tek_01

easy as, usually just a bolt that has a couple nuts on it to adjust the length of it so it is snug on your master cylinder

do a search i am sure this has been covered before many times, i think you have a couple options either buy the whiteline kit (1 or 2 depending on how much negative camber you have) or adjustable arms i think

just got some 19x9.5 (275)rears and 8.5 fronts (235 i think). ride is more bumpy for sure but thats expected with the lower profile tyres. 18s just looked too small on the 33 i thought they would rub but not one sign of rubbing anywhere so im really happy, just need to lower it maybe 1" as its riding at standard ride height still

nope not yet, hopefully by the weekend so i can do them over the weekend

as mentioned bfore you have to push the pistons back depending on how strong you are, you can even push them back in with your fingers but if that fails go get a g-clamp and use that but if your stuck at home now and got nothing else, use a screwdriver and wedge it in between and lever it back but try do it as even as possible to not wreck the piston seals

also what offset are they>? you said they suit r33 but is it gtr or gtst?? any pics on a car??

interested in a trade + cash your way for r34 gtt rims?

Does anyone have a phone number for Jamex ? i have tried 2 different numbers and i cant seem to get the right company, one is in VIC and is an electronics company and the other is something in menai marketplace also is jamex at 43 yanderra ave bangor?

well ive sent 3 pms to him over a month ago and still no reply, not even a confirmation... thats all i want pm.s should be as good as an email,as he doesn't have to read this specific thread will try an email for the fun of it

yes you need a cat

Anyone heard from him yet?

13.5 here on 200rwkw

nissan want bloody $160-180 for the pads

i glued all 3 surfaces as suggested above

whats permatex?

rofl nankangs... they about $130 a pop for a 17" 225 which is cheap i have them all round on my car and the rears break traction coming onto boost in 1st and JUST hold on in second im running standard turbo too, dyno'd at just over 200rwkw so unless you got some 265s on there i dont think theyll hold

ok this was on the car when i bought it from the dealer so i didnt buy it (btw they are $299 from supercheap which i rekon is a HUGE rip-off) also got a standard BOV which i bought second hand but to be honest i rekon it sounds sort of gay coz your expecting a nice strong sound but instead you get this piss weak little 'pshew' that sounds like a pokemon lol. To be honest if you couldnt hear the stock one at all id leave it on but i just cant stand that sound was looking into getting a stealth fx/hybrid gfb but cant justify the cash for one so id rather keep what ive got

i didnt see a mention of what turbo your running. Your not running 20psi on the standard turbo are you???

its the ssqv look-alike one. I dont think there is a problem with it as boost holds up fine and it runs the same as with the stock one i grabbed apart from the noise...performance is the same but yeah its working in the opposite direction it should be its pretty hard to undo as there is no access to the allen key screws (if you see it you will know what i mean)

dont r34 and r33 power fc's differ ?? if so than it wont fit all rb25s please clarify, part number/serial would help as that usually has the info on it

forgot to mention also have a master cylinder stopper i will need to bleed the abs unit too is that right?? any instructions on how to? i will try the real bed in session when i get a chance but its hard to do coz people looking at you think you've lost it haha

im not going to start a debate on the atmo vs plumb back just want to know why it flutters more if i loosen the spring

also try cleaning the aac valve if you havent already theres a DIY in the tutorials section

to cut along story short Got new rda slotted rotors front with some new generic pads (maxistop pads i think) Got new rda slotter rotors rear with some other generic pads (mcb kevlar) installed them as follows cleaned all shims and applied orange anti squeel glue on them chamfered all pads leading and traling edge on an angle bled all 4 bed them in as descibred somehwre here on the forum (a few stops from 80 to 40 medium brake than some from 100 to 70 with hard pressure than drove for 10minutes to cool them before turning car off) and they still freaking squeal, only when coming to a stop say 30km/h or less WHYYYYYYYYYYYYY getting braided lines within a week or 2 so will take them out and check if the pads are glazed, also will do a full brake fluid flush which should help pedal feel any ideas?? rand up nissan and they want approx $180 for the anti squeal shim kit which i dont want to pay (mine are a bit rusty and thought maybe a new set with the copper grease will fix it if it was a cheap price)

SydneyKid, id like to know if im going to get the parts before you will go on holidays in october, if not i would like a refund as i dont see waiting over 2 months for swaybars reasonable get back to me asap thanks