OVL-747

t3 are water cooled my man i have over 200 rwkw , mind u its a 3ltr. if u keep up with oil changes etc , as i do every 4000k , i dont mind paying for a few more bottles of oil per year , then u wont have too many dramas with it.

not only do u get the crank balanced , get it ground undersized , as u will get oversize bearings and u also drill out the little lead plugs and put a new grub screw in there. good idea to get the rods resized aswell are u sure i have seen it done a few times , its just a matter of getting the fuel and ir right. standard nissan pistons shit all over acl etc pistons , if u build up a hipo 3ltr save urself dramas and get forgies straight away. dont waste ur money on any cast peice of junk , cept a standard nissan item series i na block does not have the oil feed and drain back holes etc. series 2 na block does , it just has brass bungs in em , unscrew em get the required fitting and banjo bolt from holden and ur away. not really , u will notice all the fast vl turbos run subzero or nizpro plenums all with front facing t/b's , it all comes down to whats inside the plenum , tuned length runners:) etc joel if ur ever in need to talk to that fella , his username is twinvl , on the calais turbo forums , also another chap whos name is stimps , i believe has done a 25 head on 30 bottom , and asl rb30det off there aswell is doing it. theres a few over here that have toyed with it , cant beat the sohc though lol motec is too much $$$ for any of us here in reality , i have just got an autronic smc , for my vl , it is capable of all of the above mentioned stuff (near enough) its completely user definable , which make tuning at any speed , rpm , boost whatever oh so easy and acurate. best rings to use are standard nissan , nissan is ****in excellent gear , no matter what engine , they have the best research and development etc. high quality , as for segmented oil ring , there are some good and some bad though it all comes down to ur installation of it , as to how it works and lasts. cryo can be done to pistons etc but dont bother WASTING your money

has happened with my rb30 as well hehehe what it sounds like is mainly ur afm im not too sure about the right setting for a rb25 , but with a rb30 , the air flow meter , needs to read a set ohmage of 382ohms , this measurement is taken from the 2 outer most pins on the afm , where the loom plug connects to it. if its out it dummys info to the computer which is not correct and makes it run rich/lean etc , causes flatspots and hesitation etc etc etc. also things like malpassi rising rate regulators can do it too , as boost hits , the fuel pressure rate rises at whatever rate the reg is (1.5:1) etc and that sudden fuel dump doesnt immediately get burnt , bit of a dull spot.

oh they arent ceramic , all steel in here

yes just a plain thrust bearing (not a bb) water and oil cooled. and yes bigger than rb25 turbo. might be late 80s technology but still make the power to show most of u boys up. dont knock em. mase check especially around the wastegate hole (these turbos incorporate an internal gate) check around the hole for cracks in the housing itself , i can almost garauntee there will be tiny ones , dont worry about it. unless it is quite apparent. shaft play isnt too big a drama , there will be some play , every turbo needs a wee bit of play , if its over the top then it may be worn internally. t3s seem to be quite a good turbo , if it hasnt been pushed beyond its working limits of about 12 psi ,and has had regular oil changes, then internally it should be good, buy it , hiflo it and have fun , will be a bit laggy on a rb20 but itll be good.

would you boys have a problem if came along , would be a chance to hear some real information

easiest way is to look on the exhasut side of the block. down the bottom , pretty much the middle of the block u will see a 1inch bung , thats the return line for turbo oil drain. about 8inches above that bung , u will see another bung bout half inch , this is for the oil feed line. and thirdly about the same height as the oil feed hole , but about 12inches to the right , almost at the rear end of the block u will see 2 holes both with bungs in em. one of the is the water feed line for the turbo , the other is the coolant drainage hole , which is in all block though. Arias pistons now makes a piston to suit the RB30 block to RB25 Head conversion, this is good news in regards to compression ratio problems with this swap i think wiseco do aswell

theres no difference between rods and rod bolts. when we rebuild these bottoms its common to put say arp bolts in but stock nissan is extremely good. but most ppl just get em resized then the whole shootin match balanced - rb30s are tough as guts

the only difference between rb30 and rb30t bottom ends are the pistons and oil pump crank , rods etc are the same

im not exactly sure but i think ppl like rajabs and jpc still run the vlt pump on their race cars - all 9 sec vlts. they have plenty of power. i know many vlts with 300-500 rwhp and never have any probs with oil starvation. they are a very reliable pump.

the standard vl turbo oil pump is very good , i have been toying with vls for a while now and havent heard of many oil related probs ever. both the rb30 and rb30t pumps have the same oil pressure but the rb30t pump being larger allows more volume of oil.

joel - lag wise it is very good , well on my car at least. putting it on a smaller capacity engine then yeah id say itd increase lag a bit. what size ex housings are on the 25det? as you said save his cash and put it towards engine management , thatll get him more hp too , so either way he is a winner

i back bris tuning , they are very good with autronic and price wise seems as good as others. good blokes to sit and chat with too. i heard that that small shop over wynnum way , fast and furious or whatever it is can tune safc's etc , along with numerous other installs of computers too. dont think they have there dyno in yet

im not too sure about 300rwkw with a stndrd t3. i have around 215rwkw , still using the t3 though it has been hifloe'd , not using t4 internals but. i think with tuning capabilities of a skyline compared to the vl , the t3 would go nicely on it. matched with correct exhaust and cooler blah blah blah. with a hiflo t3 ur garaunteed to make more power. they are oil and water cooler , steel wheels but not bb.

differences between rb30 and rb30t are as said above , plus the rb30t releif spring is about 4 mm longer. the gtr pump is i think same size as rb30t pump , but has different shaped gears and the releif valve is slightly larger diameter. best to check though. a mate is using a gtr pump on his vlt

just get urself one from any auto specialist , but also retain the standard radiator cooling , just go from auto thru radiator then thru ext cooler and back to auto. you are dead right , heat is number 1 cause of auto damage