Peter Wilson

The AFM is a Series 1 R33 in good working condition (I bought it because I thought mine was faulty but it wasn't) $100. The Actuator is an aftermarket HKS item that is a bolt-on replacement for the stock item. It has a threaded pushrod so that the wastegate preload can be wound up and hence boost increased. Sort of like putting an R32 actuator on a R33 turbo but fully adjustable and looks stock. $120.

115,000 kms, serviced every 5,000km. Many extras including: * Hybrid front-mount intercooler * HKS pod filter * 3" dump pipe, exhaust and hi-flow cat * Apexi PFC & hand controller & electronic boost control * Pioneer head unit, 6-CD stacker & splits * Autometer boost & air/fuel gauges * HKS turbo timer * Remote central locking, immobiliser and alarm * 17x8" front & 17x9" rear Work Meister (deep-dish, polished) wheels * Nismo front strut brace with master cylinder stopper * Cusco rear brace * Adjustable caster rods * Pedders springs & struts * 196 rwkW, 13.8 sec quarter mile (on crap hard tyres) $16,500 firm

Thanks Bass, That makes sense - the peak reading I was getting was from the peak-hold function, and the actual boost may well have settled back down to a steady 0.85 after the spike. I will look at the trace line more closely. Sounds like the duty setting I have now is as aggressive I can get in boost climb rate without overshooting. Nobody has an answer on why there are 4 lines tho' - if you can control steady peak boost with the first number and climb rate with % duty cycle, why do we need any more than one line of code? I will keep my eye on the 255 number, but it has not changed so far... Cheers, Peter.

Hi guys, I now have my PFC boost control kit hooked up, and it doesn't seem to follow the logic above.... 1 0.70 kg/cm2 48255 2 0.75 kg/cm2 50 255 3 0.80 kg/cm2 54 255 4 0.85 kg/cm2 56 255 When I set the max boost for 0.85 kg/cm2, the duty cycle seemed to affect actual boost more than the boost setting. ie: 0.85 48 gave 0.7 kg/cm2 0.85 70 gave 0.9 kg/cm2 I mucked around and found that 0.85 66 gave the correct 0.85 kg/cm2 max boost level. This seems to match the Apexi AVC-R instructions which say: "When max boost of ACTUAL driving is HIGHER than target boost, adjust the duty LOWER. If the max boost of ACTUAL driving is LOWER than target boost, set the duty HIGHER" This doesn't make sense to me, as the whole point of closed-loop boost control is that the ECU should work out the correct solenoid duty cycle from the pressure sensor, not need to have it keyed in! Also, if the boost is really controlled by the input duty cycle, this makes a lie out of altering boost climb rate by changing this variable... Two other things have me wondering: 1) Why are their four lines for different boost levels? 2) There is a third column, which is set at 255 for all rows and can't be changed via the hand controller - what is this number? Any help welcomed (especially from Sydneykid!) Cheers, Peter.

Needed by next weekend! Thanks, Peter.

Hi guys, Can anyone assist with factory ignition and fuel maps for the R33 GTS25T PFC? Any format is OK - I am just putting them into Excel to compare before and after maps to see what my tuner actually did... Thanks, Peter.

Thanks for your help with this earlier. Just want to make sure I got it right... 1) The PFC DOES control the VVT (aka NVCS) solenoid 2) The clever Apexi people have set the change-over point the same as Nissan (about 5000 rpm) 3) There is disagreement on whether this change-over point can be changed by Datallogit, but all seem to agree it cannot be changed by hand controller Is that it in a nutshell? Cheers, Peter.

Hey guys, can you please provide a link to the VVT thread? I can't find it by any obvious searches... Also, is NVCS the same thing? Sydneykid - I am already using NGK BCPR6ES gapped at 0.8mm. The dyno guy suggested my missfire may be improved by reducing it further...

Thanks Sydney Kid, I'll do some searching for VVT (didn't know what the correct acronym was...). Looks like I'm stuck with whatever Apexi have done in the PFC. Thanks for the plug advice, that's what I'm using now. Maybe I need to reduce the gap further (from 0.8 to 0.7 or 0.6?) at this boost level. Peter.

Hi all, I've just got a PFC running on my R33, and all is well after some tuning (196 rwkw at 12 psi). Does anybody know if the PFC controls the standard Nissan inlet cam solenoid or not? If so, when does it cut-in and can this be adjusted? I can find no menus that relate to this on the hand controller. Also (unrelated), what plugs and gaps are guys using to get good spark and no missfires with standard coils at 12 psi? Thanks in advance, Peter.

Hey Lucien, Please add me to the list also (R33 GTS25T S1). I have sent you a PM with a couple of questions re payment also. Great effort mate - I hope it all works out. Cheers, Peter.

Thanks guys - sounds like a doctored RB20 actuator or HKS item is the way to go. Who are cost-competitive HKS agents in Adelaide? Is it true that RB20s run higher boost than RB25s? Do they also have a boost solenoid or do they just have a stronger wastegate spring? Cheers. Peter.

Next dumb question... How good is the standard "off the shelf" program in a Power FC for a R33 GTST? I hear that you buy a specific Power FC for a particular model car, and that they are good enough to plug-in and drive away. Is this true? I know that to get best benefits I will have to have it dyno tuned - about how much should this cost? Who are good Power FC tuners in Adelaide? Is it worth buying the Power FC programmer or is this just dangerous? For info, the car has the following mods: 3" full zorst incl hi-flow cat Hybrid FMIC HKS pod 12 psi via bleeder NGK plugs gapped to 0.8mm Mines ECU (maybe to be replaced...) Thanks again, Peter.

Hi all, Can anyone out there help me about wastegate actuators? There don't seem to be many threads on this... I want to buy an aftermarket actuator set for 12 psi (same as I currently run via bleed valve), to suit a standard R33 turbo. Don't want a boost controller - I can do this with my right foot. Just something to limit max boost, without the spikes and variations of my bleed, and that looks stock. My questions are: Who makes them? Where can I buy one? How much? How well do they work (spool up, driveability etc)? Thanks guys, Peter.

Nope - probably sold (just waiting for payment)

Part number KCA347, to suit rear suspension of R33. Reduces negative camber when car is lowered. New in original packaging - never installed (I bought it before my wheel align, which turned out to be OK). RRP is about $130.

Bump...

Bump

Al - To put them on the front of my R33, I used thin spacers to avoid having to shave anything off the calipers. I can provide these if required. The rims weigh about the same as stock 16" rims, but of course the 17" tyres would be a bit heavier. I can weigh the two together and get back to you if you want. Matt - just got your PM - I will call you tomorrow.

Bump...

SlyR33 - check your PM!

Here is a picture of all four rims. There was a close-up in my original post but it has disappeared - will repost this one.

C'mon guys - there must be more people after wide 17" rims than that!! Make me a (sensible) offer - even if you're interstate... I'm sure freight won't be more than $150 or so.

Here is a pic of the tyres for those who have asked...

Hi h3roic5, The tyres are Continental ContiSport (made in Germany). Good quality, sticky tyres - not Taiwanese cheapies. Fronts have good tread, rears are legal. Cheers, Peter.