green 33

Hey has there been a resolve to this issue???? I myself have gone thru a walbro, 2x GTR pumps (secondhand), 1x 040 (new) and then put a new 044 in and it seems to be doing the same the GTR pumps when they went, just became noisey and wouldn't create pressure above 60ps The 040 when it went, became noisey then at load would completely die but at idle would still create pressure Now the 044 has become noisey and will not create pressure above 90ps I have done the wiring mod and then even tried with new relay and wiring problem still occured, now i have just had a friend with an external setup have the same problem, which was going to be my next thing to try (surge tank setup) i have pumped all fuel out of tank but i have not removed tank and had flushed and cleaned just hoping someone here has actually done something that has completely resolved the issue, after all there seems to be many on the site that have this issue??

Walbro x2

Hey i have had same problem replaced with proper efi hose and same thing happened was given some standard fuel hose from a skyline from a friend and it seems to have fixed the problem (although it has only been 3 or 4 weeks)

mine is mounted in tank, i thought this was for same, but just noticed in first post by greece s13 he said "two pumps" so different circumstances, please disregard my previous post.

The valves will usually leak off anyway over a few hour period, and the way i figured it was with the valve there it actually restricts the flow from the pump so i completely drilled mine out, just when starting the car you have to let the pump prime to fill back up the lines

Yeah sounds like the solenoid is the problem.

You can check the solenoid by simply putting power and earth to it, it should start clicking away like mad, i have seen this problem before and ended up being the processor, gizzmo were extremely helpfull and replaced the unit So just double check your wiring (espeacially at the back of the processor) Check that when there is power to the solenoid it does in fact cycle (click like mad) And if still when you got to set higher boost you do not hear the solenioid cycle, the problem will be with the processor, return to place of purchase or contact gizzmo direct.

I also have the blitz BOV just made a fitting for a hose to bolt up to where the trumpet was and then plumbed it back into original return line works a treat

I am far from an expert when it comes to O2 sensors so could be wrong about the following statement. I have heard that one of the wires to the o2 sensor reads the ambient temp and this wire cannot be soldered shortened or the like, but would have thought it would only refer to the wires between plug - sensor. I have also heard that the ECU can be effected from shorts, best check there would be to borrow a mates ECU swap them over and see if that is infact your issue, Would be a bonus if you could keep us updated, so many times you read ppl's problems - suggestions, but rarely you read how it was fixed.

Can use an SAFC that way you can eliminate fuel cut and be able to adjust your A/F ratios

i had a S2 turbo ran 13psi on weekends or when on spirted drives oh and 1 drift comp and turbo lasted about 3 or 4 months, then one day just on low boost low revs turbo decided it had enough, now funnily enough most problems with these turbo's is the rear ceramic wheel flying apart but in my case i blew a chunk out of the front wheel the size of a 10cent piece, so maybe the good tune can protect the rear wheel but in the end at that boost the turbo is most likely going to go, but good luck hopefully you will get a bit more life out of her

Best of luck with it and will be quite keen on hearing how it all goes, so make sure you keep us informed. i have also had bad luck with manifolds as after my original cracked i bought a SS through a reputible supplier, and had about a 20kw loss in power and only after a week i had blown a hole through it and when pulled it back off there were countless cracks through it, luckily they reimbersed me with a standard manifold and cost of replacing it.

The MS-IBC has an additional multi scramble setiing very similar to that of the AVCR except you can repress the sramble button within the initial sramble setting and increase the sramble time where as with the avcr you must wait for the initial sramble feature to expire before you can repress. IMO you cannot look past the gizzmo IBC for bang for buck it is extremely easy to connect and quite simple to set up, with 4 settings, holds boost well and has an excellent gain setting. these are usually on the shelf for around $400 at autobarn and have even seen them as cheap as $270 I have found in the past that using bleed taps will be subject to boost spikes and factuating pressures

Just been through this myself, should be 38 - 40psi with vacuum on at idle, then jump up around another 15psi when vacuum removed, Best way to go would be see if you can borrow another standard fpr chuck her on and see if it fixes your prob.

I have found when the car is cold it will be around -20 but at op temp it should be around -50?????

Thought i had better update how i went with this problem incase anyone else runs into this drama, Fitted a malpassi reg and seemed to fix the problem, but then it would intermittantly run like crap, so i put a fuel pressure gauge on and found it would vary pressure from drive to drive, I had mounted the malpassi on the side of the intake manifold and it was getting too hot, and when it would get hot the fuel pressure would fluctuate +/- 15%, So i replaced it with a sard unit mounted it near the fuse box, new tune on the safc and hey presto car runs like a dream.

Take it back to the place where you had the AVCR fitted and get them to re-check their work, if it was running with no dramas before hand it has to be something to do with how they fitted it mainly the connections to your standard ecu, i have not had a huge amount to do with the avcr but i know it connects to the injector signal from the ecu (could be causing dramas) i also know that bad or bridged earths between ecu's and piggybacks can cause various issues.

Sounds like turbo oil seal usually after a decent drive or bootfull you will get a plume of white smoke when revs drop back down, you can check by when the car is at idle give a full throttle stab on the accelerator and after a second or 2 should get a puff of smoke out the exhaust. good luck, hope it's not, on the positive though if it is a standard turbo the rebuild cost isnt too bad

When mine started to go they would start breaking down between the 3000-4000rpm range and if i kept into it would again break down at the 5500 - 6500rpm range guess all dependant on temp, engine load, coil wear etc etc, the cracks can be extremely difficult to see at first thought crack was just a thin spider web. If you are sure nothing is wrong with coils check your sparkplugs, sometimes aged or too largely gaped plugs can have same feel espeacially when running higher boost

Have you checked your ignition coils, they will give you a fairly bad miss (feel like rev limiter) and a more prone to breakdown at higher temperatures, if you pull them out and have an inspect and if they have very fine cracks (normally whitish in colour) they are on there way out, running engine without coil pack cover will keep them a bit cooler for longer, also i have known people to have insulated their mounting rail and have aleiviated the problem, how ever only true way of fixing is new coil packs definately reccomend the splitfires

If you are referring to the boost line that runs to the back of the gizzmo, if there were a leak it would read less boost because it would be unable to hold the pressure fully hence by fixing the leak would read higher (that line is purely for the digital boost gauge) The gizzmo will read the highest stable boost reading at that duty cycle, so on a nice cold night you could expect that reading to increase again

I would reccomend the bosch over the walbro, i had the walbro and it shit itself in less than a year, also had a mate that had one and it died too.

It actually builds boost quickly but just runs like crap, i had a fuel pump fail on me and it felt like that, like there is just not enough fuel there, and when adjusting SAFC it is not making any difference

Bought Full HKS Kit came with actuator the lot,

had loud whistle with new turbo so i have double checked and triple checked all gaskets and lines def no leaks, AFM is plugged in but i guess giving it a clean wouldnt hurt. didnt unplug any electrical connectors but will check nothing has come loose. thanks They are selling these turbo's as direct replacements to standard unit, would have been good for a bit of fore warning to know i was goig to need management, larger afm and injectors. my big problem is i would be happy if it was going as hard as before new turbo, but it is just so sluggish now