tek_01

also to add something, purpose afaik for a FCD is to clamp afm voltage so it doesnt sense too much airflow...whether the ecu decides to go into r+r or fuel cut is beyond me

wouldnt you think that cutting the fuel on a car would be very dangerous? or perhaps its ok if its completely cut rather than leaned out... hmmm well i have a fuel cut defender (hey just realised you may be right lol) to stop the ecu spazzing out... which what i thought was R+R running 14psi through stock turbo with stock coil packs and 1.0mm gap on platinums with no missing at all, been like that for a year so far.. 204kws with a fairly decent curve ANYHOW, to the original poster you are getting whatever u want to call it and as others have said you need some sort of engine management to sort it out btw mine couldnt even boost to 8psi without it crapping itself (that was with a full exhaust system only)

yes the rubber things are the generic anti squeal shims sort of thing, i will give them a try what the hell is descaling ? must look it up... keep the ideas coming guys, im going to beat this . i dont give a f**k

i thought so, the input bearing or some shit like that oh well, my synchros dont feel too good anyways so maybe next clutch change i will get the box done aswell jeez.. 2 grand right there

by 75k i mean it was bought with 53k on the clock which i doubt is true (as in the importers etc wound it back like they do with most imports) yes gearbox oil has been changed with i think it was vmx80 and nulon additive

in that photo, i would think all clutches get that mark after use? but im not sure as ive only ever replaced 1 clutch myself and didnt really have a good look at the old one i actually got a button clutch + flywheel my old boss gave me that had the exact same noise but it only done it on take off not at about 2k rpm like mine will have a look at that and see if i find anything sus

yeah i did but im going to do a full brake flush when i get the chance with some new fluid and thinking of getting some QFM pads for the front, use copper grease and hopefully i get some better results with standard rotors and stock nissan pads it done it maybe 20% of the time but this is like 80% if not more

i dont know what is causing the squealing but it is only coming to a stop, so pulling in to a driveway it does it the worst sounds like the pad on the rotor but who knows

i would hardly think using brake cleaner would cause squeal as that is its designed purpose i might try this copper grease just got a laugh to see what happens just to make sure i do it correct there is 2 shim and then the pad so... piston -> shim 1 -> shim 2-> brake pad -> rotor so i put grease between piston and shim 1 & shim 1 and shim 2 and even between shim 2 and brake pad?

thanks mate, yeah knew it was going to be a cnt of a job. N13 gearbox = approx 40kg lol! baby gearbox to make things clear i will explain again, pretty sure everyone understood anyway pedal is not pressed and gear is in neutral = whirring sound (bearing is making contact and shaft is spinning even tho its neutral) pedal is pressed = no sound (as this pulls the shaft out of the gearbox so its not spinning no more so no more sound correct?)

as mentioned above, open boot and unclip the carpet thing to get access to the botls and the light connector (2 each side from memory) also there are white clips that hold it in place (probably 4 in total) so it wont just fall off you need to get something to pry it open to pop the clips off like a screwdriver in a rag or something so it doesn't damage anything

yes every gear it does it at exactly the same rev's (1st and 2nd is not as noticeable as the revs go up much quicker) 75k on the car but i doubt thats true...

sounds like i have to do that... i've never taken a RWD car gearbox out with the tailshaft etc and i've heard you have to rotate the gearbox to get it off as well??? + its going to be a bucket load heavier than my old n13 gearbox LOL so im a bit iffy about it

to the few posts above, yes i did clean the new rotors with brake cleaner to make sure theyre not oily exact same problem as bubba, 90% of the time squeals 10% doesnt its bullshit

what do u mean by seperate the two? you mean take the gearbox off so i can get to the bearing or actually open up the gearbox? throw out bearing = bearing that goes on the fork that presses on your pressure plate? maybe i shouldnt of used the word violently, its more the feeling of a button clutch (but seems like its getting a bit harsher as time goes on) altho im 99% sure its not a button coz its not on/off there is play there like a normal clutch.. has no problem spinning the wheels either

nah no high pitched noise, quite the opposite

3 stops from about 60 to 10 than another 5 stops from 100 to about 20 (medium force). drove around for ten minutes than parked the car

oh forgot to mention that i also chamfered the leading and trailing edges of the pads and rubbed them with 80 grit sandpaper thanks

Ill try explain the best what happens when driving between 2k and 2.5k rpm i get a grinding sort of noise in EVERY gear. dont know what it sounds like but its driveline related... mechanic said it was flywheel out of balance or something to that exten. also i do get axle tramp (well the back jumps up and down uncontrollably when spinning at the end of first gear) I have pineapples and sway bars fitted but still standard shocks/springs also i get vibrations that are felt through the whole car but especially the steering wheel when i reach approx 105kmph and get worse as i go faster ALSO feels like when i release the clutch it grabs violently sometimes no matter how gently i try to let go. I dont know what clutch i have in there but it is heavier than standard but dont think its a twin plate (could be wrong) i dont know if these are all related or seperate but i need to start sorting them out oh i also get a noise when im stationary in neutral like a whirring from the gearbox bearing that goes away when i press the clutch pedal so im guess input shaft bearing or somethiong like that? anyhow im thinking centre bearing for the tailshaft for the vibrations? anyone confirm or tell me otherwise?

excuse my stupidity but where is the centre bearing you speak of? i have the same exact problem aswell, approx 105km/h and it shakes, only gets worse and you go faster too have a feeling its the diff or gearbox as it makes a grinding noise between 2-2.5k on each gear aswell AND also can hear a bearing spinning noise (input shaft bearing?) when the clutch is not pressed and its sitting in neutral

very good, yeah i thought it was a bit bogus saying theyre bad sure theyre bad if you dont use the correct means of adjusting them but other than that i think its fair to say theyre ok

ah just replied as i wrote tuning was done a dyno dynamics at both UAS and CRD any idea if they use a WB o2 sensor?

so when measuring the air on a dyno, where does it take the reading from?

hey all got the usual shit squeal with my r33, no matter what i do they sqeal what ive done new rotors front and back, slotted from the group buy cheapie pads up front cheapies at rear (different brand) and guessing stock nissan handbrake shoes used anti squeal, and i have all my shims bled the system and have braided lines not like it makes a difference bed them in properly but still got the squeal sometimes it comes from the front, sometimes back sometimes both and yes EVEN the handbrake squeals (use it sometimes coz its so embarassing pulling up to lights on a bad day) so the only common thing is the brake rotors... it is only when slowing down say under 30kms an hour they start to squeal WHY WHY WHY anyhow they weren't as bad before (still some squeal) with standard rotors and standard nissan pads up front so this is not acceptable, there has to be a reason.... cannot just say thats the way it is anyone have anything i can try or any theories??

Just been reading a bit here and there and came across a thread stating why a FCD is not good for your car basically it clamps voltage at say 4.8v (5v max) so you computer is thinking its only getting xxx amount of air and throws in the correct amount of fuel HOWEVER it is really getting more than xxx air but is only getting the enough fuel for xxx and not the real amount, hence the engine running lean which causes all sorts of dramas now my query is, when you are on a dyno and you are getting your perfect AFR's with a FCD installed. Is that reading the actual amount of air and fuel or its reading what the computer THINKS it is getting? if it is that latter than yes it is dangerous but if thats the case why sell the damn things in the first place??? also from what i know with a SAFC you can control the amount of air/fuel mixture your getting. If the FCD is bad is the AFC better in the way it works? experts please help