dmr

thank you very much gary for your informative post. i do understand that over time things can go out a little, but what i didn't mention is that my car has had a tap from the front passenger side before i brought the car, on the angle between the bumper bar and the guard. it wasn't a big hit, but it may have made that little difference. i'm going to go and see my panel beater and see if he can organise for my car to go on a jig and see all the measurements. a mechanic said that it may be a bent/wrecked hub because of the left wheel not being flush with the guard as the right one is, but i have a feeling it may be the subframe/crossmember that's causing this, otherwise if that fails i think it may be my strut tower. a friend who is well into his technical side of things says that if it was the strut tower, i would have noticed the suspension difference, and the shocks would have made noises due to strain or wear already. i'll see what i can organise and keep you posted, once again thanks for your help! to me that's a bandaid fix, i prefer to do it properly. i don't think i'm going to go down the path of shims now, but thanks buddy for your input because i'm a paranoid perfectionist, and want everything fixed right the first time. i'll give you an example: i don't use cable ties. everything must be mounted properly. cheers.

the temp probe should be connected to the vertical radiator support bar. if someone hasn't already by the time i finish work, i'll take a pic of it for you.

the climate control will let air through the vents naturally, unless you press the button which cycles the air in the car (next to the AMB button) which will close the vents. your temp display shows -30deg because the sensor must have been disconnected. it's a small black plastic object located infront of the radiator and near the horns. plug it back up and it will show the correct temperature.

just an update: i went to Tims Tyres on hume highway campbellfield and they were great, showing me through the process of the wheel alignment. thumbs up to them! this is the front info from the data sheet after the wheel alignment: left camber: -2.37 deg right camber: -2.83 deg left caster: 4.79 deg right caster: 5.84 deg left toe: 0.4mm right toe: 0.4mm total toe: 0.9mm the car still pulls to the left slightly under braking and quick accelerating, which is the problem i'm trying to fix. before i done the alignment, i changed my front castor rods to perfectly straight ones, and the front lower control arms to R33 ones. (which give negative camber) you can visually see that the castor on the left is closer to the sideskirt, and that the wheel is tucked into the guard slightly, whereas the castor on the right side is in the centre and the wheel is almost flush with the guard. what i'm asking is does anyone know what could be slightly out to cause this? this whole situation is doing my head in and i want to fix it properly, without the help of adjustable aftermarket parts.

drone is that annoying humming sound from an exhaust that's too loud. if you're half mechanically minded, install the exhaust yourself. other installing a full exhaust shouldn't take more than 2-3 hours at a workshop. aftermarket dump and front pipes REDUCE turbo lag. catalytic converters should be either high flow or punched for best efficiency. a bigger tip will do nothing to performance, but might make it slightly louder if that.

i've had 3 different cat back exhaust systems on my R32. from what i've tried, i've found my ideal setup. 3" stainless steel, small oval mid muffler, hotdog rear muffler. the idle purr's, it's deep at low-mid revs but doesn't sound too loud where it's going to annoy the neighbours, and it opens up and gets loud high in the rev range. i wouldn't advise anything with two oval/big mufflers, as it will be deadened quite alot and lack the deep sound. then again, having two hotdog mufflers would be too loud. so i stayed inbetween the 2

mmm intercooled mums.

the R33 GTS box is the same as the R32 GTS-t, so should fit snug.

i've got a custom made 20mm wood parcel shelf supporting 2x 8" subs. sounds alot better than my old setup with 12" pioneer sub in the boot. very clear, doesn't rattle.. and the best thing: you can't hear anything from outside the car, but inside the car it's like a nightclub.

i have splits in the front, and had to modify the speaker housing it sits in. apart from that, fits fine. once the seats are out, its just screws

Beer Baron's right on the money. most imports don't mean much unless you have the books to prove it's past. anyways, good luck with the sale bud.

put it up for $25k, see how you go. you'll most likely get brought down, even by a GTR collector. what have you got to lose?

any bonnet with an air passage going into the engine, means water on a heavily rainy day will go into the engine bay.

if you had the right press for it then it wouldn't be a problem. i end up re-threading it and she fit on sweet.

nice to see something different what are you going to do about the gearbox? slamming gears, clutch kicks.. the wrx gearbox won't like that at all.

whats peoples opinions of chop and welding (to shorten) a standard gearknob?

haha yes it was that guy. the ball joints are perfect, it's just one of the studs has a fried thread.. and he's tried grinding the tip of the stud to make a thread again, but that didn't work. i just rang up a friend mechanic and he advised not to press the joints out.

i'd like to know also. can the ball joints from the lower control arms be pressed out and replaced? i have R32 LCA's, and want to put the ball joints on my new R33 LCA's (the R33 ball joints are threaded) i heard you can press the ball joints out, but i also heard you can wreck something in the process. anyone know?

haha, true that. get the R33 my friend

get what appeals to you most

considering when i visited last week they had a holden up on the hoist, and rush and his family all drive holdens for dailys.. haha. so much shit he cops!

speaking for myself and alot like my friends, we always prefered the shape of the R32 before we owned one. tuff street style. but hey, that's us. we're all different. everyone on here knows the RB25 is better stock to stock. newer technology, better response with bigger turbos, and can acheive a higher power rating. everyone has their personal preference. i know if i wanted to go out and get higher in the power figures i would use an RB25.. even over an RB26. but i've got what i've got, and it surely does what i want it to do with ease. we own RB engines, so we should be arguing with SR or CA owners, not ourselves.

hai used to be driftline's main mechanic for ages.. he knows his shit

i brought my car from there almost 2 years ago, and have always gone back since. since then rush has become a good friend of mine and will always help me out when it's needed. he can be pricey, but once you go back to him a few times you build up a "trust fund". if you want things done properly, he will do it properly. he's good for that. he's been real busy at the moment and he's quite hard to catch, but he has his mechanic monty running the show when he's occupied.

i'd advise using genuine nissan. repco/bursons rubbers and seals are crap and have always failed on me.