mikel

so I have a sandwich plate with 2 hoses connected to a remote oil cooler (the silver braided hoses in the foreground), and 2 possible (currently blanked off) ports on the sandwich plate to take an oil temp reading from - I'd prefer to take the reading from the port before it goes to the cooler - how do I determine which port that is? cheers, Mike

I didn't crack the bottle...after your post I just went and looked again - for some reason it has a blue tinge when looking at the liquid through the transparent strip on the side of the bottle, but splash it up the strip and it's green... Thanks heaps for the part number - that makes things way easier to get a new one if required ? And watching your video, removing the thermostat housing seems harder than removing the block drain plug! Also on a quick scan with a torch, the thermostat housing still doesn't appear to be low enough in the block to get all the old coolant out - hard to see much, but it's higher than the oil filter... ...I guess that's why the Nissan manual says to remove the block plug Well done again on the great tutorial video - I've watched it many times now. I laugh every time when you pull the block drain plug out - the couple of expletives (completely justified) contrast so well with the rest of the "no voice over" approach - and the final bit in the dark...clearly not a quick job! I still want to know what your household members thought about the thermostat in the kettle??? or did they never know?? cheers Mike

I've decided the best option is to tackle that block drain plug - the current coolant is green, and my 5 litre Nissan LLC bottle contains blue stuff...I don't want to contaminate the Nissan LLC blue coolant goodness. The Nissan manual specifies "3 Bond 1386B" for the thread on the block drain plug, which of course my local auto parts store doesn't stock From a search on the Googleweb, "3 Bond 1386B" is a welch plug sealant - can any product that's labelled for use as a "welch plug sealant" be used? Guidance on suitable products sold at places like Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco would be very helpful? cheers Mike

I understand your post now - my confusion was around the ability for the Engine Guardian EG2 to measure 2 different temperatures (ie from 2 temperature sensors). I PM'd @Dose Pipe Sutututu and he sent me a link for the EG3 - which does manage 2 sensor inputs ? I also got a quick response from Carsensors.com overnight on email confirming the same thing. The EG3 takes 2 temp sensors in either 1/8 NPT or bolt on. For AU$169 it's worth trying out... I'll likely get 2 x NPT and 1 bolt on sensor to give me the option of any 2... ...While typing this post, I've been email conversing with Carsensors.com and I've just purchased an EG3 - AU$153 with a direct PayPal transaction - delivered with 2 x NPT temp sensors + 1 x bolt on temp sensor. I'll need some more bits to fit it, but I'll wait till it arrives to work out what's required...one of those inline housings for the top radiator hose for sure, but here's hoping the oil temp NPT sensor will just screw into the existing oil filter sandwich plate...or maybe I'll need an adaptor. I've also got Nissan LLC coolant ready to go in, so it makes sense to do the coolant temp sensor + oil temp sensor + gauge install and change oil and coolant all at the same time (well likely over 2 weekends) I've got Happy Laps in a couple of weeks and I've just put fresh oil in, so I think I'll wait till after that to fit everything...Happy Laps isn't too hard on the car compared to a proper track day or the drags... cheers Mike

I get that the gauge and sensor is the same for measuring both oil and coolant temp - but it's best to have a gauge setup where you can check oil temp independently from coolant temp right? Mike

cheers guys, agreed - but how do I determine which way mine is setup? prob something I'll think about when I do an ECU upgrade... ...but sounds like oil temp, oil pressure, and coolant temp are the basics to start with... I couldn't find oil temperature mentioned on their site - only "engine temperature" which I assume is coolant temperature? but your post says 2 sensors, so can it measure both oil temperature and coolant temperature? I like the idea of a buzzer, as I cooked a head when the water pump failed on my previous engine, and things can go wrong quickly under that scenario, even if keeping a good eye on the gauges. Unfortunately not an option in my case - I'm running a Turbotech bleed valve The EG2 is an inexpensive option for a coolant temp gauge, even better if it can do do oil temps also?? but it doesn't seem so from what I can find? I'm thinking decent brand Oil Pressure, Oil Temp and Water Temp gauges - and looking at the VDO website, the 52mm diam gauges would fit in the convenient spot under the stereo head unit - not ideal for viewing in the middle of a hot lap of course - but better than the tacho position on the HK Monaro - what were Holden thinking? If cabling permits on the stereo, I could move the head unit down and have the gauges above, which would be better - still not ideal, but should be fine for a street car that doesn't see much track use. The sandwich plate on my oil filter has two spare ports - I'm assuming there's no such thing as a combined oil pressure/temperature sensor? and a temp sensor goes in one and a pressure sensor in the other? (temp sensor preferably in the line to the oil cooler, not from), or do you take oil pressure from elsewhere? Apologies for noob questions... cheers Mike

Hi guys, I did some searches, and got some useful info...but need some more, hence this thread. I've got a 1997 R33 series 2 GTST with a mostly stock Neo motor and Power FC ECU and I'd like to get a better idea of what's going on inside the engine regarding oil/water temps etc beyond what the standard R33 gauges provide. What are the key metrics/parameters I should keep an eye on for a street car that sees occasional track work? - I'm assuming accurate engine oil and water temps would be the priority, but are there others (eg oil pressure)? Does a 1997 R33 Series 2 have an OBD2 connector I could get the water temp from? (with a Power FC)? I've got a remote oil cooler that has the sandwich plate on the engine that the oil filter mounts to - it appears to have a port on the side that could take an oil temp sensor. Apologies for the poor photo focus - I've circled the port on the sandwich plate I think would take an oil temp sensor. The two braided lines in the foreground run to the oil cooler. What's recommended as an aftermarket sensor/gauge solution for oil temp...and likely a big stretch - is there any way to get this data to the OBD2 port (assuming my R33 has one, and PFC etc)? Happy to install some "old school" gauges for water and oil temp if required, but connectivity via OBD2 has lots of advantages if it's possible...I realise my car is 22 years old and OBD2 was just coming in...and it has a PFC cheers Mike

dragging up and old but very useful thread... great tutorial - well done! What did the other members of the household think about testing the thermostat in the kitchen kettle??? ? Is there any way to get the old coolant out of the block without removing the block drain plug? I've read in other threads you can remove the thermostat housing and thermostat and use a hose and tap water and flush out the block using the thermostat entry - but on a quick check with a torch tonight it looks like the thermostat housing is nowhere near the bottom of the block? so you'd end up with tap water in the block, and even parked downhill the thermostat housing looks too high to drain all the water/coolant from the block? Given the difficulty of accessing both the block drain plug and thermostat housing, I'm leaning towards dumping the radiator fluid, refilling with radiator flush + demineralised water and repeat a few times, then put Nissan LLC concentrate + demineralised water in... ...or doing the same, but going to the effort of getting to that biatch block plug for the first drain and the last before the Nissan LLC concentrate goes in, and not touching the thermostat housing (in some respects the thermostat looks harder than the block plug - ie remove stuff/3 bolts/clean surfaces/new gaskets or goop etc) My question is - if I don't remove the block drain plug, will that turn 2 flushes into 5 or 6 (or more) to get the old coolant out? Is it worth dealing with the block plug to get a better cooling system flush with less repeats of flush/demineralised water required? cheers Mike

Just did my oil, and my driveway isn't flat, so there's a bit of guesswork involved in the level. Took the old oil back to Supercheap for recycling and checked it again on the flat after letting it sit for 5 min - just below the top mark ? I thought it would need a bit more, as the 5litre bottle seemed to have quite a bit left. What is the danger in over filling? I've heard others mention "a bit" over the top mark is fine - is this true? should you never exceed the top line? cheers Mike

next one - hopefully in 3 years He was self employed and chooses to sell that brand of battery because he regards them as reliable so he doesn't get issues... ...I get what you're saying - but I don't expect him to be "on my side" - he provided a good service, and Australian Consumer Law is "on my side" if it fails < 3 years cheers Mke

mmmm - I shoulda read the fine print - interestingly the guy that installed the battery reckons he's never had a warranty claim on the Platinum batteries...we'll see how it goes...receipt photographed and stored. I'll be happy if it lasts 3 years - if it fails before that there will be a discussion with the installer - but I get the pro-rata thing - batteries have a "service life" and wear out. Same with tyres/oil/brake fluid/brake pads etc etc. If a battery failed 1 day before the 3 year warranty expired I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to provide me a new battery for free. If it fails within 6 months that's a different discussion... cheers, Mike

My R33GTST has an alarm system, so there's always some residual current draw even with the car off - my car doesn't get driven much, so it lives on a battery charger getting trickle charged most of the time unless I know I'm driving it again the next day. Sometimes it won't get driven for months, so the battery charger is a necessity! I never seem to get more than 3-4 years from a battery - I just put my 4th battery in today across 12 years of ownership of my R33. On a search here on SAU I found an (old) thread recommending the NS40ZLS, and the same recommendation on the Century Battery website for an R33. The Century NS40ZLS has a Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of 330, the Repco NS40ZLS has a CCA of 270 (Extra Heavy Duty) - IMHO neither has a high enough CCA for reliable starting, especially for an R33 which has the battery in the boot - don't get me wrong - I love the fact that the R33 has its battery in the boot from factory - but you will get some some additional voltage drop between the battery and the starter motor with a boot mounted battery. I'm not bagging out Century or Repco - but I recall the the first battery I used for a replacement back in 2007 was an Odyssey with over 400 CCA. Fast forward several batteries, and discovering my current battery dead this morning (installed in 2015 so it did OK) I went looking for a new battery. After the usual web search and a few phone calls, I ordered an NS60 Powercrank with 465 CCA through one of the Brisbane mobile guys. Did a re-measure and determined the length on the earth cable was too short for the height of the NS60 battery form factor...I remember similar issues back in the 2007 Odyssey install and moving the bracket up on the chassis (so 1 bolt not 2), but moved back on later batteries that were shorter... I never got around to getting a longer cable made ☹️ The mobile battery guy suggested a lower form factor (DIN55), which also had higher CCA (555 amps) and it fit nicely - it cost me an extra $20 for the extra CCA - and got the Skyline back on the road in the same day (today), as opposed to getting a longer cable made by an auto elec sometime next week - although I really should just go and get a slightly longer cable made. The battery is a Platinum DIN55CMF with a 3 year warranty - I'll see how it goes. Mike

thanks goes to @Duncan for the diagram so I could get the clearance right when re-installing the switch, and @Dose Pipe Sutututu and @duffmansbrew for where to get the replacement bit ? Biatch of a job under there - removing the switch makes it "easier". I used a smidge of silicon grease on the hole to help the rubber bit slip in, and a flat blade screwdriver for a bit of leverage - it doesn't need force, it's just in an awkward spot. Thanks again SAU! cheers Mike

Thanks Lithium, The oil/water lines don't sound like that big an issue, but no IWG for the T3 flange sounds like a new exhaust manifold and maybe dump pipe is required whichever way I go to fit a G25-550 to my RB25? stay with a T3 flange G turbo which would require an external wastegate, so new manifold and new dump go to another flange for the G turbo that has an IWG (I'm not sure what those options are) - which won't mount to my existing exhaust manifold, so either a new exhaust manifold, or maybe an adapter plate, with fabrication to make the dump fit It all sounds a long way from an easy fit to get a G25-550 to work on my RB25 - as much as I've lusted after a 6Boost manifold with an external 'gate for years...realistically a lot of work/cost compared to a direct swap for my HKS2530... ...I realise this is the G series thread, so an "off topic" question, but what "close to direct swap" options are there for an old HKS2530 that provide good response and around 250-280 RWKW on a NEO RB25? cheers Mike

Hi guys, I'm looking to upgrade my aging HKS 2530 turbo on my stockish RB25 R33 and a colleague recommended looking at the Garrett G series. I did a search in the "RB25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results" page for "Garrett G" but didn't get any hits. I'm looking for a streetable turbo for an R33GTST with a NEO motor - around 280 RWKW with good response. My current HKS2530 makes a bit over 230kW. (edit: P98, 555 injectors, Power FC, FMIC but return pipe, hard intake pipe, Walbro fuel pump) I was previously looking at the Hypergear ATR45 with the ball bearing CHRA, but my colleague is recommending a "G series" for power and response...preferably a direct swap with my low mount HKS2530 (IWG etc). Is a "G series" the go? cheers Mike

I run 230 odd kw on a street R33 and it’s loads of fun - my old HKS 2530 is a bit laggy, so there’s not much happening below 3000rpm. Give it some stick, and when the power comes in you’re not looking at the tacho! In reality a newer turbo with less lag would be better for me, and I’d likely get more hp...but I have no funds for car upgrades, and it’s so much fun to drive as it is...especially for passengers not used to boost I’ve not driven a +300kw car so I have no reference to the “normal” modified Skyline - my “puny” 230kW is loads of fun for a street car. Mike

You didn’t say where you lived? If in Sydney or near Newcastle I can recommend Anthony (Guilt Toy) for tuning. I live in Brisbane and now drive to Newcastle to see Anthony for anything requiring a dyno. He will get the best out of your 3076 ! Mike

Thanks guys Ordered the bit today Cheers Mike

gotta love SAU! My brake lights were on when I came home yesterday - figured it was most likely the switch, but did a search on SAU and bingo! Even found the bits on the carpet, but wow it's tight under there - a quick look last night and another this morning, I was able to push the button in to prove the fault, but didn't have time to try an maneuver a 5c piece or similar in to activate the switch, or disconnect the connector...so the brake lights stayed on - got home tonight and the bulbs are blown - I should have disconnected them at the tail lights in the boot! Not surprising in hindsight - cautionary tale - of course brake lights won't cop being on for 24hrs - they burn bright when required but aren't designed to stay on. At the time I was more concerned with flattening the battery, so had the battery charger on. No biggy, bulbs are cheap... I'm more concerned with the contortionist activity required under the dash to fix the switch - likely I'll have to remove the driver's seat to give me more room... The glued 5c piece option sounds dodgy, but actually looks the best solution compared to swapping the switch assembly including disconnecting/reconnecting the connector...getting to it is tricky - admittedly I was holding a torch in one hand, so a fixed light source and 2 hands would help. Is the rubber grommet piece available as a spare part - preferably without buying the whole switch? Pushing a new grommet in looks even easier than the glued 5c piece (not that anything is easy under the dash ) I'm wary of doing any mods to the braking system (or in this case the brake light system) - am I being too paranoid or appropriately cautious? The car is not a daily and can stay off the road for a bit. cheers Mike

they did good work for me and reasonably priced - I will go back there again for further work I need. cheers Mike

Got the piece from Idealseat and had it fitted by Archerfield Auto and Marine Upholsterers http://www.upholsterers-brisbane.com.au/ Cost $100 to fit, and $103 delivered for the piece from Idealseat. Nice work - you can't tell it's not original. I've no idea what a Recaro costs (mine came with my car) - but $203 for a good repair avoids more landfill. cheers Mike

Serious question - why did you swap out the lock bar instead of replacing the ball joints and keeping the old lock bar? It sounds like the OP needs to address more than just an install of a HICAS lock bar if the ball joints are already worn which would allow the rear wheels to flop around even with a lock bar... ....slightly off topic - if a lock bar is installed while the HICAS ball joints are still in good condition, would it be correct that the HICAS ball joints do so little work after the lock bar is installed (particularly in relation to all the other suspension components) that they're unlikely to wear out? or would they wear out at the same rate as without a lock bar? Hi Ash, In a different thread it was highlighted to me how good the factory wheel bearings are, so to flog the bearings on one wheel indicates a problem that needs addressing - it could be just the HICAS ball joints, or something else as others have already mentioned in this thread. Consider getting a suspension specialist to check over your rear end - many will quote for free, then you can post up what they recommend. Wear and small alignment issues can make a big difference. After I installed my HICAS lock bar and lifted the car on the coilovers, I got a local suspension place to do a front and rear wheel alignment, requesting a couple of mm of "Toe In" on the rear, as per recommendations on this forum (very good drivers often use 0mm "Toe In" on the rear - bumblies like me are best off with a few mm of rear "Toe In"). On my next track day, the car didn't feel quite right, and I even managed to spin a couple of times in the same spot after coming through a low spot on the track with some water. Very soon after I installed @Sydneykid's suspension package, and had a different suspension shop do the alignment. When I picked the car up, the suspension guy mentioned that when the car came in the rear had a few mm of "Toe Out" on the rear, that he'd now adjusted to "Toe In". I thought this may have been me not tightening the connections properly on the HICAS lockbar, and he pointed out that if they had loosened off, that would increase "Toe In", not "Toe Out" - the first suspension place had adjusted the "rear toe" in the wrong direction! - "Toe Out" instead of "Toe In". As per my previous post, I would recommend deleting the HICAS with a lock bar, but get the rest of the rear suspension checked at the same time, and replace parts that are worn, including worn bushes. Interestingly IME, Nolathane bushes appear to have a relatively short life - they're good for performance, and required over OEM rubber bushes if "offset" bushes are desired to improve angles at the front end - but they seem to wear out faster. Fine for me - my car doesn't do many miles - and I'm happy to swap Nolathane with Nolathane when bushes wear to keep the handling taught - others I know (not Skyline owners) have gone back to OEM rubber bushes over Nolathane - particularly where offset bushes aren't needed (I'm not aware of rubber bushes being available in different offsets like Nolathane bushes are). Your concern is the rear end - no offset bushes are required there - your call on Nolathane or rubber replacement bushes. cheers Mike

have you got an update? was the upgrade fit up easy? how are the Intima pads? cheers, Mike

A different perspective is my recent experience, where even with minimal horsepower (~205 KW), a bad tune and tuner wrecked my bottom end. It was never a good idea to slap a NEO head onto an R33 bottom end, but 2 workshops (the 1st workshop put the head on and dyno'd it, then another did further work and dyno'd it) never mentioned anything about not putting a NEO head on an R33 bottom end. 2 years later and the compression across the cylinders was all over the place and the bottom end was wrecked. Probably less due to tune than tuner - but they go together. The cautionary tale is that these engines (any engine) can be damaged with poor tunes and tuners - even at modest horsepower. @Chris90 and many others have shown that the standard RB25 can take significant horsepower when tuned well. In Chris's case - he knows he's pushing the boundaries - well done - after all if one pops he just sources another! cheers Mike

wow $20K spent on bolt ons and keep an "un-opened" motor - is that just for bragging rights? Neo motors are stronger than R33 RB25s "out of the box" so that's the way to go in this context. As other's have said above, "it's all about the tune" to keep the motor safe (safe-ish) at those HP figures - and running E85 (E87? I don't know what that is?) as you've done is the way to go for ethanol's resistance to detonation. Impressive horsepower - well done! cheers Mike