dmr

delete please

anyone?

if the smoke is a white/grey colour under boost then check your cooler and intake piping for blow-by, check your catch can (or get one if you don't have one) and do a wet and dry comp test on your motor checking for consistency and drop differences. after this you will have an indication if the problem is your motor or your turbo.

RB20 silver top (145PSI comp across all 6, 0PSI difference) TR43 (Garrett T04E internals), internal waste-gate, low mount 3" exhaust with mid and rear muffler 600x300x75mm front mount intercooler Turbotech manual boost controller Z32 air flow meter Standard airbox (bottom half removed) with CAI 3" metal intake pipe R34 GTR injectors Bosch 019 fuel pump Adjustable cam gears (inlet and exhaust) NGK BCPR7ES spark plugs Car made 208.8rwkw/364.1nm on 15PSI with a steady 11.5 AFR Going back for re-tune with aftermarket coilpacks and expecting 220-230rwkw @ 17PSI Big thanks to Trent at Status Tuning.

looking for a GTR blow off valve, will buy single or pair. located in melb, will pick up. pm or sms 0432 326 673 cheers

1mm of shaft play is usually fine, but an RB20 turbo would be way too small for an RB25.

no idea on how he got it to fit, he brought the car with the turbo previously installed. he gets full boost at around 5,500rpm. i fit a TR43 (almost same size) on my RB20 low mounted. i had to grind back a millimeter of the manifold and rotate the turbo housings a couple degrees.

sorry for my ignorance well my friends R33 has a low mounted GT3040 on factory manifold and is making around 270kw at the wheels on around 1.3BAR with cams and PFC.

GT3540?

sell the skyline, buy a honda and install as many neons as you like.

have you seen street racing in the arab countries? full off-road 4WD spec, 1000BHP setups. check out youtube

buy and try

it depends on the size of the turbo and the condition of the motor. no one can put their finger down and say "you can run X amount of boost on a X motor". there is only safe boost information for turbos. my advise would be to do a wet and dry compression test, return the results to your tuner and let him estimate what he thinks is safe. hopefully he knows what he is doing and has come across an RB and GT3037 combo before which he can base his safest tune from.

spot on. i would get a professional to check it out before you start spending big cash.

great looking wheels, good luck with the sale

yeah same story. it runs off a different computer.

from my understanding and experiences with hicas, the more angle and speed you get the more unpredictable and "angry" it becomes. haha

hicas is really annoying! it's sort of hard to tell when it occurs until you lock it. when you're sliding with hicas, everything is under control, then all of a sudden the car tries to straighten itself. counter steering is when it becomes dangerous and unpredictable. once you lock it, you'll wish you did it earlier

i've been told that after around 220rwkw and hard driving, the RB20 box will deteriorate. i never really listen to hearsay about mechanical parts and their strengths, because every car is different. 2 friends of mine (between 150-180rwkw) drive their cars like they're stolen. constant race changes, snapping gears and clutch kicks. their gear boxes have become very very noisy and it sounds almost like they're going to lose a gear any time soon. i run 210rwkw at the moment, and i drive sane. my box is free of noises and engages all the gears properly. the RB25DET gearbox is definitely a worthy upgrade if you're going to drive hard, but i'd say just drive till it breaks then worry about replacing or upgrading.

no need to run a peice of pipe through

po-po gonna love you

thats pretty cheap

i was a bit worried about the boost controller spiking, but it never spiked on me at 15PSI. yeah i can't wait for the results either! i've had this turbo on for ages while modding up all the last necessary parts needed before tuning. hopefully i can push to 250rwkw, but we'll see how it goes. i only thought about getting an adj fuel reg for precision tuning for the fuel system, but if it's not a need then i won't bother with it. i maxed out at 210rwkw @ 15psi because of the standard afm, so the z32 was needed. i'll consider taking my car to you, but i'm still deciding and evaluating. everyone i know with a hypergear turbo hasn't had any problems. the owner tao is also a great guy who will go out of his way to help his customers. thanks for your reply. i've heard good things about sam's tuning, so i will also consider him.

hey guys, i have an RB20 with a TR43 (440hp/20psi) strapped on and ready to make some power. it's time to tune and i've decided thoroughly to go with a remap to keep everything looking standard (aftermarket ecu info not needed/wanted, thanks). the usual mods include full exhaust, cooler, boost cont, gtr injectors, bosch 019, z32 afm, hd clutch etc.. everything is setup not to max out before the turbo. what i'm wanting to know is: #1: what is a remap worth these days? i got quoted $950 from one place and $780 from another, both in melbourne. does this sound right? i've always been under the impression through reading on the forums that remaps cost ~$500-600? (note that this is the first tune from factory maps) #2: is there anything that i should get before the tune that may help the tune? eg; adjustable fuel reg? (also, the car will have cam gears installed before the tune) #3: who has had experience with the turbotech manual boost controllers at high boost? at 15psi mine runs fine and doesn't spike at all, but i plan to bring it between 18psi and 19psi (turbo has a 15psi actuator). i don't really want to get an electronic module because i'm trying to keep everything looking as factory as i can. #4: any extra info i need to know about remaps? experiences? thanks

i wouldn't advise driving it un-tuned after installation. put it this way; driving it from my mechanics driveway onto the tow-truck, and then driving it off the tow-truck and into my garage fouled the plugs!