dmr

since he was over the BAC level, his insurance (if he has any) shouldn't cover him, which means in the end you will most likely be paying for your damages but not his. you could probably try and take it to court but that would only mean time loss and headaches. wait till you go into the police station to sort stuff out before a claim is made to the insurance company and see if you can strike a deal with him. otherwise, a couple bricks through all his windows would be a lovely present back to him

sorry to hijack, but what sort of boost levels does the standard afm's max out at? i keep hearing different things about when they usually max out.

hey guys, looking for a turbo upgrade. looking for either a T3 from a VL turbo or an R33 RB25DET turbo. any similar sized turbos without massive lag (for RB20) also considered. prefer melbourne as i would like to inspect it first. cheers, dave

since the RB25DE came out on the R32, i would imagine that the only main thing needed to clear an engineers cert would be bigger brakes. everything else is pretty fit for an RB25DET.

NTSC format in gaming has been out long before HD TV's were out. so i wouldn't agree.

i have federal 595's also and they're a great tyre. awesome grip and awesome price.

willing to seperate the turbo?

what you are looking for is the N1 lip. they cost between $100-150 for fibreglass copies.

a friend of mine has ROH dished 20's on his R32. he had to put spacers on the front to clear the brake calipers, and is using standard shocks and springs. click for pics

i use gates racing myself, and they're noisy buggers. apart from that they seem to be high quality and last a long time.

correct. your front bar is type-m. the other bar is the aero option. there are many type-m options which we don't even know about! funkymonkey made a thread on this a while back with pictures.

nice result. good to see the lil RB20's getting up there in power!

bit of interest, but no cash! any takers?

thanks for the clarification. i agree; but is there a manufactured exhaust out there on the market (say, mid and rear mufflers only) which has great flow and very little restriction that stays under the 90dB limit? shoving a heap of mufflers in an exhaust will only kill performance.

i highly doubt a 4" exhaust from turbo back will come near passing. when i went through an EPA test a year ago, i put a stock dump/front pipe and got a custom 2" rear muffler made with a peashooter tip from the last flange back. i just passed by 1dB. no idea on what stock ECU's cost but i'm sure any performance place or jap wreckers can source one. if your boost controller is a T-peice type, all you need is hose and 10 mins. this is the world of jap cars where the law hates us. gotta live with it bud! post your outcome and good luck, dave.

well if all is good for the moment don't stress. i would go out and get some ford thermos for the car (EL model i think) which i was told would cost between $40-80 from wreckers. upgrade at a cheap cost, and all you have to do is make custom brackets.

what fmic kit is that, and where did you get it from? that fitment looks pretty tacky to me, or maybe it wasn't installed properly. most fmic kits will require you to cut a couple millimeter from the fan blades, if that. most skyline temp guages sit on half if the cooling system is healthy. there hasn't been a fmic install that has affected the radiator flow bad enough to cause engine temps to rise and i wouldn't say it would affect much now that you've cut a majority of the fan blades. i'll say as nismoid did to watch your temps during summer. especially when idling or in traffic, as this is when your engine fans are most likely to come on. if it poses as a problem in the future you can always upgrade to ford/holden twin thermos which are pretty cheap and pretty much bolt on or you can go with aftermarket kits. cheers, dave.

sounds bogan to me

370 sounds a bit more reasonable if it was pushed to it's absolute limit. would like to know how long it lasted haha.

go GTR bov as it can hold high boost pressure without leaking. most 3" catback exhausts will fail the test so invest in a stock one. if you can't find a standard exhaust, you can always try stuffing heaps of steel wool just before the cat. PFC will have to go.

+2 for .63 RB20 already suffers from lag.

smells like bullshit in here. sorry but i just cannot beleive these figures, especially on stock internals and chinese copy parts. 50+ dyno runs? RB20 hasn't been seen past 300rwkw.. and that's WITH forged internals, head work and quality parts. please post some proof. Roy, get your ass in here!

i have momo wheel, shoulder pads and ebrake cover. momo is a good quality reputable brand so i'm happy to use it. autotechnica on the other hand...

1. with the spark plug valley cover off, unplug the harness of each coilpack one by one, and see if the engine sound changes. if you come across one that doesn't change the engine sound then that coilpack may not be working efficiently. 2. try changing your spark plugs and see if they're fouled. i use NGK BKR7E myself and so do my friends. we haven't come across any problems. 3. from past experiences, running anything over ~10PSI for a prolonged time will cause the fuel pump to slowly die and get worse over time. this may also be the culprit of your stuttering problem but it could be one of many little things. cheers, dave.

RB20DET, NGK BKR7E, 0.8mm, 13psi, ~170