feyd182

Will an RB20DET ignitor work on an RB26DET?

Exactly, my car is a little lean and I just wanted to richen it up a little. Can't afford re tune or new ecu ATM so I need a temporary fix to keep my internals safe.

Just wondering how much pressure my stock fuel system can handle. I have a Walbro 255lph pump, new filters, and a Sard fuel regulator, and stock injectors on my RB20DET. I know stock is between 45-55psi, but I want to know how high I can boost the pressure.

Will a RB20DET head work on my RB20DE+t conversion? I am currently running the 'DE' head. I know there is a difference in duration between the two. The reason I ask is, I am considering a cometic head gasket @ 1.3mm to help reduce my 10:1 compression, I'll have the head off anyways so would it be beneficial to swap to the 'DET' head instead?

I've searched and can't find out what the stock fuel pressure is on a RB20DET, anyone know?

Would engine temp. have any negative effects on the ecu? My problem is that I can start my car in the morning, all is fine until I shut off the car. When I go to restart the car starts fine, but only runs on five cylinders. After about 5-10 minutes of normal (meaning low-boost) driving the #6 cylinder kicks back in and all is fine until I shut off again, then the problem happens again, and again all day long. Does the r32 ecu have some sort of limp-in mode that would cause one cylinder to temporarily shut down due to heat? I'm getting spark and fuel, compression is solid, but for some reason when I shut the car off for 5-10 mins or so the problem re-occurs. I should also mention that this is an rb20de converted to turbo. I have installed a new fuel filter, Walbro 255 lph pump, 2.5" cat-back, and a 92' civic cold air intake, there is also an AFC NEO thrown into the mix as well. I have replaced coils, ignitor, plugs, wires, CAS, and injectors. The A/F ratio on my guage reads about 14.7 @ idle and as low as 10.5 under boost. The problem also occurs whether my NEO is activated or disabled. The TPS is set @ 4.9. Fuel pressure @ the rail is 40-45psi. I have also made a feable attempt at playing with the CAS to see if that helped, but no change. I am currently running a stock RB20DET ECU. I have been to THREE different mechanics and they couldn't figure it out either. I still have the DET long block in my garage, would I be better off to lose the low end torque and go with the DET block instead of a converted DE block? Anyone with ANY ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Try re-gapping your plugs to 0.8mm and try again, I had a similar problem and re-gapping solved it. t...lt/thumbsup.gif[/url]

Does anyone know if I can bolt rb20det 5 bolt calipers on to a rb20de 4 bolt wheel or do I need to convert the whole hub etc.?

Found the problem after swapping every component out and having no luck, the injector was stuck and flooding the shit out of the cylinder coupled with the fact that the #6 lead on the injector harness was hatched as well. I swapped out the injector and harness for #4,5,6 injectors and no more problem. I also turned off the correct on my afc-neo and it cleared up even more. As for the knock sensor and crank sensor, all I did was add an extra ground to the crank sensor and that problem disappeared as well.

I'm having a similar problem, I checked the ecu codes and got #11, and #21, crank sensor, and ign. circuit. My engine is a RB20DE conversion to DET and my problem started very similar to yours. Check to see if you have any fouled plugs, my #6 cylinder is not firing at all although the coils and plugs, etc. are fine.

I dumped the codes from my ecu and got 21-ignition circuit, and 11-crankshaft postion sensor. My #6 cylinder does not seem to be firing at all, the voltage coming from the ignitor on the #6 lead is only 0.73v @ idle. I've tried different coils, plugs, ignitors, and crank sensors, even the coil harness as well and the problem persists. My question I guess would be is, would my ecu be f**ked? Would adding something like an E-manage help correct the problem, or should I try to get another ecu. As a side note, I recently converted my RB20DE to an RB20DE+t if that would have any effect on the problem. I did by the way upgrade the injectors to stock turbo ones, and the stock ecu from DE to DET. My fuel press. at the rail is approx. 38psi @idle and approx. 45psi under load. My turbo seems to be able to hit 12+ psi with no problems, although anything over 7psi and the engine starts to burp and fart.

Would swapping help or hinder the performance of my engine?

Would there be any gains to be made by swapping cams, or will it not be worth while.

I was wondering if i swapped the cams from my RB20DET to my RB20DE+t conversion, would that help to lower compression or are the two sets the same from both engines?

I've noticed that with the DE ECU the motor seems to lean out way too much even with my NEO cranked up to get any useful power. I'll just drive like an old man till I get my hands on a DET ECU.