camr33

Yeah, I did some research prior to purchasing and spoke to a couple of others who've done it. Already have the intercooler sorted too. Just need to work out engine management, injectors and fuel pump next.

Sorry guys, I should have been more specific. The turbo setup is coming from a VQ25 DET and will be fitted to my VQ35. I actually had a chat last night with someone that's done it and looks like it's relatively straight forward. I've already committed to the purchase, so a build thread may be incoming...

Hi guys, the opportunity has come up to buy the turbo, manifolds, dump pipe etc from an M35 Stagea for pretty cheap. I've read that this setup bolts straight up to a V35 coupe but cant really find much info on the matter. Has anyone done this, or confirm it can actually be done?

Z1 mororsports or Concept Z will ship to Australia. Prepare to fork out the big bucks though.

I've read that the early 6mt's have gearbox issues, but i'm yet to meet anyone that's actually had a problem. I've known of a few guys with turbo or supercharger setups still running the stock clutch and flywheel without issue. Overall though, they're pretty reliable cars. The only things I've had to do with my 03 model in the last 4 years is replace the bushes and valve covers. The 05, 06 versions are a lot less common which may have something to do with the oil burning issue. All the guys in the states complain about it non-stop. The interior is a bit nicer though.

Post your question on a few of the VQ Facebook pages, like VQ Australia, VQ sales and swap Australia, V35 society australia etc. A few wreckers use those pages. A transmission or some advice shouldn't be hard to find, you just need to know where to look.

I had mine done through pedders in Cannington, $417 including alignment. Their service was good and they know what they're doing with V35's.

Not my first time posting the results of my fun times down the strip, and certainly not going to be my last. Please see my video below documenting my adventures. After setting a PB of 14.2 @ 159kph back in October 2017, I decided to take my 2003 V35 back to the Perth Motorplex back in may before they closed up for the winter. The car should have been in great form- freshly serviced, a set of splitfire coilpacks (installed after the car threw a code) and some stainless steel test pipes (shedding 16kg of weight alone). I was gunning for a 14 flat, maybe even a high 13, but alas it was not meant to be. Despite a higher top speed (160+), I lost 2/100ths of a second and kept running 14.4's all night. It appears the car has picked up in the top end, but the 60ft times suffered. Where I was redlining 3rd previously, I still had an extra 500rpm up my sleeve. The only things to do now would be a tune, and maybe a 3:65 manual diff, so with bonus time coming up at work, that's what I'm planning for. But at least I know there is room for improvement! Mods as current: Apexi single 3" exhaust Stainless straight pipes Plenum spacer Injen short ram intake Grounding wire kit Splitfire coilpacks Tein coilovers Godspeed front/rear swaybars Factory Rays 19x8/19x8.5 forged rims with Achilles ATR Sport 2 tyres Please have a watch of the video and feel free to leave your thoughts below.

Running factory forged Rays 19x8/19x8.5 wheels. Cant remember the exact type of tyres, but they were Achilles that a lot of clubsport owners tend to use. Have considered a shift-kit in the past, but can't see it make a huge difference TBH.

My mate managed to run 14.3 in his VE SS commodore a few years ago, with a terminal speed of 162kph. So clearly my top end is hurting me (still pretty stoked that a car with a 60kw+ power disadvantage could manage to keep par). I noticed last time around, the car was about to redline as I crossed the finish, whereas the first time I went, it was sitting around 6000rpm. I would definately say I have reached the limit of what the car can do at this point of time.

Yeah, I was very happy to run 14.3. I increased my tyre pressure to around 36psi (from about 30), so I'm wondering if this helped. I had no traction issue either time, which is why I decided to run it a bit higher. Rear tyres were brand new Achilles, which were recommended as I was having traction issues in the wet. My first night was 14.6 @ 156kph and second night was 14.3 @ 158, so there was only 2kph difference despite a fairly big time gap. The time sheet showed a similar 60ft time, but the 660ft speed was about 4kph difference. Overall, it didn't seem like a particularly fast run either, but I dont think it would have managed much faster TBH. The terminal speed was about .5kph slower than another run i did that night, so a 159kph pass would not have been out of the question. I think I have launching down good, as well as manual shifting, but 3rd gear is where the turbos seemed to have their advantage. Overall though, I'm proud of the result.

See attached time sheet above. I do have it on video, so I may chuck it up after work.

So, just an update. I decided to give it another crack under better conditions to see how it went. I went down on a chilly night on 10/05/17 after doing the 100k service (new plugs and oil) and saw massive improvements. Best run of the night was 14.3 @ 158kph. I was much happier with this result, especially since it's only a mildly modified car. I beat 2 R34's and an R33, and the look on all their faces at the end was priceless. Terminal speed could still do with some improvement (across all runs, the turbo skylines had a final speed at least 10kph faster than me). I'm fairly confident some HFC's, headers and an uprev tune would see me break into the 13's. The car really lacks at top end. Another V35 was there that night, and was running 14.7-9s, and a 350z was running very low 15's but was unable to crack the 14's. time sheet.pdf

Final run of the night

V35 Drag Racing Hi everyone, As we are all aware, there are plenty of videos out there of R series Skylines running the quarter mile, but not a lot about the humble V35 350 GT. For obvious reasons, they are not often considered for drag/track applications, especially against other boosted JDM imports. When the Perth Motorplex held a Nissan VS Honda theme night (not a fair match-up, I know...) in March 2017, where you could run your Honda or Nissan for $20, I thought "bugger it", and decided to give it a crack. Ill start with a bit about the car first- My Skyline is a 2003 coupe, with a 5 speed A/T gearbox. I have owned the car for 2.5 years and am the first Australian owner. It has the following mods- Tein coilovers, Godspeed front/rear sway bars, vented/slotted rotors, Injen CAI, Mace engineering 12mm plenum spacer and an Apexi 3" catback exhaust. I did a fair bit of research prior to running. According to "experts" on G35 Driver, they should be running around 14.7 dead stock. I was expecting 14.4 to 14.5 based on my mods, if these "experts" were correct. Boy was I surprised- my first run, with my brother riding shotgun and a full tank of fuel, netted a disappointing 15.050 @ 150.46kph, in full automatic mode (with power set to on). I also forgot to turn off VDC until my third run, which may have also cost a bit of time. For the next run, I booted my brother out of the car and saw an immediate improvement to 14.860 @ 152.67 kph. Still disappointing, but I knew I could definitely shave a bit of time by shifting manually as the car was shifting into 4th just before the finish line. I knew if I held it in third, I could squeeze a few extra kph out of it. I decided to let my brother have a run next as per the video below. We still lost, but we were constantly seeing improvement in each run. I believe he ran a 14.8, which was excellent considering I was in the car. He had an excellent launch too. Apologies in advance, as there is a bit of coarse language. My third run suffered from a boggy launch, and a limiter bash in second, so I only managed 14.975 @ 153.87 kph. I cant blame my brother for that one, as he wasn't in the car. My last run was the best of the night. My brother captured it on his camera, so I will link it in the comments once I have obtained it off him. My final run was 14.678 @ 156.03 kph. My car had finally achieved (and slightly bettered) what the "experts" said it should have done. I was very happy with that run, and decided to call it a night. I let my brother have another run, where he managed 14.7xx (again, I will link it in the comments once I have transferred it). By the end. I was fairly happy, especially when I learned that the two 350z's that were there only managed mid to low 15's. Is there room for improvement? For sure. Perth temps suck at that time of the year in the early evening. The temp was still in the mid to high 20's and it was humid as buggery. As many of you will agree, these conditions have a detrimental impact on performance on our cars. I also went down with a full tank of fuel- this would be the equivalent of carrying another passenger in the car. Considering I gained 2/100ths of a second by dropping a passenger, another run with low fuel and colder temps could see a considerable improvement. I may even possibly see the 14.4 or 14.5 I was chasing. When I uploaded my video to Youtube, I came across a few G35 and 350z quarter mile runs, and they were all running in the 15's. It just goes to show that you cannot always believe what you read on the internet, and that a "textbook" run is something that trained drivers achieve under ideal circumstances. I hope this info helps, as there was not a lot out there about what these cars can do.

Yeah it's at the back of the engine. You may need to take the engine cover off to get a good look at it, from memory.

Its a series one coupe with the 5 speed auto. It is not a GT8 (shudder).

V35 automatic transmission problem Hi, Ive had my 350 GT coupe for a couple of year and its been pretty smooth sailing. However, I recently had an issue when I was driving home from work on xmas eve. As I was exiting a roundabout, I heard (moreso felt?) a thunk from the automatic transmission. The car would free-rev until about 4000rpm, then would throw you back into the seat with explosive acceleration. I pulled over and shut the car off for about 30 seconds. When I started ot up again, the AT check light was flashing at me like a maniac for a few seconds before switching off. I was able to drive home without any problems. A few days later, it did the same thing, however it happened when reversing out of a parking space and engaging drive. This time, there was no noise and the low down throttle response was better. Online investigation on G35 driver etc indicates the car is locking 3rd gear as some sort of limp mode. This problem has come on suddenly, and the transmission works fine during regular use. Tiptronic mode works fine- the problem only now seems to happen when engaging drive. The AT light flashes a total of 16 times. From what Ive read, this particular error code is not logged in the ecu, therefore a diagnostic is useless. I had the transmission fluid replaced about 9 months ago as I am the first Aus owner of the car and didnt know when it was last done. When replaced, the old fluid was still really good. A few topics on G35 driver where people have had the same issue advised a transmission service, including changing the filter, fixed the issue. There has been a slight whine from the transmission when the car is first started in the morning- it sounds like someone using a whipper snipper at the end of the street, and fades in and out. This noise disappears after about 30 seconds and is very quiet. I have tried to record it, but cannot be heard when played back. Long story short- has anyone experienced a similar issue? I dont have the money to fork out hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars trying to diagnose what the issue could be. So far, it could be a service issue, a faulty sensor, some sort of pump in the tranny is on it's way out, or my transmission is outright stuffed (I don't think it is due to the way it drives and shifts). Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Cream interior is rare and pretty desirable. I would suggest keeping it if its in good condition.

My car was i ported with 78,000km just over 2 years ago. I purchased directly from an importer who was able to provide me with the de-registration papers to verify the mileage. This was important, beacuse in Japan they register the car every two years and the km are recorded each time, so you can tell if the mileage at the time of deregistration is consistant with the last time it was registered. I was lucky as well that a workmate had a contact in the import industry, who was based in Japan, who verified the car had never been in an accident. Unfortunately log books are very rare on imports and I dont even have one on mine. I had a sticker on the intake advising the last service was done at 77k kms. I didnt believe this sticker and serviced the engine, transmission and diff. Unfortunately I was wrong, as all the drained fluids were brand new, and I could have saved myself several hundred dollars on servicing costs. It could be that I purchased one of the only honest cars from Japan... But to be fair, in the first 12 months, I had to replace the air con and power steering belts, front and rear brake rotors and pads. In the last 12 months I have replaced the diff bush, lower control arm bushes and swaybar end links. The car came with Tein coilovers- the front split a seal and cost me 800 to fix around 18 months ago. My rears just had the same thing happen, and I am about to send them to Fulcrum in QLDto be repaired. I still need ro replace the radial bushes, which will cost nearly $600 (as you need a 4 wheel alignment as well). My point is that you are buying a relatively old car, and it is at the age where things start to fail. If the previous owner has fixed a lot of these issues, then go for it. If not, get an independant inspection done. Other common issues are cam sensor failure, faulty airbag codes, worn wheel bearings and power window modules. If the mileage seems to good to be true, check for worn floor mats, steering wheels, kick plated and door handles etc as telltail signs. Truth be told, every time you buy an import, you are taking a punt. They are fantastic cars, very underrated and very reliable. I have pwned other imports, including an R33 and R34 turbo skyline, and V35's are in a league of their own. My advice is to take your time, do your research, and make sure you buy the right car- dont just shop for price. Hope this helps.

This is a common problem with low cars. There not much you can do to reinforce them. I would suggest replacing them asap as you will be losing back pressure and power through your exhaust. Aftermarket parts may be more durable.

Thanks for the response. The V LSD is exactly what im after, am I correct in assuming this will allow you to spin both wheels on a brake stall?

V35 Auto diff upgrade Hi all, apologies if this has been answered before, but I am looking at upgrading the stock diff in my 2003 V35 auto coupe. I dont really want to spend big money on getting a Quafe 2 way from the states, but I have heard that a manual V35 or 350z diff would do the trick. Would there be any improvements/drawbacks from using the manual diff? Can anyone shed any light on this?

Hey mate, check out the following Facebook pages if you're not on them already- VQ Australia: https://www.facebook.com/groups/V35OZ/?ref=bookmarks Nissan V35 & 350z parts Australia- https://www.facebook.com/groups/1520963988140221/?ref=bookmarks V35 Society- https://www.facebook.com/groups/180241625461967/ You should hopefully be able to find what you're after there.