SMiTHBRo

Have you tried running it with the o2 sensor unplugged? An easy way to check an o2 sensor is to remove it, hold the sealing washers and give it a shake, if you hear a rattle, it's a goner. I would also be looking for vacuum leaks and split intake/intercooler hoses.

No T piece required. Block off the original vacuum hose that fed the factory actuator. Plumb the piping exactly as the picture in your link shows. As stated China turbos aren't the best. But they do still work to a certain extent....I wouldn't be pushing it upto 20+ psi as per the ebay specs though.

Run vacuum hose between the barb fitting on the turbo front cover and the actuator barb fitting. Just post a link to the turbo you actually bought....if its 430hp on there my money is on it being a t3/t4 thing.

Still got the tail lights?

Post a pic of the turbo? If there is no actuator on it, it may be externally waste-gated. My only suggestion is to sell the PowerFC and have a Nistune installed, probably cost around the same but you will have the ability to run a flex sensor/E85 down the track.

For anyone interested I've figured out the Nachi part numbers for both front bearings; Input shaft - 22BC06S5X Transfer shaft - 6306CNXC3

Hey guys, I've opened up an RB20 manual gearbox to replace what I assumed was a worn input shaft bearing. It has proven to be the transfer shaft bearing. Done a bit of googling and can't find a definitive part number anywhere. Does anyone know the code for this bearing? It's the one on the left in this pic; Cheers!

My setup is on a different NA RB motor, but still a similar premise. NA+T will work fine, ideally you want it tuned and especially in my case where it's running 16psi. But 5psi through a NEO with an FPR to increase the fuel pressure should be fine, the nature of the factory ECU will compensate the extra air with extra fuel, obviously to a point though. He should definitely run it on a dyno after installing everything to make sure all is well.

Do you mean the EBC wouldn't let you run any more boost? Or the wastegate actuator itself?

Wick it up to 16/18/20 psi? Turbo probably isn't even reaching full efficiency

Financially smart. Could have been done mechanically though! I'm running 16psi through an NA RB motor, without issue. But the compression ratio is slightly lower.

Well there you go...been a while since I played with 20/25 turbos. 5 psi should be fine with a bit more fuel, AFM should do its job and compensate the mixtures.

Also do whatever you want it's your car! NA+T setups are epic fun to drive ?

I think the main problem with achieving 5psi is that the RB25 actuator is set to achieve ~7psi minimum? At least run an adjustable FPR and give it a bit more juice....but ideally you should get it on a dyno asap to confirm the mixtures are happy.

It should be fine to have the manifold and dump braced as you're suggesting. Just make sure there is a flex somewhere in the exhaust otherwise shocks to the system result in breakages of studs or worst case the manifold/dump.