mikel

Thanks GTSBoy, Are any of those possible without taking too many bits off? Happy to do it - just never done it - the last car I mucked with the engine had spark plug leads, a dizzy and a holly carby... We're entering a new area here - my car came with the Apexi PFC from Japan, so I've no idea what a Nistune is, but I assume it's a mod on the factory ECU?? I'll need to do some research as to where/who can do the mod - but in your opinion that's better than staying with the Apexi PFC? ...part of me thinks going back to a 2nd hand R33 RB25 is a good idea - except I'm currently "in between" and there is likely an additional cost in going back to an R33 RB25 if I source a 2nd hand R33 RB25, so I may as well go forward to a NEO, if the costs are "close" fully installed. If I'm seeking a NEO with ECU, I'm clearly sourcing something different from a NEO motor - when I ring engine providers, what am I asking for? A NEO with wiring harness and ECU? cheers Mike

thanks @Kinkstaah, @GTSBoy, @Dose Pipe Sutututu, @Scott Black, @discopotato03, for your detailed responses... clearly there's been some level of modifications done (by tuner #1 that put the head on) just to get the bloody NEO head working in the first place, so I'm in a bit of "unknown" place as to what they did - injectors and coil packs weren't changed that I'm aware of. I just went and checked, the CAS is a NEO CAS - apologies for previous incorrect information. Tuner #2 (my ex current tuner) mentioned that the intake manifold was different on a NEO compared to an R33 RB25, so on a 2nd hand R33 RB25 they would use the "bottom half" (ie intake manifold below the crossover pipe) from the 2nd hand engine if installing an R33 RB25 - so the current intake manifold "may" be NEO, but it sounds like that would have required injector changes? So who knows where I am on the "in between R33 RB25 and NEO" situation?? I really appreciate your input guys - I just wish I'd sought it when tuner #1 recommended a NEO head !! Given where I'm at it sounds like the best option is: find a tuner/mechanic that has the ability to deal with the "in betweenness" of a NEO onto a R33 source a 2nd hand NEO engine and do a compression test/leakdown test prior to purchase (I'm not sure how feasible this is?) on the 2nd hand NEO, replace water pump, cam belt and other items @GTSBoy and @Scott Black suggested have the tuner/mechanic manage issues with looms, but use a NEO Coil Pack and Harness which should plug straight into the R33 loom When I look on the interweb for a locally available NEO motor such as this: https://www.asianautospares.com.au/collections/new-used-nissan-engines-japanese-imported-engines/products/nissan-rb25det-engine-neo-japanese-imported-engines Are there other "bits" I should be sourcing/ensure comes with the motor to make it easy to put a NEO 2nd hand engine into my R33? (eg coil packs/harness, inlet manifold, injectors)? Are there specific variants of a NEO motor I should seek or avoid - eg R34GTT vs Stagea etc? cheers Mike

a 2nd hand NEO motor is not much more expensive than an R33 RB25, so I could go with either....but does that complicate the changeover significantly? Will my Apexi Power FC work? are the wiring looms different? I don't want to complicate things too much Mike

what conversion would have been done to get the Neo head on in the first place that needs converting back? It all looks like an R33 RB25, including the CAS

agreed - with 20:20 hindsight, no decent mechanic/tuner would have "recommended" a NEO head on an R33 RB25 bottom end...and I should have sought advice from SAU before proceeding... Neither the shop that installed the head (and tuned on their dyno) or my normal tuner (who tuned afterwards on their dyno), highlighted the peril of a NEO head on an R33 RB25 - no reward for guessing I'm unlikely to go back to either... ...it is what it is, and I just need to sort the best option going forwards, and a 2nd hand engine or a "bunky" as @GTSBoycalls it, is likely the most appropriate option. For a 2nd hand engine, a colleague today suggested Asian Auto Spares in Slacks Creek (Brisbane) - they've been around for ages (he bought an SR20 from them >10 years ago) and they offer a warranty (1 month). Their website quotes $2500 for an RB25 (non Neo) - I haven't spoken to them yet re availability, ability to do a compression test etc etc. I'm interested in others' views on what should be replaced on a 2nd hand motor - timing belt and water pump are obvious candidates, but are there others? My current turbo is an HKS 25/30, ECU is an Apexi Power FC, boost controller is a Turbotech manual boost controller. This setup was running 235kw at the wheels previously at 1 bar boost - I'd like to get back to that at least, but may throw some injectors and a fuel pump in to get closer to 245 RWKW. I wouldn't push a "bunky" (2nd hand engine) past that (245-250 RWKW). cheers Mike

Cheers Scott, I agree, and am likely to head down this path. Currently researching appropriate engine supplier and workshop to do the swap. Any suggestions on reputable Brisbane companies people would recommend would be appreciated - but potentially could ship the motor from interstate if compression tests done prior yada yada and warrantied etc I'd be interested in whether people think it still worthwhile doing a leak down test on my current motor for a couple of hundred $ to confirm it's not head/top end related.. Similar for a 2nd hand engine - if the compression test is OK, is a leakdown or other tests necessary? cheers Mike

what Dose Pipe and GTSBoy are saying is that the NEO head should never have gone onto a factory RB25 bottom end - especially a bottom end with 140K km on it. That some cylinders are at 150 and not at 170 or so I can only assume is all whole bottom end has copped a flogging in the 15k km done since the NEO went on. It's always been down on power since the NEO went on, and that's possibly as they pulled timing out of it (2 different workshops) as it must have always been on the brink of detonation, leaving me with a lunched motor 15000km later. - rather than saying the NEO head is a bad idea on an R33 RB25. It is what it is - I just need to determine the best way forward - rebuild or swap in a 2nd hand RB25. If I re-build do I keep the Neo head, or source an R33 RB25 head. RB30 bottom end sounds interesting, but I'm sure it would be a lot more than $200 extra - crank and conrods would need changing surely? block also? If I rebuilt I'd be trying to re-use my crank and conrods, and only replace pistons, bearings and rings - my HP requirements aren't high - a reliable 250kW is fine. Mike edit: had a quick look at the RB30 sticky - one can pipe dream, but not realistic at this point in time

that's good thinking

Bloody NEO head, 20/20 hindsight etc... So I have a dilemma Existing tuner that I've been using for 10 years (they didn't put the NEO head on) recommends engine swap or rebuild: engine swap with a low km RB25 (approx 70,000km) sourced from Japan - > $5k parts and labour rebuild RB 25 with "good bits" ~ $10K parts and labour 2nd Opinion from another tuner, recommended by a colleague, but I have no direct experience engine swap ~ $1500 for motor, ~$2.5K labour, but no guarantee on the motor = $4K "basic" engine rebuild, forged pistons, re-use rods/crank/block, hone the bore, new bearings - $5k I need to get rid of that NEO head if I rebuild,unless I went stupid and built for E85 possible issue - cheers and if I went E85 a definite requirement... Right now I have $0 to spend, but will need to find the minimum required - In a choice between an "unknown" 2nd hand motor at $4K, and a basic engine rebuild at $5k - I'd lean towards the $5k "basc" rebuild option cheers Mike

I also have the NPC 10" clutch with NPC's lightened steel flywheel - I was very dubious of the benefit of a lightened flywheel - after all, the gearbox/diff/wheels hang off it... ...well it made a significant difference in 1st and 2nd...I hadn't factored in the gearing available at "the front end" of the gearbox - now I understand.. NPC was an easy choice for me, as they have a great reputation and are based in Brisbane, Australia like me...but the OP @HCD_Velcra is in Germany... ... @HCD_Velcra you guys have crazy tune up shops that surely can recommend an appropriate locally available clutch for 400HP - if not, Nismo twin plate cheers Mike PS - typically Nismo stuff is very good, it's not just a label - if you lived over here then I'd recommend NPC PPS - as others have said, your 400HP target is at the limit of organic clutches - once you move to other materials the take-up/feel moves towards how a light switch operates (ie on/off). My NPC organic clutch holds 315hp no problem, and the takeup feels like a normal car. I'm sure you can source similar in Germany.

well all bad news from the tuner they ran a compression test with number 4 way down (100) compression numbers were 150, 135, 130, 100, 150, 150 - 2 and 3 down also My tuner's recommendation is a rebuild or another 2nd hand motor...either is a significant cash investment Discussing with others since, some other tests are warranted - eg a leak down test and inspection of the bores/combustion chambers to: clarify if the issue is head/valve related rather than bottom end (rings etc) assist to diagnose why the engine started detonating in the first place Of note is that back in late 2014 the water pump failed and I cooked the head - long story short and it ended up with a NEO head on it and was re-tuned Prior to the water pump failing in 2014, it made 235kW at 15PSI boost, and ran that reliably since I imported the car in 2006. When the Neo head went on I had other issues with the boost controller and its been running around 10PSI boost since late 2015 and 200 RW kW. Compression across the cylinders was consistent - I don't remember what it was. Approx 15k km later I've got detonation issues, with 3 cylinders down on compression, one of which is way down. Obviously if I start down a (best case) of head removal or (worst case) engine swap/rebuild I need to know and fix what caused the detonation in the first place.. The engine still runs fine (currently), and I'm nursing it around when I need a car - it feels no different from before it started detonating - I'm just very careful now to watch the engine light and keep an ear out for detonation. ECU is an Apexi Power FC Turbo is an HKS 25/30 standard, but serviced/cleaned injectors I keep wondering if that Neo head was a bad idea back in 2014 - but the detonation issue is recent. Questions to you guys: other than carbon build up (unlikely after 15,000 km) and crap fuel (unlikely with numerous fresh tanks), what can cause ongoing detonation issues that just "start" to occur? ECU gone faulty? Injectors? faulty sensors? are there specific tests/diagnosis steps I should be asking my tuner to do before I start down the path of head off, or worse engine out? views on 2nd hand jap motors vs rebuild? You can go nuts on a rebuild of an RB25, but in my research so far a "standardish" rebuild with forged pistons, current rods/crank, new bearings/rings and a bore hone is "similar" in cost to a 2nd hand motor install - my power requirement is around 235 - 250 rwKW any recommendations for engine builders in Brisbane? Between my current tuner and a 2nd opinion from a different tuner today, the cost varied significantly. If I have to rebuild I'd like to ensure I get a good outcome - a reliable engine that could take say 300kW but makes 240-250 kW is fine. My HKS 25/30 turbo will be running out of puff at 240kW or so, and I'm still running standard injectors at the top end of their duty cycle at 235kW. cheers Mike

it's been happening across multiple tanks of fuel - mostly the same servo, but not always - always BP 98 I'll ask my tuner if they can do this - thanks lots of possibilities of course injectors were serviced/cleaned late 2015 and plugs changed at the same time, new CAS - the car has done <15K km since then. I'll see what the tuner says... Thanks for your input guys - greatly appreciated. cheers, Mike

detonation issues standard RB25DET My R33 GTST has developed some detonation under high load, low power street driving conditions - eg driving up my steep street at 40kmph in 3rd gear - engine light comes on, hear the rattle, back off the throttle and/or drop back to 2nd to stop the detonation - I try to be mechanically sympathetic with the old girl. The car went in to the tuner this morning to get it sorted and we discussed the detonation issue - on the dyno the detonation was able to be replicated, but it went on the dyno late in the day so she's having a sleepover to get it resolved. I read this thread with great interest The car has only recently started to detonate under high load/lowish revs conditions - and when I hear it or see the engine light come on, I back off and/or change gear. It's been daily driven on commuter runs for the last 12 months - almost no "spirited" driving to blow any carbon out. Not all stop/start traffic, some highway driving. Obviously I'll take guidance from my tuner, just seeking some input from SAU on: possible reasons why an engine would start to develop detonation issues (I always use BP Ultimate and use about a tank per week) sanity check what my tuner proposes - I've no idea yet - likely new plugs, which is fine, even though the current plugs have only done <10K km or so (Platinums) ECU is an Apexi Power FC, turbo is HKS 25/30, engine is a standard RB25DET. Definitely not looking to flame my tuner - I've been using them for a long time - I'm just trying to be better informed so I understand what my issues are and they're likely resolution. cheers Mike

was just surfing the DBA site - they recommend fluid is changed every 2 years - my fluid was much older than that And it came out pretty yucky doing the front pads. Unfortunately brake fluid absorbs moisture/water over time, which drastically reduces its boiling point, so hot brakes boils the fluid and brakes fade. Put brand new pads in with old fluid and the fluid will boil on the track for sure - less likely on the street, but a spirited drive through the hills could mean major fade coming back down that last hill Fortunately IME, brakes don't fade instantly, you start to feel a spongy pedal and it's time to back off and let things cool down. cheers mike

fair enough - I change my pads so seldom, it's always way beyond the recommended life of the fluid, so I always put fresh fluid in and pump it through whenever I change pads. Mike

nice call, thanks - I'll do that for the rears - got my new rotors today and will fit up pads and rotors this week

trying out Remsa pads, which are supposedly similar to TRW (I think the same company?) - good price $125 for a set (front and rear) Changed the front pads this morning, but I have some new rear rotors on the way thanks to Johnny ( @Dose Pipe Sutututu ), so will change the rear pads at the same time. Hats off to the Sumitomo/Nissan designers - the front entry design of the caliper is fantastic. The fronts were incredibly easy to change - hopefully the rears will be as easy... On Youtube videos I've watched, no-one seems to bother cracking the bleeder fitting to push the pistons back - I don't know why - the pistons go back much easier with less force with the bleeder cracked and a clear hose on the nipple into a waste bottle - I bleed the brakes afterwards anyway... Also some YouTube videos show the caliper being removed - this is not necessary with the front entry design of the calipers! (unless your changing rotors also) cheers Mike

will Castrol SAF-XA be ok in the stock diff? Mike

I didn't now that - I probably wasted money on SAF-XA. If the stock viscous LSD is sealed is there any oil in there? does it need maintenance? mike

I just changed mine today and used Castrol SAF-XA based on this thread Not sure if Sydneykid is still active on SAU, but his advice remains very useful. The filler hole is a biatch to get undone - especially with a big drain pipe exhaust in the way - make sure you can undo the filler plug before you drain the oil. It takes about 1.5 litres - so you need 2 bottles of Castrol SAF-XA - just keep filling until it leaks out. cheers Mike

thanks for that cheers Mike

Hi Cadmoon, advice from the Melbourne based IdealSeat Company - agents for Recaro in Australia - is that they can supply replacement parts for Recaro seats (depending on model). I sent them photos of my Recaro seat, and they replied that the replacement part for my seat (door side where you get in/out) was $90 plus delivery, and that any Motor Trimmer could fit it. I've spoken to several Brisbane based motor trimmers since then with various responses - the best was, "if you remove the seat and provide the replacement foam it will cost $90 to replace it". Approx $200 to fix is fine by me if it's done right - I'll let you know the outcome once it's done. cheers Mike

I got my RDA front rotors back in 2008 via the SAU group buy run by member rs73 - he hasn't been on SAU since May 2016. cheers Mike

hi guys, I don't want to start a brake pad review discussion - I've been reading the many pages of the Brake Pads User Ratings Guide - great info! I replaced my front rotors ages ago and installed TRW/Lucas pads at the same time - and was/am very happy with the performance of the TRW pads on the front. At the time the rears had plenty of pad left so I didn't change the rears Time for a front and rear pad change now. The car is mostly street driven with very occasional track use - I found the TRWs entirely capable for my needs. I would be happy to install TRW pads all round, but I can't seem to find TRW pads for the rear of my R33 GTST. TRW Part Number for front pads : GDB1269 I assume TRW make a rear pad, as I just watched a youtube vid of a rear brake pad change on an R33 4 door using TRW pads. If anyone can assist with the part number for TRW brake pads for the rears on an R33 GTST, that would be greatly appreciated? cheers, Mike

Recaro seat refresh - places in Brisbane? Hi guys, my Recaro drivers' seat needs a refresh - foam has collapsed on the door side where you get in/out. Any suggestions for Brisbane based companies that could restore my Recaro seat? cheers Mike