have to run the original ECU) PWR Radiator

quoted (to a degree) from the member on this forum who owns the car.....

it has JE pistons and nismo rods for starters... followed by custom grind cams of which i dont no specs on, all wrapped up in a nissan motorsport block... so no its not the same as your typical RB20.