dmr

in terms of aftermarket parts, yes.

blah you guys suck! haha. i guess i got the advice i seeked, cheers.

haha i knew this thread would turn

hahaha, yeah i guess so. i just thought it would be cool to try out an idea i havn't heard before!

a friends car who uses the stock ceramic turbo also does this..

well that's what i'm scared of, and i don't want to try it incase i cause damage. i got the whole idea from a vlt owner, which was saying alot of people wrap the end of their fullhektik "dose" pipes with it to catch dust. has anyone had any similar experience with this?

it's dodge, but i think the air flow would be better than a panel filter. i couldn't think of anything else that would catch dust. that's the whole reason i want to try..

hey guys, i was wanting to experiment with making a frame the same size as a panel filter and covering it with a nylon stocking for my airbox. (which has a CAI pipe) do you think i would get dust particles flowing through? would the stocking be tough enough to withstand the intake pressure? would it seem like a safe idea? your thoughts..

hey bud i can't really tell but is it a standard type-m bar or the aero type-m bar?

just make sure you make a CAI for it. i went down to the local car wash who are pricks and cut a half metre off their thick vacuum cleaner hose! i pressure cleaned it of course

i've been using the standard airbox with a cold air intake running from the front bar and feeding straight into the snorkel. a couple of weeks back i put on a huge 6" M's K&N pod and instantly noticed sufficient lag, even with the cold air intake pipe in place. i've always been against pods because of heatsoak. my next mission is to cut a hole with a holesaw undeneath the airbox and through the chassis, and place a 2nd cold air intake pipe there. might even replace my filter with a bit of stockings for better air intake. my2c!

i have a jasma exhaust which is very quiet for a 3". can hardly hear it at idle but when you punch it she opens up.

they were racing to beat the line at their local centrelink

i had a similar problem while i was looking for the right spark plugs for my RB20, as the RB engines are picky/fussy with plugs. i've tried a few different NGK plugs, and have found BKR7E to be the best. they have a 0.8mm gap and won't blow out the spark under boost. hope that helps.

my cat sensor is going stupid since the hot wave of heat a couple weeks back. thinking of cutting the wire to shut the thing up!

mine warms up for a minute. i then drive under 2k until temp is normal as i can't stand the flat spots of running rich and retarded. what does my head in is if i drive under boost (<3k), my clutch is an annoying bitch to drive with and the car feels rigid.. whereas if i change over 3k she wants to get up and going all the way to limiter. i guess i can change over 3k with half acceleration, but who wants to waste valuable boost?

along with that, mine's have brought out their version of the godzilla CLICK!

sold

pics plz

will they fit into an rb20det? will they need a resistor pack?

thanks for your help buddy

well mine is welded to a intercooler pipe, which is why i run 2 lines with the stock bov

my hks ssqv bov never made my car stall. aslong as you keep the standard bov plumback and set up a t-peice in the vac line it will run fine. if you only run a single vac line to the atmo it'll start stalling and what not.