mikel

The first time I went I was in the 2nd or 3rd group - I was watching the first group do their laps and I was terrified at how fast they were going. Once I got out there I had an absolute ball - sure I was over taken, but it was the best fun I've ever had driving (including the drags and the hill climb at Mount Cotton). I can't wait for the next day on 23 Aug 07. My tips: - take a folding chair and a hat, and if it's hot you'll want shorts and a t-shirt to get into in between sessions (long pants/long sleeves are required for the circuit) - as per a previous post, take lunch and water. The Skyline club had a bar-b-que last time which was great, but I get hungry early. - take a tyre pressure gauge, and measure your pressures before and after each run - I found 36 cold/39 hot to be the best for my car (R33 GTST) - and don't trust the gauge on the air hose behind the pits- it reads too low - try not to change gears near the rev limiter all day, changing gears at 6000 rpm puts a lot less stress on your engine that 7000 rpm - you want to drive home. - take fuel if you can, but I nearly went through 2 tanks for morning and afternoon sessions, so I ducked down the road about 5 minutes for a full tank at lunch time - have fun - take it easy driving home -it feels very slow cheers, Mike

sounds like I need to take a close look at the selector forks also - thanks for the tip cheers Mke

I've just bought a lock bar for my GTST R33 and I'll install it before the next track day. Allowing the computer to have input to where your rear wheels point is fine for a luxo barge cruising at 110km/hr with gentle sweepers. Power sliding on a race track, the computer maybe up to the task, but the driver (esp a newbie like me) doesn't want the computer fiddling with where my rear end points (I have enough trouble already). If you drive your skyline hard (like it was meant to be), then you want minimal input from the computer with respect to (rear wheel) steering. I'll still let the computer manage ABS and air bags. cheers, Mike

thanks guys how hard is it to see how worn the clutch is - obviously it needs to come off the flywheel to inspect the bits. If it was ok (I'm assuming the key thing you're looking for is how much meat is left on the clutch plate), you'd still put a new throw out bearing in? I'm trying to find the right balance of the cost of pulling the gearbox out and which bits should be replaced (given it's an import and I have no idea of the age or the treatement the car's had). The other factor is I'd like to put a Jim Berry clutch in, but my mechanic won't warranty a clutch supplied by someone else (fair enough), and is recommending an Exedy (with 2800lb clamp pressure). I'm sure Jim warranties his clutches but it comes down to labour - if theres a problem with the clutch, my mechanic won't wear the time to pull it apart again. My power is only 235 rwKW (R33 GTST) - so a Jim "full monty" is not required - I'll have a chat with Jim Berry. The next question is whether I get the shifter re-built at the same time - again it feels OK, but once the gearbox is out... cheers Mike

The manual gearbox in my R33 GTST has all the common crunches 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd especially when cold. I've tried new synthetic oil and Nulon which hasn't made any difference and my mechanic has suggested a re-build before something breaks and costs lots more. I figure a 2nd hand box will likely have the same problems I've got now so I'll get it rebuilt. Two questions 1) I've read elsewhere people only replace the synchros that are worn - this sounds crazy due to the expense of pulling the box out and the synchros are only ~$50-100 each - why wouldn't you replace them all? 2)should I swap the clutch at the same time - I've no idea how worn it is, but again, there's a lot of cost in pulling out the gear box. cheers Mike

Update just had a retune 9 Aug 07 no mods from below except 98 RON BP ultimate more timing added with the boost sneaking to 16PSI then dropping back to 13.5 PSI 235 rwKW cheers Mike

have a look at Sydneykids groupbuy for whiteline springs and bilstein shocks. lots of good things said by lots of people cheers, Mike http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

Was it your BOV leaking? I'm trying to locate an intermittent turbo leak which might be the BOV, although I've done the crush job on a second one I bought, and I still get the same occasional whistle. I was going to remove the BOV completely and put a plate on temporarily to see if I still had the noise, but a bottle cap in the return pipe would be easier. Mike

Gary, need the full kit, got no money - paranoid that the shocks with the custom valves will run out and I'll be left having to go to Fulcrum for the Teins. I know you've said you're dependant on other countries making big orders to get more stock. How is the current availability? May have to get the shocks then later get springs, bushes, sway bars etc as I assume the shocks are the only customised/hard to get bits? Mike

off topic. but I'd love to see some picks of a side mounted intercooler - I'm assuming that's the factory set up on R34's (and others?) Mike

off topic but what is an SAFC? I'm assuming not an Apexi power FC? Mike

Jazza, not sure if I can add value to this issue, but I wouldn't expect the diference in resistance between 2.6k ohms standard vs 2.4K ohms measured will be an issue - that difference is within 10% - so I suspect you have another gremlin somewhere. Typical electronics specs for resistors (non automotive) is +/- 10%. Automotive won't be very different. Mike

I would have thought the only real test was an AFR on the dyno? Any specs on a website will be a guide only. depending on mods the factory injectors may be fine if they can support a safe AFR at full boost. Mike

If you're replacing them are the Splitfires the go? mike

looking at the GFB (go fast bits) site the plumb backs have a different spring to the atmo's, so you may have an issue with converting an atmo to a plumb back - not sure why technically, but I've been surfing atm as I have issues with my factory plumb back. cheers Mike

My R33 GTST factory BOV started to not fire over a period of several weeks and I got an increasing amount of flutter as the pressure went back into the turbine. I replaced the BOV with another 2nd hand factory unit, but tested the spring on the old unit and it worked exactly the same as the "new" one, so knew as I was installing it that I was probably wasting my time - and of course the new unit didn't work any better. I then started checking the vacuum lines which is where I started to discover issues. I have a HKS boost controller (EVC iv). The instructions off the web say Port 1 connects to the plenum after the throttle body, Port 2 should connect to the turbo output before the intercooler, port 3 connects to the internal wastegate actuator, and port 4 unconnected and blocked off. On mine the line from port 1 went to the BOV only, with a closed off T that probably should have gone to the plenum. The factory vacuum line from the plenum was also closed off. Port 2 is connected the the inlet pipe after the intercooler but before the throttle body (as opposed to the instructions which say it should connect to the turbo outlet before the intercooler). Port 3 connects to the wastegate actuator as per instructions. The car was tuned last on the dyno and the shop said the HKS boost controller was working properly (not sure how?) and the current boost is supposedly 1 bar (apexi FC and HKS 2530 turbo) I disconnected the line from port 1 of the boost controller, closed it off, and connected the vacuum line from the plenum to the BOV - hey presto the BOV works again. This raised several questions: 1. why would the BOV firing slowly degrade - I've changed nothing since last tune? 2. without port 1 of the boost controller being connected to a decent vacuum signal from the plenum how would it do its job and control boost ? 3. would I have a potentially damaging scenario with the wrong connections (eg too much boost etc)? 4. If I connect port 1 of the boost controller to the plenum as per instructions with a T to the BOV, will that affect the vacuum signal to the boost controller ie should I have a separate vacuum line from the plenum for the BOV? 5. the instructions say port 2 should be connected before the intercooler - currently mine is connected after the intercooler - what difference would this make? 5. if I connect everything to spec will it need another dyno? I'm planning to put all lines back to where they were following the last tune and take it back to the tuning shop and ask some questions as to why it's set up as it is, but would greatly appreciate your thoughts/opinions. cheers, Mike

Reading it again it sounds like the UIP is the area between the turbo and the throttle body? Mike

Can anyone explain what UIP is - something to do with inlet plenum? cheers Mike

Indy cars are turbo - F1 cars aren't. the indy cars have a set amount of extra boost per race (can't remember how much but about 20 seconds or so) that they can use for overtaking. cheers Mike

thanks Uraah

I have an R33 GTST with the factory plumb back BOV and a Pod filter. Over the last 2 days I've noticed the BOV doesn't fire at all under gentle driving and only fires a little bit under harder accelleration. Where the BOV usually triggered, instead I hear a fluttering sound I assume is caused by the excess pressure not released by the BOV going somewhere like back through the turbine. I have not modified anything. None of the vacuum leads are disconnected or obviously cracked or perished. Is the factory BOV a serviceable item? Is the factory BOV able to cope with 1 Bar of boost (I've been running 1 bar with a HKS 25/30 turbo since I bought the car 6 months ago) ? Is it more likely to be the BOV or something else? Is it the ECU that triggers the BOV? will it damage anything if I drive it hard? - I assume lots of back pressure on the turbine can't be good. cheers Mike

R33 GTST aftermarket turbo pod FMIC boost controller 18" rims 3" turbo back exhaust insurance - full comp from Famous $760 - although I did have to install an alarm there are some advantages to being over 40

Thanks guys - all very helpful cheers Mike

Does anyone got any ideas how to locate an intermittent air leak? I have a pod, FMIC and stock inlet manifold on a R33 GTST. Occasionally when I put the boot in there'll be a different sound as if I'm sucking air in somewhere. The issue started after a full day at the track. It doesn't occur all the time, and after it does it once it disappears again, as if the leak has temporarily sealed itself (ie pipe gets hotter and expands). I've tightened all the clamps I can get to, and can't identify any split hoses etc. All hoses are the blue silicon ones. There are still numerous clamps I can't reach. I hate to think what a tuning shop would charge me to locate such a fault. Does anyone have any ideas on locating these types of leaks? cheers, Mike

Ian, what time are you likely to leave the Waterworks road BP? I have to go to the hillclimb briefing on Friday night at 7pm - going to try the Mt Cotton hillclimb on Sunday. Might all get to hard to come on the cruise, as I want to change my oil sometime between Friday night and Sunday morning (track day last Friday). cheers Mike