dmr

spewing

CLICKETY CLICK!

another each to their own thread

around $50, wouldn't pay more than $80

even with upgrading to a bigger front/dump pipe, the stock turbo wouldn't hold anything over 10psi very well.

what did you line the edges with?

me too. so annoying!

the plug connected to the airflow meter? yes.

the RB26 uses more oil than an RB20

i know how you feel bud. it took me a while but my list of things to fix is almost finished, it just takes time. you gotta expect this sorta thing from an old car. every similar age holden and ford i've seen has ALOT more problems than i've seen in mine and my friends' jap cars. these problems you have arn't huge and don't cost too much to fix. get the bigger ones out of the way like the radiator before it causes grief, and leave the cosmetic and comfortability for after. my car has done ~150,000km. it missfires, idles a bit funny, it's running rich, and it needs a nice tap of the accelerator when cranking it over to get her breathing. apart from those few little things it runs like a dream. this is because i always look after the little things and change things asap rather than leaving it till a later date. hope that helps

HAHA, nicely said.

of course, for track use only!

any takers?

if the cat has shit itself the sensor should tell you it has. i'd be checking the plugs before you dish out money, and/or changing them to 0.8 gap rather than 1.0mm. can you hear any sort of high pitched hissing noise under boost? have you checked all your piping?

3" - optimal performance

i got mine tested a while back and from what i remember rb20 and rb25 have to be revved to 4800rpm. had to get a custom made cat-back exhaust made just to pass the test

when the radiator reaches certain high temps (i think it's ~90 degrees), the clutch fan will turn on. this is what the "whoooo" sound is. it's completely normal.

i was running 10psi for a while and that gap is fine. BKR7E are 1 heat range colder than BKR6E.

i've had the clutch for a while. recently i had to change the master cylinder as it was leaking, but the clutch was bled properly..

BKR7E 0.8mm gap

a trusted name turbo will always be better bang for buck in the end.

as nismoid said, spring bov's are completely fine, unless the spring has lost it's tention. even my 15 year old standard bov is still as strong as an ox. check all piping which air travels through and you might find your boost pressure drop problem, but i doubt it's bov related. you'll know when your coilpacks are dieing as you'll get misfire under boost. they won't have anything to do with leaking boost. also considering you own a newer model skyline i doubt the coilpacks would already be on their way. when you tighten the screw on your bov it's adjusting the spring tight enough so that no air travels through the bov, and just bounces back and forth between the turbo and the throttle body making the flutter sound. it makes the aftermarket bov useless as it's not even being used. you're better off taking it off and just blocking the standard bov for the same effect and sound. there's always big debates that compressor surge (turbo flutter) is bad for the standard ceramic/nylon turbo and will cause damage. in my theory it will cause shaft play over time because of forcing the momentum of the compressor and exhaust wheels back and forwards which they're not designed to do. also not to mention that your fuel economy will go out the window, and your car will run jerky and retarded. just to be safe i wouldn't do it. my2c

edit: double post

i think it might need more than adjustment... anyone know what might cause this?

anyone?