tek_01

got it all sorted, thanks fellas its shit working in the boot!

i went looking for a spring and couldnt find one the same size at bunnings or autopro cbf looking anymore. From my understanding, when u UNSCREW the bolt... the boost goes down. when u SCREW it in, it goes up and if this is so i cant get less than 0.9bar before the screw falls out has anyone with a 33 and fmic run 10psi with this boost controller or minimum is about 14 which is all i can get?

had to read it twice to get it, its ok not my style but i like to not attract any attention

will try that tomorrow thanks do u happen to know why it wont go lower now that i installed the fm?

Yeh the guy welded a nipple on there, its all set up correctly it boosted to way over 1 bar so i adjusted it down (undid the bolt than allen key) than tightened the nut back up. but its just about on the last thread on the allen key bolt and it wont go lower than 0.9 bar want to run about 11 psi which is roughly .7-.8 bar

any reputable workshops with a dyno i can go to tomorrow that can set up my fuel pressure reg, bleed valve and have a run on a dyno to check afr's? (fuel cut defender installed) anyone gone to Dynamic racing Concepts (DRC) on rookwood rd? are Croydon racing dev open saturdays?

Hey all just put on a FMIC and boost went over 15psi (standard turbo) i was previously set at 10psi and now i wound it down but wont go less that .9 bar or the screw will fall out am i doing something wrong?

OK OK, XXX did it. I spose its not bad to say it because i am sharing information that could be useful, as someone said if they cant see it it wont hurt them (the customer) or something along those lines. thats why i was so eager to get back in the tank and see what they really done. First and last time to go there, wasnt happy with the service from the start.... i made an appointment at 10am and didnt leave until about 2.45.... but i spose workshops can be like that i payed $120 for the install only... the pump was supplied by myself. mods if u think this thread is not within guidelines than feel free to edit. on a good note i got my FMIC installed today, happy with that and the guy who installed it **edited by mods - please don't mention names**

LOL sorry for the bad pics, when i go up close the camera cant focus

Hey all just thought id share my little experience with you.... To cut a long story short, got a workshop (supposedly a good one) to install a 33 gtr pump in my 33 gtst I wasnt happy with the amount of racket it was making so i got a walbro one to put in myself when i opened it up i was amazed at how shit the work was and also unsafe! Picture 1 and 2: Both positive and negative wires insulation were ripped and Picture 3: The rubber seal had also been damaged Picture 4: Cap was bashed off with a screwdriver or something that would damage it (cant u see its plastic so u shouldnt use metal!) and last but not least they did not mount it on any sort of rubber just cable tied it to the cradle THATS WHY IT WAS SO f**kING NOISY! sorry no pic for that. /end of rant If anyone wants to know the name of the workshop, pm me and i will tell you

i got a brand new nismo one for under $170 so i rekon that is pretty good value for a quality product

sometimes it is better to take it to a regular mechanic for normal sort of stuff like this where "performance workshops" will charge an arm and a leg for it performance workshops are better for tuning/powering up car imo where a regular mechanic will probably not be so experienced at this sort of thing

assumption about the ticking is probably right, either exhaust manifold or turbo gasket causes a ticking noise. but dont just assume..make sure of it or else money would be wasted and about the fuel i cant really help u but i notice mine as soon as i start it up it smells like fuel but goes away and doesnt come back until i start it again. also happened more when i changed fuel pump so maybe a leak somewhere or just i never noticed it before

all i say is have someone handy (like a thread repair guy who can come over) to pull the studs out if you cant, that will probably be your biggest problem but apart from that should be okay if u have the tools and not too bad with your hands and to answer your question above, i got my mobile mechanic to do the work and another mobile guy came for the threads

they blend in real nice with black yes u have to pay a fine for defects, yes they probably are illegal in nsw but they are very close to clear i rekon can be had for about $70 or so kudos motorsport i got mine from + a nismo gear knob

1000 is a bit steep. look at it this way mechanic has approx 4-6 hours work putting on/off all components to get to it. so that would be probably $300 mark than a thread repair guy will come to extract broken stud, $50 to $500 depending how many/what damage has been done/time spent blah blah that materials will cost you about $200 ($120 for exhaust gasket, $45 for turbo one, $2 each stud and $2 each locknut all from nissan) so really shouldnt be no more than $800 at most considering you dont need to pay thread repair guy $500 mine all up was $700 including parts, labour etc.. thread repair guy said he has never seen anything so bad in his life ($350 he charged) so im guessing yours aint that bad people have done it themselves and it only cost them the gaskets plus some ezy-outs so depends really...

i do on my black car, no trouble with cops so far but only had the car for about 4 months

do u feel it through your pedal? mine vibrates/makes an aweful sound from 2000 to 2500 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th ive been told its just the clutch out of balance at that sort of rpms so not to worry about it

thanks fellas, went down to just jap and they found some... not what they told me on the fone so i was going down to buy one and i got all three so thats a bonus

must be zoom, looked through issue 76 of hpi and nothing in there

hey fellas not sure if its in the right spot to ask but where would sell some black silcone joiners for IC piping? just jap has 1 i am after (2.5" straight) but not the other 2 ( 2 of 3" to 2.5" reducer) which will be min 4 weeks wait. GCG has them for $80 each but im not willing to pay that any ideas?

what are the features of this bov? is it adjustable for plumb back/atmo or just loud to soft atmo?

hey fellas just wondering how the hello do i take the crimped positive battery terminal off the positive lead of my car? i dont think i can wedge something in it and loosen it off the wire as it is solid as! and i feel that if i cut it after the crimp it will not be long enough to reach the terminal. surely someone has done this before and has some advice for me? is it possible to maybe remove the positive wire from a source further back ? ie in the black fuse box somehow?

just check the usual things like all filters are in good conditon, spark plugs are also in working order etc have u serviced the car recently? could be a blocked fuel filter

i get about 300km per tank (55-60L to fill up) afr are at about 12 on the dyno. standard ecu with a fuel cut defender new spark plugs, all filters and oils. crap isnt it?