tarmac

Running a 30 block, 25 head, 1.3mm thick headgasket, hks stage 1 rb25det cams with 8.8mm lift. Using the spool RB30DET kit, with 9:1 compression. Any ideas if the clearance will be ok?

Hi guys Am wiring up my rb25det alternator, I know one wire goes to the battery, one goes to the dash bulb, but I dont have a dash anymore(racecar) so wondering is there a certain size resistor I can put in that wire and if so, what size, or any other ways to do it? Thanks

Yeh upgrading costs time and money, as much as id like to. I heard from a tuner that its sweet to just turn off around 5800rpm or alternatively best to leave it on the whole time and sacrifice abit of top end as opposed to leaving it off. Still needa find some way to control it tho.

I have an older link and want to make a RPM controller so VCT is on always until 5800rpm, any idea of where I could find a unit to hook up to a relay for the VCT? Thanks

Engine was warm, had been running for say 5mins. Ill measure it today n see how much its flowing. Thanks

Does this flow from the oil return look like enough? Thought its abit slow?

thanks guys. ended up getting a set of slotted and dimple rotors . see how they go .

Stiffen your suspension?

I keep warping discs on me r33 due to things breaking and on track and having no time for cool down laps . Wonder if going to cross drilled rotors will do anything for this and if it will provide any performance increase? Cheers

Thanks mate!

Sorry whos PPG, can you give me a link? Thanks

Opened it up , heres the damage. Who will stock a selector fork, Nissan Genuine only? Cant find any steel aftermarket ones? Any ideas. Used in a full race car, dont really want to have to replace alloy ones again. And am wondering what the name of this bearing is here, as mine looks like its geting quite tired. Thanks

Interesting topic. Seeing as im about to align my 33 gtst this week with all new arms, can someone point to a good height for a gts25t . I think i have heard 340mm f. 350mm r, , and where is this measured from, from guard to center of hub?

Viscous lsd . Id need the whole subframe and axles etc for a gtr diff is that correct?

^^ Thanks alot, gives me a good starting point. Appreciated. What are your thoughts on running a locked diff as opposed to standard lsd, is the understeer part going to play quite a major role in the cars handling? Ive driven some 2 way lsd's and its pritty much like driving a lock diff anyway,

Whats your thoughts on a lock diff in a r33 for track racing running full slicks etc.. Shimmed lsd's dont last. Is it possible to lock up the VLSD properly or must I go single spinner then lock that. Cheers

I could always lock it up, not so keen on it flying to pieces at 240k's tho.. Maybe ill add some rear toe on next alignment and see how it feels.

Ok cheers. So im on a limited budget-ish, In terms of arms at the moment the only set I have are castor and HICAS locked. Other mods include locked subframe, whiteline front/rear sway bars, coil overs, full rollcage. Which arms would you be looking at doing next . And where would you place lower control arm bushes or rose joints in the order of urgency. I really need a better diff however am thinking of locking it for track racing for now, the single 1 spinner VLSD is shite house.. What are your thoughts? Running full sicks, 17"/ 245 Cheers heres some in car vids, may give you a better idea how it rides , laps get faster from about a 1.30 on in the vid . Theres alot of weight still in there which im taken out over the next week too . 256rwkw.

Duncan : .. Im in the dilema or choosing between rose joints or bushes - from reading through these forums ive gathered that rose joints dont seem to last at all? Rose joints would be my preferred option but I believe sydneykid(i think) mentioned they only get a few races out of each set, which i find hard to believe. What are your experiences?.. I also think your getting nolathane confused with noltec, the local BNT here mentioned the nolathane have been taken over by whiteline, and noltec is different.?? Thanks for the replies

Sweet, thanks . Think whiteline is looking like the go.

Cheers for the reply. Rear has neutral toe , any suggestions. Am running full 17inch slicks. Still running standard diff, its rubbish, am trying to find a 2way, past experienes with shimming diffs is they dont last long enough. Height wise i will check, however it looks similar to your car in your photos, e.g. not very low. Will have a play with camber. I will look into nolathane bushes for rear RCA's, there doesnt seem to be a part number for front however, is there no bush in the front arm or? What are your toe settings.. Thanks

For my race car, what do people suggest, Noltec or Nolathane - pure track car running slicks, r33 gtst. I heard noltec are weaker than nolathane ? Thanks

And in terms of adjusting bump steer, I know of nobody who has any idea about how to adjust it, so i think leaving the traction arms at standard length maybe best ? It is purely a race car so gets used about 1 hour a week

Currently running 0.5degrees toe out on front, 8/6kg springs, rose jointed caster arms, lock subframe, no hicas, adjustable whiteline sway bars, ISC coil overs 2.5 degrees rear camber, 2.5degrees front camber Am thinking to add some rear traction arms, camber arms front and rear, and possibly nolethane bush the lower control arms. Is there anything I can do for the steering rack mounts, are there bushes or what ever I can buy to get it abit firmer as on lower speed tracks with heavy cornering the steering can become quite heavy. Is there anything I can do to the subframe to beef it up? The car is tight, but its not as tight as i'd like it to be, cornering at 200k's there is quite abit of play.. ( has a full rollcage) Is anyone willing to point me in the right direction in terms of alignments etc, or any advice to tighten it up. Currently doing 1.08s around Pukekohe NZ.

Before doing anything engine wise id recommend doing a fuel pump, you never really know the condition of the standard, running lean never good. Up to you tho, you have low k's. Up the boost to 10 - 12psi, however factory 33 ecu's have a point when too much boost triggers the last timing column in the ecu and pulls back timing something cronic so be sure you stay under that. You'll feel it. Use a decent boost controller , ball n spring types are normally decent enough. Could always chuck it on a dyno with a knock block and a/f's n adjust ya crank angle sensor timing till just before you get detonation, thatll give ya some more.