Cheddle

yeah it was a striaght swap, i am selling the GTiR for a similar price, if you are intersted PM me.

gone - traded for gtir

if the bike is a regoed road-trail and you throw in 11 match box cars you sir, have a deal

im selling to buy a small 4-cyl car like an ae82 rolla or similar and use the rest of the cash to buy a bike PM me the details of ur VL tho... lol

as above 0400870890

Location: TAS: Hobart Postcode: 7010 Odometre: 117,000 kilometres Asking Price: $5,950 Condition: Used Reason for Selling: Downsizing to smaller car Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: 0400870890 Extra Information: Black R33 Sedan 1993 - GTS-25t model, fitted with RB30E Running gear: R31 S3 RB30E R31 S3 gearbox R33 GTS tail shaft R33 GTS25-t 4.3:1 LSD diff other modifications: GTR grill Rear bar pods pod filter extractors 2.5inch zorst sports steering wheel 19inch HR Racing alloys wrapped in Federal 595's Walbro 255lb/h fuel pump included parts not fitted to car: 3inch stainless de-cat pipe Delta-finned front mounted intercooler, with mounts and piping Bitz sideskirts, one is snapped may trade for a small 4-cyl car or LAMS approved bike and cash *note, has gold 19's as pictured, also has stock front seats now

RB30E's have them already tapped and threaded.. with the exception of very early engines 80% of them are ready with oil feed/drain and water feed/return already done on the zorst side... OP: do it. turbo it. i contacted Monsta on Ebay and they will have stainles manifolds back in stock in around a month for $300. the r31skyline club forum is your friend and the rb30 bottom end is amazing... ive seen many examples of un opened engines producing 300 rwkw+ ive seen a stock bottom end auto make 350rwkw before spliting a head gasket RIPS make over 800 KW with a stock rb30 crank and treated stock rods...

i had a very very similar problem in my r32 and it was the steering angle sensor... does the car back end track slightly left and then right when accelerating lightly in a straight line from 50 km/h to 90 km/h ?? if so id say thats your problem... steering andle sensor is telling the hicas ecu your turning...

i belive this really all depends on your expectations... if you modify an rb30e and expect it to perform like an M3 then prepare to be disapointed. if you modify an rb30e and expect it to perform like a commodore preapre to be pleased. ^.^

He didnt mention he wanted it to handle or slow down ^.^ not alot of effort... its as much effort as replacing a turbo on a turbo car...

As in the above pic... PFC hand controller is a gameboy compared to the software and logging offered by.nistune for a fraction of the price.

Ill add that id made 110 rwkw on 4psi with -5 deg timing, no intercooler and a slipping auto box. It made 110rwkw at 2000 rpm and then the auto slipped.

Firstly. f**k all the haters above... Secondly. Easy buy VL turbo aka 270cc hose tail injectors or any other similar type of hosetail injector. Buy turbo manifold. Ebay used to be a good place but stock is low. Try for a 2nd hand stock cast iorn vl turbo manifold. Buy a turbo. An rb25det turbo ia a good start for about 180rwkw contact nistune for a custom remap. Around $100 exc postage Custom oil+water lines are $100-150 on ebay now. Either take the lot to a resonable performance garage and have them fit it and have the piping+dump pipe fabricated. This will cost around $1000 Or do it yourself and save around $700 labour but tou will need to pay for random pipe and joiners and also pay for the exaghust to be made. I turboed an automatic TI r31 for around $1500 total using a KKR480 turbo $600 and mates rates on the dump pipe

yes

6 hit light post 7 die

my thoughts exactly, its a good 10% increase... and at around $100/kw gained its "cheap" for n/a tuning gains. especially considering it gives me overhead for turbo tuning later.

i would point a finger at the wastegate actuator... there is virtually no noticible difference in response between these turbos on an rb20... make sure that the wastegate arm is as tight as possible, i remember when i changed my turbo on my r32 last time the bolts were ever so slightly loose on the actuator bracket and ti caused epic wastegate leakage for what its worth i think that running the RB20 turbo actuator on the RB25 turbo results in more boost... i think, could be the other way around tho lol...

as above, give it a good clean with brake cleaner or such to ensure no residues and then have a crack on the pipes with some heavy grit glass-paper to scuff it up and give the pipes something to hold on to. other wise take them to an exaughst shop and get a bead of weld tacked around it.

a Mk. 2 Jaycar speed-o corrector kit made my R31 gearbox+speed sender work with my R33 dash... might be worth a shot? the r31 speed sender would not drive the speed-o, using the kit to change the signal to a 2v AC signal and then correcting it by around 40% to calibrate it worked fine.

hmmm my lifters are currently a little noisy, particularly on start-up... Does the nistune support automatic wide-band tuning????? :-/

Money aside... nistune

Unless u want/need adjustability stay clear of coilovers. Get a nicely natched shock an spring. I had nismo struts n springs in my r32 and they were amazing comfortable and very little body roll with great bounce elimination my r33 has aftermarket full height shocks and springs and they are much the same but roll a bit more than the 32. Im unsure on the brand unfortunately.

Nistune came back to me and suggested minimal economy gains and around 10 kw gains based on past experience.

My tacho isnt connected yet... So i dont know. I rev it untill the power starts to drop off so around 5,500 rpm i would assume.

cheers for the advice dan. i reckon il laim for a nistune first up, get it tuned. then later on boost it with some stock vlt gear. ive heard that changing the cam requires that the lifter be changed/replaced as well? is this true?