MagicMikeZ32

Naturally

my car

That is stupidly cheap man. Never let mine go for that

He is a good egg. And it is a nice 33.

Jr.?

Something else to look at will be cam gear balance.

What cams and springs you running?

Txt sent re link and momo

I am not in any great hurry, seeing as I am now on a work only licence. Only real time constraint is Zedfest You going to make the trip?

Sounds good in theory but I would like to see them tested first tbh. Havent seen anyone using them on a running engine as yet

You guessed it

Engine out before lunch on Saturday. Getting the manifolds off took longer than the engine pull (turbos get in the way of everything). Engine pulled to chase down what sounded like an exhaist mani gasket leak. I was concerned when the gaskets looked fine :s But while I was prepping the manifold faces for re-install I happened to hold it at just the right angle and noticed daylight through the manifold wall At least I found the cause. Hopefully a quick weld and it'll be good to go. Also installed a new knock sensor and harness because it is impossible to install in OEM location with engine in. While the engine is out I will run new turbo coolant lines, chuck in the new clutch and fix up the air-con hardlines.

You're crazy

Don't have anything specific sorry.

Sold!

Mine pulled this much Nearly there Using this method (guards lips already flattened): Shamelessly stolen from the 300 forum. I used this to get my rears to fit and it works a treat! First of all, you're going to want to jack up the rear by the tow hook, and remove he rear wheel. The you're going to want to disconnect the lower mount of the rear shock. Remove the nut and bolt, and swing the lower mount out of the way. Make sure the lower mount is clear of everything. You do not want it to catch on anything. With the car in the air, and the wheel at full droop, this is what it looks like: Not too bad, but remember it will camber in a bit, like so: The fender just catches the tire, so rubbing will occur. Next, you're going to want to heat up the fender, from where I'm point at, and to the right. Use either a heat gun, or if you're brave, a propane torch, lol You want to hit the fender from the bottom and up, to heat up the lip of the fender on both sides. Next, grab about less than a thumb's width of newspaper for the initial treatment. Again, I'm using mechanic's paper floor mats. It works just as well. With the fender heated, stuff the newspaper into the wheel arch, between the fender and tire. Make sure to have the newspaper span the whole area you heated up, or else you'll pull one section more than the other. Then you're going to drop the car slowly, until the tire touches the floor, and the wheel begins to tuck itself inside the fender. Now, it will make some noise it is just the sound of the fender sliding over the newspaper. Let it sit for couple of minutes, to give the fender time to cool off and take shape. You're going to want to then raise the car and remove the paper. Drop it back down to where you're tucking tire, like so: You're going to want to check for rubbing issues. What I do is take some thin paper, and slide it between the tire and fender: If the paper snags, then you still need to pull more. The tire was touching the fender in the area between where the paper is placers in the two pics. Again, heat up the fender, and grab more paper. Rinse and repeat as needed. You can see the fender slowly taking a flat flared look Just as a warning, the driver side fender will require more effort to pull, due to the gas cap there reinforcing the fender. So don't freak out if you need significantly more newspaper on the driver side than on the passenger side. Keep repeating the process by adding a slight amount more newspaper at every pass. My passenger side took 2 passes. Driver side took 4. Again, this is normal. And here are the results:

That'll pull surely. Newspaper method

Rob260 is doing a group buy on Ikeya Formula stuff atm on aus300zx.com. He is a member on here also, might be worth asking for prices on R33 arms?

Still for sale!

Adjustable lca/uca etc

balls

mould

PM sending

Not sure what the ebay link is pointing at because work pc. But

matches