indeedy man

Sorry i didnt get the shudder and diff connection yeh well it definitly is alot harder to push the gearstick into gear. but like u say it is probably because its a more viscous oil. other than that it is alot smoother since i changed the oil.

i recently put redline heavy duty shock proof (i think thats what its called) in my gearbox. i havent felt any shudders so to speak but it is a little bit more difficult to shift into gear. espcially 1st when it is cold. is this normal? my mechanic said this was the best stuff around.

hi guys, i have excessive tyre wear on the inside of my tyres. especially on the left or passenger side of the car. what do i need to get so that my camber can be adjusted front and back? i have heard that adjustable bushes can be bought? or is it better to go for an adjustable arm? where is the best place to source these parts? i think they said that the camber was at -2 degrees. thanks for your help if this has been covered sum where else jus let me know thanks

yeh i thought that was too good to be true hahaha. You are right that i dont need it definitely not now anyway. even for what i would want to do to my car in the future i probably wouldnt require that serious a oil setup. but for 1200 big ones i thought it might be worth it.

yeh i thought that was too good to be true hahaha. You are right that i dont need it definitely not now anyway. even for what i would want to do to my car in the future i probably wouldnt require that serious a oil setup. but for 1200 big ones i thought it might be worth it.

So does that $1200 price estimate for a JUN/Tomei/Trust oil pump fitted include an enlarged sump, external oil return, head restrictor and baffles. Or are those extras costs? if so can sum1 give me an estimate for that too. is there a cost difference or preference between the brands? cheers thanks for the info

thanks for the help fellas. i will definitely give it a flush and change the coolant. i was already thinking that would be a good idea. what i felt was strange was that it maintained this temp on highway cruising. anyway il let u know how it goes when i change the coolant and give it a good flush

Hi guys, noticed my speedo needle is shaking when at low speeds like when crawling in traffic. car is a 32 GTR. i recently had the seals on the speedo cable where it goes into the gearbox replaced could it be sumthin to do with this? If sum1 could help me here that would be great thanks

hi guys, lately i have been driving my R32 GTR to work and i have noticed the temp getting up close to 90 when just cruising. i am a bit concerned as its not summer yet and 75% of the journey is cruising at 90-100km/h. the oil i use is motul 300V and my car is pretty stock except for the usual things. anyway if sum1 could let me know what a GTRs normal cruising temp is that would be great. if this is running a little high as i think it mite be what could it be? and how can i fix it? thanks for your help!

thanks hungryhippo look forward to it heheh need help

hi guys, it doesnt seem to be my coil packs. swapped them with a freinds ran his in mine and mine in his gtr and both cars ran fine. a new problem is developing now which i guess is caused by this miss or ignition failure. when idleing the car will suddenly drop revs and sound like it is under heavy labour. when it does this there is heaps of smoke coming from the exhaust which i am gussing is unburnt fuel. hardest thing is the car wont play up all the time so it is very hard to get my mechanic to look at it. again any help would be great

last night i got as far as swapping igniter packs found one of the plugs was very loose however 2day the stutter is back. when it stutters there is a loud pop from the exhaust. would coil packs produce this? also i thought that if the coil packs were playin up it would affect the car when driving normally not just when at high revs? anyway if sum1 could clear that up 4 me that would be great thanks again

forgot to add the car has had a diagnostic done and nothing came up. incorrect spark plug gap was my first guess too. i dont know what they are gapped to as a workshop did this. i thought they might be too wide but the guys there assured me that wasnt the case. keep those ideas comin thanks

hi guys, have a problem i am hoping someone can help me with. the car will stutter ie. revs will stop building just for an instant on full throttle over about 5500rpm all the way to redline. feels like something is momentarily pulling the car back then releasing then pulling back again and again. the problem seems to be worse the colder the surrounding temperatures are for example at night. on a hot day the car will actually rev fine all the way to redline. the problem isnt AFM, have alredy tried changing them over. car has been rebuilt and run in just recently. it also has new spark plugs and all that jazz. rebuild uses mostly stock items except for a slight overbore requiring larger pistons (larry perkins racing series). also computer has been reset twice now. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks