Grunter

Hey Craig you are mad to sell it, ever since you bought it of me I have been sad every day since.What you not happy with it or something?If I didn't just find out my girlfriend was pregnant over christmas I would with out a dout push people out of the way to buy it back from you.I did try to find a car to replace it just after I sold it to you but it's hard to find a clean 1`

Man well done good job nothing but top notch your going to have some fun with it.Im looking at doing up a track s14 or s15 so keen to have some feed back on this in the future. Cheers

Mate just get the Noltec adj camber arms from the sydneykid group buy that should fix your problem they have some good adj range.Im still confussed as to what you mean as to jack the strut mount plate if you just get adj top camber arms you should be fine they just bolt straight in that easy then a another wheel alignment.No cutting needed!

Yes just as good check out in the group buy section

Parts list: Gearbox Gearbox cross member (As may be different to auto) Tailshaft / Front yoke (As may be different to auto) Speedo cable (As may be different to auto) New clutch Flywheel n bolts Clutch Slave cylinder Clutch Master cylinder Clutch fork Clutch hose (slave cylinder) and pipe from clutch to master cylinder Pedals both clutch and brake ( auto pedal is to big to fit with clutch) Manual ECU Leather gear stick boot and plastic surround There may be something that Ive have missed.It can be a farily costly process money wise paying some one to do all the work unless you can do it all yourself,then you have the hassle of getting all the parts unless you know of someone wrecking a car with a maual.Would be interesting to know if the R33 parts are fully interchangable Keen to know has anyone out there done this before on a R34?

Mate with that set up and add adjustable sway bars you would be very happy

Mate its hard to know what your on about need more info on what you want. Or are you asking about the camber arm mod that other people talk about where they want to change the top front camber arm to a later model arm from a R33 set up? If so the top plate in the strut tower just unbolts and then you can weld it up to suit your new arm set up.Or better again buy the noltec arms that sydneykid is selling they seem to be the best on the market 20min job then a wheel alignment

Yes 33 stockies fit and 200sx also

I've doing some more research and a mate of mine said his mate had a evo 7 with suspension mods / exhaust / chipped ecu with the std turbo still in place and did a 1.03 around wakefield park f@#k thats pretty good for a near std car.

I to had problems with my whiteline sway bar hitting but I ended up fixing it when the car was slightly lowered but still not much gap there.Just like ellie said so much for the bolt on parts which is a factor that make imports so popular.I to found every part that i fitted to my old car had to be modifyed to fit properly.Getting back to swaybars I don't think I would buy whiteline products again there really very ordinary, next time I might try K-mac give them a go.

The car I was going to buy fell through at the last min it was a S14 (But I might start looking at a S15 or Evo 6.5) From memory I think they were $3800 mark around there somewhere

You get what you pay for,In my old car I got a well so called good brand jap coilover, and the car handled like shit was slower and dangerous to drive.I would rather have a car that handles rather than a 1000hp car that is not much quicker than a std 1 around a track.Something that handles the same speed around a corner as the straight = fun My next car Im going to put about $7000 or more all up just for suspension mods .The price for a set of DMS coilovers are pretty reasonable I think Thanks for the feed back keep it coming.

Has anyone had any experience with these or know anyone who has? Thinking of buying these down the track, so after peoples thoughts on these.Any help would be great thanks in advance. Cheers

Why don't you just buy a R34 N1 crate engine I have seen them for $9600 mark (Unless the aussie dollar is up the shit and the price is now higher) Complete brand new long engine in N1 spec,good rebuild cost about that with 2nd gear that is machined

I had a just jap oil cooler fitted to my old car and I to had oil leaks. I did ask just jap on there thoughts and a way to slove this and guess what they said they have sold heaps and never had a problem at all, Bullshit just like the intercooler they tried to sell me the pipe was 3inchs out of alignment.I did think of maching the fittings and then fitting copper washers but in the end I wouldn't be happy with how much meat was left on the fittings as there isn't much to start with.The solution we come up with was to go to perteck they had some fittings that fit straight in and have a seal moulded in to the fitting and I think are good for 7bar and they fitted like a dream and didn't leak at all and.They cost about $30 mark for the 4 of them.With the fittings where the temp and thermostat went we just used the plugs supplied with teflon tape and all of this worked a treat not a leak any where.I would recommend when you are at perteck buy some plastic sprial wrap it protecks the hose's from rubbing on anything.Even though I did have problems to start with I would buy another one with the above mods and custom length hoses. Sorry I don't have the part numbers anymore as all my paper work went to the new owner of my old car. Cheers

It has the R32 wastegate actuator fitted so it has 10psi boost.Hope all is going well,did you get that PM I sent you Edit: Platinum plugs fitted Cheers

Thanks for the replies keep them coming. Cheers

Cool, any idea how many litres of fuel to 100km?

As per title what do you think, are they any good do they have any common faults / problems from std ? How heavy are they on fuel ? Looking to go to 4dr car, so this was an option need something that is a good base to start with as I dont have a garage or time to build up a track ready car. Any help would be great thanks in advance Cheers

I would put a Group A sump in it you can get them I think from advan there about the best you can get bar going dry sump set up.My mate had tomei sump extension and baffle kit and still had oil problems (now on engine 3) oil preasure was fine in straight line but dropped when hard cornering so to me that indicates sump problem.Also recommend rocker cover baffle kit and oil catch can if dont already.N1 oil pump and drain on the back of the head is heading in the right direction.Some people say in the R32 the crank shaft itself is no good and was revised in the R33

2nd that.

Just use the std tops.

Don't under rate the 1JZ or even the 2JZ they are very strong motors right from the factory. They don't have problems with oil control or coil packs and take a huge amount of thrashing In America they have had 2JZ run 9 sec quarter miles with stock internals and thats with reliability.I have driven a std 1JZ supra and R33 and the toyota was a lot quicker they make around 370Nm at about 3000rpm now thats not bad.I have also driven a 600hp GTR which was awesome but it took an awefully large amount of money to do it reliable.

Sway bars are the way to go for sure the best suspension mod I done on my old car just make sure you get adjustable set.I had coil overs fitted which wear 8kg front 6kg rear and they wear way to hard and dangerous to drive they didn't have enough travel and because they were to hard didn't soak up the bumps and skipped over the top thus reduced braking.On a section of road that I allways tested on were actually slower. I couldnt wait to get them out they were crap,on a race track only they may of been ok, may being the key word.What I ended up doing was getting SK bilsteins group buy kit and they were fantastic car handled like a dream firm but not over the top and soaked up all the bumps and they are height adj buy the circlip on the shock body.Its just a old meyth that you need a stiff set of coil overs for a car to handle thats just not true.

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