dmr

if you decide to stay with an RB20 you're best bang for buck would be the 2530. fast spool, reliable power, low mounted, fits factory manifold and dump. probably the best turbo built for the RB20. have a read of the RB20 upgrade thread as it may give you a heads up on what parts and costs are involved in getting to the power figure you want.

i can't beleive you installed and tested the boost controller without a boost guage! you could seriously do some damage to your engine. your car is likely to splutter due to ecu fuel cut because of free boost or very high boost. remove the controller and ensure you install a boost guage before you start fine tuning the boost controller, otherwise you may damage your engine. also, i wouldn't advise running more than 12PSI without a dyno tune because your car may lean out. cheers, dave.

looks tuff with the 33gtr rims abu

only looks tuff on highly modified cars

Hey guys, i'm posting this ad for a friend of mine: Make: Nissan Year: 1991 Model: Skyline HCR32 GTS-t Type-M Engine: RB20DET 2.0L turbo Milage: 153,000 km Transmission: 5 speed manual Colour: Black Location: Preston, Melbourne Complied? yes Registration: TQC501 exp JUL08 RWC supplied? yes Price: $10,000 Contact: Chris 0450 310 177 Mods: 3" kakimoto exhaust GT28RS ball bearing turbo - 2 months old, hasn't ran more than 10psi 600x300x75mm hybrid front mount intercooler K&N pod filter Bosch 040 fuel pump - 2 months old GTR injectors with resistor pack (not installed) 20" ROH dish rims greddy turbo timer boost guage genuine skyline floor mats cd player comes with stock rims + tyres, airbox, gearknob

SOLD!

whats it worth to hiflow and clean injectors?

vg30 gearbox is close to a rear wheel drive version of the GTR gearbox. i'd say the RB25 gearbox is stronger.

i was told that the chance of front guards cracking paint from flaring is pretty high, especially on the straight edge R32 shape. so to tackle a really bad scrubbing problem (after i got myself some camber for the fronts), i changed the fronts from 235/45/R17 tyres to 215/45/R17. no more scrubbing, and i got some stretch which suits the back stretched tyres

3rd year apprentice painter (& decorator). will be getting into sign writing when i finish this apprenticeship.

otherwise, do it jap spec: looks so easy!

welcome! nice ride you have there

or if you have a baseball bat, buy a baseball and a mit. if cops ask, you play baseball occasionally. worked for me

it should come set to 10PSI

i locked my hicas and looped the lines at the rear. i wouldn't advise blocking the lines as it's a high pressure system and will destroy the rear of your power steering pump. my car is alot more predictable now when sliding, and feels more stable.

if you unplug the hicas harness, the steering will stay stiff. you have to snip the green wire with the white trace line on the bigger harness to disconnect hicas without damaging anything.

sounds like fuel pump. never heard of a OEM FPR stuffing up under such small load. if funds are the issue, try and source an R32 GTR fuel pump. they're good for 250kw+

bump!

hey there, my friend and i both had this same exact problem. his was while he had hicas and mine was after i removed hicas. the cause is air in your power steering lines. you may have a leak which is causing air to get in, but chances are slim since the system is high pressure and you would see oil everywhere or your hicas light would stay on in your cluster. give it a couple days of driving and using the steering wheel, and it should bleed itself out. otherwise, open the power steering cylinder cap in your engine bay and turn the wheels side to side for about 10 mins. if all else fails, flush the system and start over. hope that helps, dave.

turned 21 yesterday. still feel like i'm underage

wow, this car is an animal. great to see nissan using their technology at it's best; as always. hope to hear of this X model or whatnot.

on my RB20DET i have a hiflow cat, small oval centre muffler, and hotdog rear muffler. my old setup was hiflow cat, big oval centre muffler, and big oval rear muffler. i saw no power difference with the old quietened exhaust to the new one. the only difference is the loudness and deeper note. as R31Nismoid said, you won't see the difference in restriction at low power.

what timing belt did you use? me and a few of my friends have installed gates racing timing belts for our cars. after the install, we noticed an extra whirring/squeaking/rotating sound added to the engine when the car is warm. it's because of the new belts tightness, and over time it will loosen itself to it's perfect tension. if not, it will remain with that sound which isn't a bad thing. it might put a tiny bit of stress on your idler and tensioner, but i find it safer to have a belt a lil tight rather than a little loose.. especially at high revs.

have you got a link roy?

i left mine off when i changed my cat, had no problems since.