tek_01

grinding noise sounds like what i have between 2 and 2.5k rpm one every gear its related to the driveline somewhere but don't know where exactly, either clutch or gearbox is my guess but a few mechanics have heard it and said its not to worry about. Boost feels better at 3k coz thats when the turbz is starting to get a move on, under that and it feels gutless

you can bypass the canister temporarily to see if that is your problem, but i dont see how it can be adjusted... tried cleaning you aac valve? (do a search) got an atmo BOV? maybe thats causing it as cars with AFM's dont really like them or even a vacuum leak somewhere which would probably be the problem that will affect it most

sorry to hijack but there is a H and L with the mesh bit in between where exactly should the oil level be?? over the H? or on the line where the mesh stuff stops??

what tyres are on them, i mean sizes

what is the distance from centre of wheel to guard on the front and rear? or if you cant measure that if theyre not on the car no more, how much lower from standard are they?

even if i am just scuffing back the old paint, not going all the way back to fibreglass? or just primer it anyway?

hey all just going to patch up my front bar and a set of eyelids i bought but i need to know how to go about it. usually all paint jobs i do end up looking dull and especially on FG so what would i be doing, sand back, patch up, putty up with body filler, sand dead smooth than paint with desired colour? should i use anything on nthe bare FG for the eyelids? theyre pretty rough so im going to use some filler and sand them so im happy with them but should i put anything before the paint or is the filler good enough?

series 2 and gtr both do not fit the r33 series 1, different shapes and mounting points. only way to go is get a 'gtr style' or something similar thats made for a series 1

to the top it goes anyone??

can i get a pic of the ciggie burns and the seats? do they fit r33 rails?

anyone have a 400r rear bar for a r33 series 1 gtst in sydney? or any rear bar that you have i may be interested in as long as its not one weird ass chunky mofo lol also after a drift/stealth wing for the same car lemme know thanks

i am not sure about the r34 compatibility.. i will give UAS a call tomorrow if i get a chance and check i have a feeling the brakes will but not the clutch

They are ADR approved as far as i know, thats what was in the ad stated in the group buy I would rather sell as a package because id probably get stuck with a clutch line

will try find out that for you

Item: R33 Set of front and rear braided brake lines + clutch line Age: New Condition: New Price: $200 pickup or $210 delivered To Fit: R33 GTS-T and possibly R34 GTT Location:Bankstown/matraville Contact: Comments: Bought these from the group buy (AboBob's one), Took off my wheels and looked and already had braided lines .. doh! So up fro sale, save $70 compared to group buy price for brake+clutch

price drop again.. $1500 pickup only selling at a loss of hundreds of dollars but i guess thats the price you pay

update, replaced the bushes on the castor rods which didnt look too bad but there were some crack going half way around them (which were a nismo item btw) with some d-project ebay jobbie ones no knocking anymore, so far so good.. were easy to replace as all you had to do was jack the car up, undo 3 buts on each side press out old ones bushes, press in new ones. Don't even bother if you don't have a press

hey fellas got this bloody slow oil leak coming from the section that is at the back of the firewall on the passengers side right down low. theres oil on the plastic cover and all around those lines but im know sure if they are oil lines of some sort of its leaking from up above. Anyhow heres some crappy mobile pics are they my turbo oil lines or power steering lines?? i dont know... looks like motor oil though, not power steering fluid

i have only done a head gasket on my old pulsar but its pretty involved and requires some mechanical knowledge and also tools just to replace the gasket would be pretty easy but it must have gone for a reason, so thats something to think about you would most probably have to machine/face the block and head so u get a nice flat surface someone else would know that has more knowledge than me

i think it will be 3" piping on the aftermarket FMIC, any reason you cant just measure it?

as suggested above, custom return piping will cost you the average of $700 to over 1K than you gotta get the core... so in the end you end up spending more just bite the bullet and get the proper kit as it will fit 100% or just cut it and use any style kit... 180degree bends are no good for airflow anyhow so get a front facing plenum and get the best of both worlds lol

just got home and they were here waiting for me awesome, the clutch hose even has a grey sleeve instead of that ugly ass red one thanks bob

thanks, well i still havent received them but will let u know when they come

yeah i moved the crossover pipe clamps so they werent interfering but it still touched

you wont see the pump it is down the bottom of the tank usually theres a metal cradle that it sits on that is slid in a slot somewhere up the top... have a look better and you should see... probably follow the wires as they are most likely the positive and negative feed to the pump unless im completely wrong and an r34 is very different to r33