dmr

i would go with a 180sx SR20. full exhaust, fmic and some boost will pull you back in your seat. it's amazing how much torque they produce in stock form for a small 4cyl. they have plenty of aftermarket support for engine and body, and they have also dropped a bit in price over the last 2 years. as bozodos said, everyone i know with a WRX is blowing gearboxes. commonly caused by heavy duty clutches ripping the gears apart. and these are only cars with exhaust, fmic and boost. i wouldn't bother touching one as there's alot more aftermarket availability for nissan turbo cars, and more know how. if you were wanting a 4WD, i would go with a GTR.

RB20DET injectors and R33 S1 AFM SOLD.

RB25DE came out in the R32

the R32 GTS came out with an RB20DE and an RB25DE. the GXi model came out with a CA18i but you'll never find one in aus. the only turbo engine that came out rear wheel drive was the RB20DET. i would personally wait until you were off your P's so you can get a turbo skyline, as there's a lot more room for modification and less hassles with engine swaps. a friend of mine has a GTS RB20DE and the power just doesn't compare if that's what you're looking for.

i can't believe i just clicked into this thread.

bumpski, need to clear room! also have R32 GTSt standard shocks and springs $120

damn can't edit post. above parts are R32 unless marked.

time to clean out the garage! glove box - $50 cluster surround - $70 center console - $50 climate control surround (tiny crack) - $30 washer bottle - $40 RB20DET injectors, no leaks - $90 R33 GTSt series 1 afm (green sticker) - $120 S13 power steering pump - $40 parts located in reservoir, melbourne 3073 pick up only contact via PM or SMS 0422 789 499

my R32 never stalled with a HKS SSQV BOV when i had it.

R34 GTR injectors, R33 GTR resistor pack and Z32 air flow meter installed.

lock that shit out, worth every penny!

i'm not running as much power as 300rwkw, but i've reverted back to the standard airbox with the bottom half taken off and seen no power loss opposed to a pod filter. i like to keep everything looking stock.

in most cases it would be cooler piping, but it might even be a stuck actuator?

stock bov starts to leak depending on age of components after around 10PSI. a GTR bov would be a beneficial upgrade as they can handle around 20PSI.

funnily enough someone i know is considering buying these wheels for shits and giggles.

alot of people use the GT2871R turbo or the S15 T28BB turbo. they respond well and produce decent power. boost control can either be a T-peice or electronic, depending on your funds. any boost gauge will do as long as it works. coilover suspension with damper and camber adjustments will be good, and some swaybars. you can either remap your standard ecu or go with a powerfc which are quite common. once again it all depends on your funds. you may also need to upgrade your air flow meter to a Z32 item depending on your decision. bosch 019 or 040 fuel pumps are great and decently priced. injectors will have to be upgraded. nismo/sard 555cc are a good upgrade. in regards to order of install, i would go fuel pump, boost cont, turbo, ecu + injectors + afm (if needed) then tune. that's a basic list for some decent power, but the list can go on forever depending what you want from your car. rough estimated prices can be found on here in the for sale section, or check out nissansilvia.com for more detailed information. cheers

negative camber. i noticed the traction difference at the front as soon as i added 2.0 degrees (which is bugger all). i think it's a quite worthy mod.

no intentions of offending, but my opinion is i've always thought bodykits suited skylines and silvias except for R32. the only thing that i think looks clean for a street R32 is the GTR front bar and the rest kept standard, but in my eyes a full bodykit looks tacky, big and too out there unless it's a full spec drift pig. lol @ sales skills. haha

make sure you run a catch can if you're not going to have a cam breather on your intake pipe, or your engine won't breathe properly.

getting a hi-flow like this would be ideal and strong, but unfortunately not all hi-flows are of the same workmanship as the ones you describe which makes the bad category of hi-flow turbos. as they say, you get what you pay for.

for the price of hi-flowing an RB20 turbo (T25 equivalent), you could have yourself a very good condition/near new HKS 2530 or Garrett GT28RS which are very reputable for the RB20. they'll both produce more power and have less chance of bearing/wheel failure unlike most hi-flowed turbos. after all, hi-flows are increasing the turbos flow and efficiency inside the same housing which they are not designed to do. the only advantage you will have is increasing boost past 12-14PSI of what the standard ceramic wheels can handle. a friend of mine has an RB20 turbo hi-flowed from Rotomaster which he brought for $1,300. even having a TR43 on my car, the power from the hi-flow is quite unimpressive and weak compared to mine and other turbos of the same price and value. IF you were to choose a hi-flow, you're better off going with an RB25 hi-flow turbo.

if you decide to go with a Z32 AFM, you can always use a VL commodore AFM plug from a wreckers for a bit of spare change. saves buying bosch or tomei plugs.

i'm happy to hear yet another great result from the RB20. these sorta threads keep me motivated to support the little ripper. who gives a shit about lag down low when you have all hell breaking loose up top!

talking about RWC... i got done last week by an absolute wanker of a cop who was very arrogant and had a personal hate for jap cars. his name or station i will not mention. but i'll have to say this is one of the worst cops i've come across who also got me for a couple other things. anyways he defected me for no water in the washer bottle, an indicator (the wire had ripped out but it was a 1 minute fix with tape but he refused to let me fix it) and 4 tyres (fronts were road worthy but the rears had slight camber wear). funnily enough he forgot to tick the "RWC" box on the defect notice.. although he ticked it on the yellow windshield sticker. with 1/2 a litre of water, 2cm of electrical tape, and a $3 can of tire shine the defect was cleared the next day.

try NGK BKR7E spark plugs and installing the bosch pump. you should have no troubles after.