sfitzy

change your oil yourself... its cheaper... Mobil ! cost around $60 for 5lt. If you are going to change your oil remember to replace to copper washer as you put the sump plug back in. It leaks a little if not changed, I know I forget to do it ever time!!!

No news to report.... I must surely be related to the fuel pressure. I'd going to have to do a indepth analysis of the car one day. I know that there are some electrically minded people on skylinesdownunder who have don heaps of testing into this. Haven't read all the posts but it seems like a universal problem for nissans.

These things still for sale?

where abouts in Melb?

Do you have piping for it as well?

I'm after a stock BOV and a intercooler.... Also rear tail lights as well.... PM prices please I'm in Essendon area where r u? Also after center dash bin lid cover

pm here too thanks

Two questions, what parts are included in the whiteline kit and where are you?

Hey guys, I'm looking at up grading my cars ECU and I have a question about you guys with aftermarket ECU's or piggy back computers. How do you find your car? is it smoother nicer to drive? I would like to know what people think of their car with a e-manage or Power FC in it? Do stand alone computers such as the Power FC run under closed loop conditions and do they still run thing which aren't performance related, like air con e.t.c...

Is any of this stuff sold?

Any news VuDuDoc? is the car still stalling? cause I haven't stalled in ages! But I still think that the pump is on the way out... only going to get a new one once the old one packs it in!

From what I have read they have just grounded the pump... But I wouldn't do that, you pump will be forced to run at 100% capacity all the time! I think putting a variable resistor in this grounding wire would allow you to set the minimum current to the pump at all times. The ECU will still be able to increase the flow during hard driving, but when off the gas the new set-up would maintain a pump pressure high enough to hopefully stop the car from stalling! I think this could be a better option!

Anyone interested in this BOV? Still for sale

Hello? Anyone know what that this is in the picture? or anywhere a smoke test can be done in melb?

The boot area refers to the area in a skyline where the battery lives... You access the fuel pump/tank from a cover next to the battery which is pretty much under the rear parcel shelf in a Skyline. You need to take off a foam/chip board cover to get at it.

This was the thread I was talking about... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=pump+wire Instead of hardwiring your pump a variable resistor in an easy to reach position in the grounding line would allow you to vary the minimum current to the pump! Can anyone with an electrical backgroup back this up?

There is a thread around that outlines the technique invovled to hardwire it.

Sounds like you got one two... Assuming that everything in the fresh motor is fine, no air leaks and such. Then it must be something related to what was not changed. Are you using the stock ECU for the RB20DET? Are the fuel pumps the same capacity for a 240SX and a RB20DET? We don't have 240SX'x overhere... They run the same engine as in the Bluebird don't they? Anyway because if the pumps aren't the same and when you run at idle the ECU would expect a certain amount of fuel which it is more than likely not getting and would adjust have time to adjust. However if you are driving the car and come off the gas (which used to make mine stall). The ECU would start to response by sending its 'normal' voltage signal to the pump, however the ECU may not have enough time to increase to signal to the pump. The engine then is starved fuel and stalls. Why some skylines stall is because that the pump is getting older... many of our cars are 8-12 yrs old, they just aren't efficient as they once were. Same with alternators, batterys etc. I am gradually replacing all these items and I reckon the car will run just fine. Also, I thought of grounding the pump to make it run at full capacity all the time, but what I think is a better option is to put a variable resistor in this ground line to dictate the minimum current to the pump. Thereby allowing you to adjust the minimum flow of the pump and allowing the ECU to control it during normal driving. I think this sounds logical, anyone else out there with an idea? Sorry about the long post....

Thanks DREMEN!! Now does anyone now of a workshop in Melbourne that does smoke tests? And does anyone know what function the item in the attached picture has?

What didn't you change with the fresh motor?

Another question peoples.... What is the function of the part highlighted in this attached picture! I think thats where the leak sounds like its coming from!

I have an air leak somewhere and I can't find out where the leak is coming from. When my car comes on boost there is a slight high pitch whistle that starts and gets louder as the boost increases. I have replaced my vacuum hoses and refitted the BOV, but it still happening! Anyone with any ideas? Or know anything about getting the car leak tested would be a great help! Thanks in advance!

At least if you change them, then you can eliminate it from the list of possible causes..... So far I have.... Changed the plugs Changed the battery Adjusted the idle Changed the fuel filter And it hasn't stalled yet... (in the last week or so) It's come close a couple of times but hasn't stalled.

Heres a picture of the R35 Skyline.... THe next GTR would look something like this...

How much vibration is there? If its only a little vibration and you have a big exhaust, some times the exhaust can shake the car up a bit. Depends if you have a flexible exhaust connection between the dump and the cat. I know one mine there isn't a flexible connection and the car gently shakes at idle. If its a hard vibration it could be anything? A fouled plug, a misfiring cylinder anything some thing out of balance....