dmr

if its doing its job then let it be. if you decide to reach a higher power level and it starts to slip, then replace it.

hey guys, i have an exedy hd cushioned button clutch which i got installed not too long ago. i also got the flywheel machined and a new thrust bearing. the car's been alright for a while, and the clutch feels normal, but over the last couple weeks it's started to hiss at friction point (when the clutch touches the flywheel). the clutch doesn't slip, or drive any different to when i got it installed. it drives the exact same. what i did notice though is that it does shudder when i take off in 1st gear. i always thought it was because the clutch grabs really fast/well. my mechanic says i've glazed my clutch or flywheel, but i don't ride on the clutch like an L plater would driving a manual car. i was told that it would wear away after a while but it hasn't. the hiss is quite loud if you're standing outside the car. what should i do in this situation? is my only option to get the flywheel re-machined? your opinions...

not bad!

i personally use Motul Turbolight, and so do alot of other RB/SR motorists. best all rounder, and only costs ~$50 per 5L. the spark plugs may also cause the spluttering. if the gap is too big then boost will blow out the spark, causing a misfire/splutter as FATAZZ said. try using NGK BKR7E or BKR6E. they're my personal fav. i've tried BCPR7ES and BCPR6ES but didn't like them as they caused my car to slightly misfire. your mechanic probably put NGK iridiums, as most mechanics like to make you spend the extra dollar if you don't know what's best. iridiums are crap and waste of money. stick with copper plugs. hope this helps

when the car is cold it will run in 'rich and retarded' mode until the temperature reaches normal. you'll get flat spots and fuel cuts. this is common. if it's happening even when the car's warmed up then it may be a fuel cut due to lack of fuel or leaning out. have you got an aftermarket fuel pump? what boost are you running? sounds like she's running rich. re-tuning the car will stop this once you set a nice A/F ratio. wouldn't worry about it too much for the moment, it's better running rich than lean. have you blocked off the standard bov? is your aftermarket bov too tight? does it flutter? having a blocked bov will cause it to stall. it doesn't catch the idle in time and just cuts out. does it crank over and start spluttering for a couple seconds, until the engine pulls the revs up? this may be due to the heat range spark plugs you use or the viscosity of the cold temp for the engine oil you use. what spark plugs and engine oil do you use? if it's leaning out up top it may sound like it has no balls, but the RB20 usually has most of it's power up top. dyno tuning the car will show why it feels like crap up top.

please don't put some ebay special crap on your skyline. get it TUNED properly, the results will prove.

even if you ripped off all the glue, the bolts alone will hold the spoiler down firmly

1. there are a few bolts which you can see under the boot lid, undo those. 2. the centre part of the spoiler is held on by a big 4-way clip. this is a b*tch to get off! 3. disconnect the brake light harness 4. all that's left is double sided tape, which is inbetween the spoiler and the boot lid. make sure you don't rip the paint off or leave any hefty scratches while taking the tape off. hope that helps

im soon to install a hicas lock bar, as hicas has caught me off guard a couple times which can get really annoying.

thanks once again Abu cheers, dave.

found one, cheers.

SOLD!

hey guys, i'm selling a Blitz Super Sound blow off valve with hotpipe. i had this on my car for a while so i can guarantee its perfect working order. i have no use for it anymore as i've gone back to standard BOV. can be used on any turbo-intercooled car. $100 (firm), and it's yours! contact through PM or SMS 0422 789 499 located in reservoir, melbourne. pick up only

where abouts you located?

willing to swap for import!

looking for a resistor pack to fit with my new GTR injectors on my RB20. cheers, dave.

sold to me

Fero, you have PM

i've got a mid muffler and rear cannon muffler. the car is quiet on idle but loud high in the revs. i still get adequate flow without having the drone sound.

i can highly vouch for this car as being immaculate inside and out. very fussy owner like myself who takes care of the car and instantly grows grey hairs when coming across a new noise or problem. the car has always been maintained with quality items and has never come across any major problems. would have to say even though this car is all the way back from '89, she's alot cleaner, smoother and respectable than alot of other GTR's on the road. shocked to see a car come with service history from 3,000KM! he looked a long while for the right GTR, which was this. i can easily say that the first determined buyer will find this car hard to walk away from. will be very sad to see this go, no more car wash partner! haha. good luck with the sale, and all the best with the new car you decide to get. cheers, dave

my friends and i are currently wrecking a 2 tone grey manual CA18 S13. interior and exterior parts (inc chassis) are up for sale. the car has not been involved any major damage. parts not available: engine, ecu, loom, exhaust, windows, wheels and front bumper. located in preston, melbourne 3072. pickup only. contact through priv msg, call 0432 221 244 or sms 0422 789 499 if there is no answer/reply. throw us an offer, but no stupid offers! here's some pics:

deposit taken for blitz bov, pending payment

deposit taken for blitz bov, pending payment

anything but a 33!

get a single chamber front/dump pipe combo.. saves having an extra gasket for nothing. i wouldn't advise getting a decat pipe unless you're game.. cops don't like them too much my opinion, go with a highflow cat. if you are interested in getting a decat pipe pm me.