xtra.5

As title says, i have 2 x RB 20 DET gearboxes for sale. 1 is pretty much brand new. Done 3000 kms since rebuilt with upgraded bearings, synchros and gears. Comes with near new Redline gear oil and short shifter (not C's or anything, its literally a 'short' shifter). I have the receipt from the initial purchase of the gearbox. SOLD The other is a good condition secondhand gearbox. All gears/synchros feel fine, no notches or clunks. Will not dissapoint. SOLD The reason i'm selling them both is because i want to upgrade to an RB25 box when my car eventually gets back on the road. Im in Melbourne, South Eastern Suburbs. Call Mike - 0412 678 973

I bought a 32 a couple of weeks ago, and it had the same problem. Fine below 2 grand, but coughed and spluttered its arse off at anything over that, and got worse the more you put your foot into it. (Although mine didnt bounce like it was on rev limiter, and I could slowly, slowly accelerate). I changed both the AFM and Crank Angle Sensor with no better results. Turned out to be the fuel pump. I got that changed over and everything was fine. Might be worth a quick check

Can a compression test and/or leakdown test be done on an engine not currently in a car? Cheers

Thanx for all the advice guys. I think I may just stick with a straight GTS/GTS-T swapover. Seems like its too much work with the GTR, especially cos i would want to remove all the attessa stuff to make it lighter, and get that extra 'lock' (yeah im a drifter). Plus the whole legal side that i cant be F@#ked with. Can anyone confirm that i can put the RB25 back into an r32 legally? Do you need an engineers cert? I didnt beleive you had to cos of the limited release of RB25DE's into 32's, but im unsure. And i imported my current car with the 25 already in it, so i dunno what the whole process is

Really?? I havn't considered this. Can you possibly elaborate a bit more? Why and in what ways is the GTR chassis heavier than the GTS-T?? With the exception of the guards i thought they would have been roughtly the same. Edit : I know the driveshafts would weigh a bit, but couldn't i take all that out, or even use my existing R32 K frame (if its not smashed too much)

Yeah my initial thought was to buy either a stock GTS-T, or even a stock GTS and rebuild my old car. But if i could find a rolling chassis of either then that would be the obvious choice. But i cant find any 32 rolling chassis' at all, except for a GTR. And considering this GTR rolling chassis is roughly the same price as a stock GTS-T, it had just opened up another option. If i go with the GTR, I wont have the RB20 engine and a few other things to resell again, but a GTR looks so much better than a GTS-T. Only thing is, that im usure if much modification will be required to get the RB25 into the GTR shell. (im mainly concerned about the gearbox and diff) If it will go in relatively easily, then there is a big chance i will do it. (I know its not RB26, but i like the idea of a RWD GTR). But if there is going to be too much involved, then i'll just leave it and wait for either a GTS/GTS-T rolling chassis, or a nice cheap stock GTS/GTS-T Thanx to everyone for help so far

That would be nice, but unfortunately after writing off (what was) my daily driven car, with no comprehensive insurance, money is a bit tight. But i'll see if any wrecker/importer is interested, and what i can come up with

Thats exactly what i was thinkin. And considering this rolling chassis is about the same price as a stocky, im leaning towards the GTR. I just gotta work out whats invloved.

Yeah its a rolling shell. Basically, i had/have an R32 GTS-T with an RB25 in it. Last friday i stacked this car into a tree, and sent the fronts drivers side wheel (which was on full lock) through the floor of my drivers side foot well (luckily i had a roll cage). Chassis is kinked, so is shock tower. But everything else incl. engine, box, diff, rear and front left susp is all good. Now i'm wondering what to do. Ideally finding a rolling chassis would be perfect. Whether its a non-turbo or turbo chassis it doesnt really matter as i still have all my brakes/hubs and anything else required to changeover. But there is not much in the way of rolling chassis' for sale. Except this GTR one. Which is why im so interested in this topic. My only other option is that i could buy a stocky GTS-T for 7-8k and change everything over, and effectively rebuild my old car.

G'day guys. Just wondering if anyone knows if there is much involved in putting an RB25 into a 32 GTR?? (obviously its going to be RWD only) I have searched, but could not come up with anything, but pls point me in right direction if theres something already there. Will the engine mount up properly? Can you just disconnect front drive shafts and leave them? Will gearbox fit? I pretty much know nothing, so any help would be great. Thanx guys, Mike

I just read that link, and I agree. Thinner is better, for daily street use anyway. I use fully synthethic in my RB25, and have since the day i got it

Cheers guys. I thought they'd only sell to you if you proved you had one. lol Dont i feel like an ass I'll give em a call in the new year

Is it even possible to get new Genuine nissan GTR frontbars if you dont have an Aus delivered GTR? When i ring nissan, they want a VIN number before they will help. And considering i own an imported Gts-t, i dont get very far. Can anyone help?

Hey guys. Can someone pls try HCR32011439 Thanxs heaps, Mike

Not as such, but i've heard that its pretty tricky to do without breaking it. I'm not sure how accurate this is though, it might have just been the panelbeater spinning sh*t so he could charge more

And also, these NISMO white faced gauges are 320kph and 11 grand tacho, as opposed to the stock 180kph and 9 grand tacho. Do you have to change cogs/gears at the back or somethin?? Sorry if this has been covered before, just wondering

I totally agree. How many ppl are out there driving imports obeying the road laws?? A shitload more than than there are drifting everywhere they go. You just dont notice them as much cos they dont stand out. It only takes 1 n00b for you to notice and get pissed off at, and that is what sticks in your head. Stop generalising. But........at the same time There is no point going nuts over this. No matter what anyone says, or does, there is always gunna be ppl out there that do stupid shit in stupid places at stupid times in the heat of the moment. (I'll admit i'm occasionally one of them). But its up to them to learn for themselves. Whether they get dicked and rorted by the cops, or they stack and hurt themselves, their car, or god forbid someone else, it doesn't matter. Everyone grows up someday, and for different reasons. Ragging them out doesn't help much, it just gets ppl worked up over nothing. And in some cases, makes them do it more often, cos your giving them the attention they want. IMO anyway. Back to the main topic: I know you cant change or predict the weather too well, especially on track days, but i always found it easier learning on wide grippy tires, but in the wet. You can enter corners slow as, and your reactions speeds dont need to be anywhere near as fast or precise. A quick clutch kick, or hand brake, and you can then just play the throttle and sail around. Almost any diff will still hold a dead slide in the wet (in case you overcook entry). Just make sure you take it easy. As you get better, slowly step it up, and take what you know to the dry. But then again, this is just what i reckon, and i'm certainly no pro. I still got heaps to learn myself

Still looking. Any colour will do. Genuine one is WAY to expensive, and im not to keen on a fibreglass copy. Cheers guys

pm sent

pm sent

Drift is phat!!!

I'm quite interested, but only if the road gets closed off. I am also not too keen on losing license, and/or killing/injuring/scaring the crap out innocent drivers. Great roads up there. I did a few buller runs in mid January earlier this year with a few mates on motorbikes, but there is more traffic than expected (well, than i expected anyway).

Heys guys. Looking for an R32 GTR frontbar. Any colour. I'm in SE suburbs, Melbourne, but will pay good money, and all freight. Pls PM me if you can help Cheers, Mike

Awesome thread Paul. Well done. More info than i'll ever need. Just a thought for anyone with a blown Power FC, that is having probs getting it fixed: The boys down at 'Access Autoworks' in Vermont, Melbourne (used to be in conjuction with 'Hypertech', who now no longer exist) may be able to help out. Only reason I say this is because i have an ECR33 Power FC currently on its way to Japan to be fixed up. It was blown when trying to install into my R32 GTS-T with RB25 transplant (Jap conversion) and wiring was up the creek. So if you cant get one fixed, rather than throwing it out, or buying new one, give them a try.

pm sent