Cheddle

yeah the r31 ecus are easily "chipped" Nistune offer a daughterboard upgrade for the ecu to alow on the fly tuning and connectivity with a laptop. im most likely going down that path as a local tuner has experience both installing and tuning Nistune ive been thinking about the 30de option and its becoming more attractive.. i might buy another engine and build it up, but for now im still hungry for some more poke skitzr31's high-compression rb30de made 150 rwkw running on a stock rb25det ecu with no tuning... iirc wouldnt mind doing that...

Mmm no not a p plater... Ive owned a few 200 rwkw+ cars in my time... Throttle responce is always an issue with a turbo. Always. Im chasing a wide and flat power curve with high torque. Not some high kw figure or amazing narrow power band. Hence why im considering options besides a cam change. Ive driven a car with a 30de and another with 30det in fact my car used to have the 30det in it... The 30de felt great if a little peaky but the owner really has had soo mnay issues with it.... Im reluctant to go down the same path.

Have an rb30e has extractors, 2.5 in zorst, pod. Has any.one here ever used a nistune or similar on a relativly stock rb30? Seeing as its a rather soft tune on 91 octane im woundering if a more agressive tune and 98 octane fuel would net noticible gains? Im thinking 10-15kw could be had from a beter tune without changing the cam and before u post about twin cam conversions and turbos being the more economic choice i would like to alert you to the fact.that im not ignorant or retarded... I want throttle response to be perfect so im not boosting it. Twin cam conversion might be an option however it may be excesive.

Bolt the det head ect to the awd rb25de block. High compression turbo ftw

The na and turbo front half tail shafts are different... Or more specifically the tail shaft yoke to the gear box is different. The speed sensors are interchangable. Fwiw the rb25de and rb20det use the same yoke.

lol... this thread is full of jizz

contact nistune in australia who will be able to "chip" your rb20e ecu to run different fuel and timing maps to suit the rb30e. my rb30 is n.a basic mods: GTS style extractors 6-2-1, 2.5inch cat back zorst, pod filter, advanced ignition timing running premium fuel. car has a 4.46:1 LSD, that helps ^.^ i dragged off a WRX to 100 km/h the other night the car realistically has around 100 rwkw, with a cheap turbo kit it would have close to 170 rwkw

+1 - they are interchangable just watch for push/pull type clutch if ur using an r34 box/car

Dont get one made the stock one worka... The front shaft is the same between rb20det and rb25de. But rb25det uses a larger yoke and the rb20det box wil not use it i have an r33 gtst with an r31 series 3 box (VERY similar to r32 gtst) and i use an r33 gts front half shaft and r33 gtst back half shaft

Could u describle the noise a bit more? Are you around hobart?

Lol such hate... Exempt... you need to spin the tyres faster for darker lines. Or stay in one spot for longer to leave more rubber on the ground. Try 3rd or 4th gear for more rubber on the ground. In stock form an r32 will hate this... Id reccomend a better clutch and then a bigger turbo and supporting mods. Softer compound tyres with lower treadwear ratings might also help have fun and remeber, theres a time and a place. Up the mountain at 3 am is fine but dont go busting huge skids in the shopping mall car park on a thursday arvo...

What u were told may apply to non bosch jetronic fuel injection set ups and carbys however 99% of efi cars changing the fuel pump has no impact on mixtures... The pressure is regulated by a pressure reg on the engine fuel rail and any excess fuel above this pressure is fed back to the fuel tank. Upping the fuel pressure will change mixtures.

Ive got an rb30e in my r33 and it smashes the pants off rb25de`s the torque is good. Not so great on fuel tho Engine mounts will be the same as the difference is in the block height in terms of managment its best to use an rb30e loom and re wire it to suit the r33 Ebay has some cheap turbo kita for rb30e`s if u wanted more power later on if u are serious pm me and ill send u some pics of my conversion and the wiring

im keen, i have brake pads now!! will sort out my surging issues and see if i cant manage a doule-digit lap time!!! i.e less than 100 seconds ^.^

that looks a whole lot like Skitr31's engine bay! 150rwkw running an rb25det tune... noice at the moment cash is tight so i wont be coming to the track day unfortunately. im unsure what way to go yet, boosted, n/a 30e head or n/a 25de head... either way the car needs a tidy up before i start blowing wads of cash on making it go fast!

Im happy with how it performs. With the short gearing its nice and zippy. Feels very flat but as soon as you stomp it the powers there. Took down my mates auto s-vz no worries. Im thinking of keeping it na but tuning it to push the peak torque up the revs a bit just to make it a bit more powerful. First thing ill be doing. Besides a general tiday up and maintenance is a nistune ecu and some dyno time.

update: speedo worked with the speed correcter, massive 40% difference due to gearing! lol simply used 12v+ from r33 gearbox loom, made an earth and then ran the signal wire to the cabin to the adjuster and then straight to the back of the dash. FYI, for those using a Jay car speed correcter MK. 2 with an r33 you need to use the 8.2v JP1 setting and then use the AC JP5 setting... should work a treat!tacho cannot be driven by the stock tacho output from the r31 ecu, i will most likely piggy back it off the CAS or i will make some kind of relay style circuit to convert the signal to run the tacho

Updated: r33 n/a tailshaft fitted, so did the standard r33 gearbox crossmember. The wiring was litterally 4 wires at the ecu side using the whole r31 engine loom with the r33 relays. Ended up chopping off the r31 altenator plugs and using them on the r33 body loom. I have not hooked up the speedo or tacho yet but i have a jaycar speedo corrector mk2 that im hoping will work to correct the change in diff ratio. Ill post up some vids and pics over the easter break

So is it Pay on the day event for the 24th? Normal regs like helmet, secondary bonnet restraint and no leaking crap? Anything else?

id be inclined to thinks its either electrical, a short in the dash perhaps. or... a slipping/loose belt or low power steering fluid but im stabbing in the dark best thing to do is to determine if the hicas is actually the problem.... or if the blinking light is the problem.

as above, have rb30e in my r33. getting speedo sorted. has 4.33 diff gears, may be able to adjust stock dash... trying to avoid correcter kit

the r31 shaft will not work, has a different joint arrangment... going to try an N/A r33 tail shaft other wise it will be custom fabbed using the r31 yoke and r33 shaft

im my experience this is due to the gears wearing out, usually they are made from plastic and as the sunroof rails loose there grease it becomes harder for the motor to open it... the motor still can but the cruddy plastic gearing isnt up to the job and the teeth strip... take it out pull it apart

conversion under way: exhaust, im please to say, lined up perfectly gearbox cross member was not interchangeable tail shaft was not interchangeable r31 radiator does not fit, its too tall. all ancillaries bolted up, inc air con. wiring yet to be done

have purchase radiator. mainly chasing gearbox crossmember now and posssibly a tail shaft