Grunter

Anyone?

I have Bilsteins in my car with the std springs it is both good on the road and on the track Poeple have driven my car and commented on how good it feels the shocks are alot better than std nissan stuff but not over the top.Mate you would have no problem at all if you fitted std springs with bilsteins shocks I think even later if you wanted to upgrade to whiteline springs you would still have a comfy ride sporty but still smooth ride.I had jap coil overs in my car and couldn't wait to get them out to hard and the car was dangerous to drive.Since I fitted the bilsteins shocks I haven' looked back.I haven't lowered my car much from std height only about 20mm so I can't give you any feed back on lowering any more than that. Out of every mod I have done to my car, suspension is by far the most important and most under looked by a lot of people and it doesn't has to be stiff to perform well like a lot of people may think!

Thank you but would prefer to deal with private sellers to help them out. Cheers Grunter

I'm chasing a std R33 turbo with elbow in good to very good condition no shaft play or oil leaks.Please PM or SMS 0428 234 732 Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

Cool so they fit,1 more quick question from what I understand the only difference between 33 n 34 turbos are the exhaust turbines are a touch bigger to make more power there 4 can I use a RB20 wastegate actuater and will it fit onto the 34 turbo?

Just a quick question can you do the same upgrade with a R34 turbo onto RB20 Like do the oil / water lines fit and does the dump pipe bolt straight up? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

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The diffence between the two are GTR measure 296 x 32 and GTS measure 280 x 30 I upgraded to GTR front brakes on my GTS and it is a worth while upgrade out on the race track I had no brake fade at all and they felt very strong and consistent.I still used the GTS rims (16 x 6.5) GTR are (16 x 8) and the only drama that I had was the the rim was very close the the Nissan logo on the caliper about 2mm gap so what I did was file the logo off and repainted them in high temp paint.With after market wheels this won't be a problem apart from that it is 100% bolt on fit.The rear brakes on the GTS are the same as early model GTR's same part number on the rotors and pads.

Fair enough I didn't read that he lives in Japan FFS!

Mate I would suspect the injector it self maybe? You have eliminated everything else so far,quite possible that it's not spraying correctly.Also go to a mechanic and get them to check that there is power down to the injector it self they pull the plug off and stick in a little light which 1 shows there is power and 2 that it pulses.Some times when there is dirt around the spark plug holes they can short and track the spark.Another thing to to try is spray electrical cleaner on all the loom conectors.Maybe this might help a few more things to try good luck.

Mate stick with Dr Drift he has tuned hundreds of these and has years of experience I drove mine down to melb he really is that good.He does do mail order chips as well

Hi mate I have headed down the same path as you when you do decide to go down the path with a computer upgrade to handle all these mods. I would higly recommend that you go n see Dr Drift for a reflash chip for the std computer as this is what I have done and the results have been unreal totally different car to drive shit loads more mid range and can drive the car on the throttle more around the race track.This has been the best mod I have done on the car so far,and a lot cheaper than a pfc. Good luck with it

I have had a bat mbl stainless split dump/front pipe in 1 and catco high flow in 3 inch with a std GTR cat back on a R32 gts and it made very good power in the mid range and top end while still being legal. I revised this to a hks split dump with a hks front pipe with the catco cat converter with trust pe11 cat back and although these are good well made jap parts they didn't perform as good as my old set up If I had my time again I would of stuck with the old set up BUT fitted a flexible joint to the bat mbl (boss imports) front split dump and front pipe in 1 to make it fit better but apart from that they do make good power. I have had the bat mbl pipe next to a just jap pipe I would advise you to steer clear from the cheaper just jap stuff as they are not as good the flange wasn't even square.At the end of the day you get what you pay for

Hi mate the std spring rates for a R32 Gts are 3kg front and 2kg rear I beleive the SK groub buy are 3.5kg front and rear can be wrong anyone confirm this? Your traction problems can be your tyres have gone off or maybe your wheel alignment settings to much rear neg camber With the car sitting higher on the passenger side even after the new suspension set up check to see if the guards are the same measurement where on mine we found that the front drivers guard was 5mm different than the other side.Good luck

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Sydneykid is right better of getting adjustable fresh new bush kits that way everything is firm and more responsive steering and room for future improvements.Although I did get a small amount of adjustment from shims in the end I wouldn't reccomend it Garry is right . Im now thinking of upgrading my set up as I get more into track days I will need more adjustment to further enhance my wheel alignments.It does make a huge difference to the feel of the car with new bush's

The main difference between the two is the pistons / camsharfts / valve springs / injectors / Ecu exhaust mainfold / fuel pumps / intercoler / turbo etc the list goes on.The engine block is the same if you rebuild the motor with new turbo pistons and try and gather all the other parts 2nd hand as people up grade you should be able to get out of it pretty cheap.Some have bolted turbos straight onto non-turbo motors with an aftermarket ecu but it is not recommended.Its not just the swapping the head its the whole package it can cost a lot of money if you have to pay someone to do the work for you.

I would get the std computer chipped, I got mine done by Dr Drift and haven't looked back cheapper option and a better way to go

I havent done this myself so not 100% sure but have read on the forum here that if you buy genuine Nissan you have to buy the whole bottom control arm.But from memory there is one trader here that you can buy the ball joints seperate for about $45 each plus fitting.I think from memory they have a circlip (Been a while since I've had a close look),remove this then u can press them out good luck sorry I can't remember who the trader was. Cheers

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Doesn't anyone want good suspension? Price drop $1300

Price drop $ 1350 anyone, or throw me a serious offer