Strik3r

Fineline doesn't jump on here much (though he might from time to time) Lot of parts listed on facebook - get in touch with him there -> https://www.facebook.com/noel.teelow

Closed. Car is being parted out.

My circumstances have changed. Going through a separation, and this needs to go. Massive price drop to $28k if it can be sold soon.

Bumping again. To be clear - the above list is not everything that has been done to the car that list is much too long If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I am willing to negotiate and we might be able to work something out depending on what extra's you want to take.

Bump. Have taken a bit off the price. $33k gets you everything including spares etc. Will drop a bit lower if you don't want some of the extra stuff. But don't waste my time with offers of $25k, i'm going to keep it if i can't get more than that.

bump.

I can't believe I'm actually typing this post up, but I need to be realistic about my current situation and the GTR doesn't fit into my life at the moment. I will touch on a few bits and pieces about the car, but I don't really want to spend an hour writing an essay describing everything that has been done to it - it is pretty much a track weapon that can sneak around on the streets (still registered) without too much attention. If you are not interested in racing/time attack/track events, don't bother with this car - there is not enough 'street' about it to make it at all reasonable to someone looking for a weekender. Engine 550hp RB26, N1 block at factory bore (1 rebuild with a tiny hone, so plenty left in the block) Full race head (will discuss details further with serious buyers) Full race bottom end (will discuss details further with serious buyers) Garret GT3788R All expected supporting mods (full ignition system, intercooler, full exhaust etc.) PFC Djetro Gearbox & Diffs Rb26 box with cryotreated gearset from GTS4 (shorter gears) All new syncros and bearings Short shift kit Cryotreated Front and rear crown wheel and pinions from GTS4. (4.375 ratio) Diffs reassembled with new bits and pieces as needed. Suspension & Brakes Modified Tein RA coilovers with custom made springs (8kg front and rear) Fully adjustable suspension parts (Camber/caster) HICAS lock bar. Alcon 6 pot front brakes with 375mm rotors (V8 super car rotors) Project Mu racing pads Brembo rears. Other 3 litre Accusump setup in boot (manual valve but you can replace this with an electronic one if you dont want to have to open/close it every time you turn the car on/off) Full fuel system (2*044s in boot, factory pump in lift pump) Will include a Carter lift pump in sale, but needs to be installed. Full Roll cage w/ padding Rear sets and trim removed, air con removed. BRIDE carbon fibre seats. Ruzic EM 2 pro Volk Te37 rims (9.5*18) Federal 595RSR (265/35/18) tyres with plenty of life left in them Spare set of wheels (5Zigens 9.5*18) with some ancient RE55s on them (not usable, need to be replaced) In all honesty, there are a million other things I haven't included that can be discussed with someone who is serious. Car has done a 59 around sprint on the older 595RSR's. Put some decent rubber on it, and if you can steer you will head into the mid 50's pretty quick. Car has done a 11.5 down the quarter @ 126mph and a 1.85 60ft. Good for a low 10 with good drag radials. Will respond to serious questions, but please don't waste my time. $35,000 as a starting point. Will consider removing some things to lower the price, but in all honesty you really want the car as it is. I will take serious buyers for test drives, but no one else drives the car until I've been given money as it is not insured at the moment. More pics @ http://www.australianstreetcar.com.au/photogallery/issue-1---gervase-tuxworths-r33-gtr-skyline.html

Thread bump :> Long story cut short I am in the market for a part time tow vehicle / full time daily that can handle towing my 33 GTR. With a ~700kg trailer, that will take total tow weight to around 2100kg. Looking at a dual axle trailer with electronic braking. As I said, this will be my daily driver to get to work and stuff, so a big tanky landcruiser or patrol is not ideal (not to mention the petrol costs). I would estimate towing the GTR ~10 times a year or less for 45 minutes each way (race track and back), but would like the capacity to handle an annual trip down to Sydney for WTAC. In reality this is 8 parts daily and 2 parts tow. Budget is.. well I originally said $15k, but have been considering things priced around $20k if they are a good solution. I do like my creature comforts, so comfy seats and a nice stereo is a big plus. Current ideas (and examples): Mitsubishi Pajero (2 door version): http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mitsubishi-Pajero-2009/SSE-AD-2787154/ Kia Sorento: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Kia-Sorento-2007/SSE-AD-2854481/ VW Toureg: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Volkswagen-Touareg-2007/SSE-AD-2913717/ Anyone have thoughts/opinions/other options ?

Started the GTR for the first time in about 3 months today. Purrs like a kitten.. a big angry kitten.

Have they started actually clamping down on the speeds ?

Another r33 has been pinched. Taken from outside my mates house when he was at work. The car was for sale, ad with pics -> http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details...28&__N=1246 Car was fitted with a steering lock, mongoose alarm and immobilizer. Professional job, they probably would have had to bring a spare steering wheel along. The car was spotted by police down on the gold coast, they tried to pull it over but it sped off and it was deemed to dangerous to chase. If you happen to spot it or find anything out, please just call the police and pass the info on to them.

What Stuart said is dead on the money. The solution is all about providing an avenue for the engine to breathe where it doesn't have to push oil out with it. I am in the process of pretty much duplicating the setup he has -> I only wish I'd read about it rather than having to come up with the answer after 3 years of cleaning oil out of my engine bay. One other thing - the one way valve on the drain from the catch can to the sump is a MUST. Otherwise the oil gets forced up the drain and will fill your secondary catch can.

+1 for ERD [email protected] is the email addy.

Apparently if you get them re-balanced they are fine ? Or was there more to the story ?

I should mention this is for a 95% track car. It's technically still street registered, but doesn't see many k's aside from driving to the workshop and driving to the track.

Wondering what choices I have re: replacing tailshaft. The boot in the centre bearing of my tailshaft split, which means it needs to come apart to be repaired and will therefore need to be re-balanced before it goes back in the car. We ballpark total cost to be about $400 to repair, rebalance and refit the tailshaft. Thats a fair bit of dosh, and we were pondering other options. So far: a) Buy 2nd hand tailshaft. ~$100. b) Repair this one. ~$400-450 c) UAS 1 piece Chromolly tailshaft. Retail $980 + shipping. d) ?? profit ?? Anyone have any suggestions? I'm glad I wasn't pondering this 2 years ago when the APTC tailshaft fiasco went down. Are there any other local places that will do a carbon tailshaft ? Car is a '97 GTR.

nice to meet a few of you today. Hope to see you guys at a few of the SAU QLD events !

+! EFI

Where are you getting them for $300 a tyre ? I was told to expect to pay about $500 a corner for the FZ201's.... Edit: That was for 265/35/18.. obviously cheaper in other sizes...

I'd say your doing it wrong Only way you are dropping from ~7k to 2k is if your foot isn't on the loud pedal when you drop the clutch. If you bring it up to 7k and then sit their part throttling and then drop the clutch, then yes, it will bog down because as soon as load is applied to the engine, its bogging down because you're only 1/4 throttle. Try holding the rev's at ~4k, then when you're ready to launch, plant your right foot, wait 1 second then dump the clutch. That should get you going. At the drag strip, i've found that holding it at about 3.5-4 while staging, then as soon as the first light on the xmas tree appears, plant right foot, by the time the xmas tree hits green, you're JUST touching the limiter. If you don't want to bang the limiter, then wait an extra half second before you plant the right foot. In your car (which is more responsive than mine), as long as you're right foot is planted when you want to launch, anything over ~6k rpm is going to get you going

^^ that was meant to be me :>

Hey guys, finally got a black 350GT and would like to meet up with you guys on a cruise...is there one coming up soon???

you would need: AWD gearbox (~$1000) Front sump and diff from an rb26 ($400) A custom adaptor plate to bolt the 26 sump onto the 25/20 block. (approx $800-1000) G sensors (~$1000 new, hard to find at wreckers) Front drive shafts ($?) Attessa ECU ($?) Attessa Pump ($?) Wiring loom for Attessa ($?) and probably about 20-30 hours labour @ ~$100 p.h...

Pretty sure my car only ran about 17 degrees of timing at 7500rpm. That side of things sounds normal. 376hp @ ~18psi sounds perfectly normal to me for a 3076R.... I'm not sure what your expecting/complaining about.

was nothing like that. Motor lasted 2.5 years making 600hp, ~15 track days, 2 drag days, over 200 dyno runs and ~15000 street km's. We're taking measures to make sure it doesn't happen again. Best we can figure, combination of heat and vibration has caused them to come loose.