Strik3r

+111ty for Dan @ ERD.

im sure he'll believe you

he made about the same power as me so i'd assume its the 0.84. how similar were the 2 engine setups as far as supporting mods go? Same cams/headwork/cam gear settings/intake/exhaust ?

thats impressive... you can squeeze a few more pounds out of them !

each to their own.. i'd say that the t04z in those graphs has one of the larger exhaust housings (.9 / 1.0) not the 0.84 cause my response is a fair bit better than that.

2nd for www.timeattack.com.au !

Some say he was born in the nissan factory next to a bunch of rb26's. Others say he was conceived in one of the bores of an N1 block.

Give Dan at Elite Racing Developments an email. He is a good welder and I think he'd be able to pack his welder in his car and make a trip out to you. He is west side too so shouldnt be too hard to set it up. http://www.erd.com.au use the contact form and explain what you want done and he'll get back to you.

if your making no boost at all, then i would guess your wastegates are stuck open/opening as soon as there is pressure. Possibly sonething wrong with your wastegate actuators ?

MAP sensor here too. Given the choice, i'll always go MAP over AFM. The number of AFM related issues that seem to pop up all the time is crazy. I went through 3 AFMs on my old car, and it still never was quite right.

If you have the -10's already then im sure you'll be happy. But as food for thought, here is my t04z dyno graph. As you can see, 1 bar at 4krpm, full boost by 4500.. and it makes close to peak power by 6000 rpm. Put the same thing on a 3 litre bottom end, and you would probably have 24psi before 4000rpm! p.s. both combinations are good for at least 100 more hp than what your goal is. but i guess that leaves you plenty of room when you want to chase more power best of luck, let us know how you go.

PWR twin pass alloy radiator (one of the big ones), stock water pump & thermostat. After about 8 hotlaps of QR on a 30 degree day, water temps peaked at 83.. normally sits on 79-80 while cruising. I have moved the oil cooler and removed the aircon so the radiator gets better flow, but aside from that, nothing fancy cooling wise. if you have the time/money, its not going to hurt.. just doesnt seem necissary.

to add, with an rb30 bottom end you will see at least a bar by 3800.. i think im a tiny bit later than that (4k/4100 maybe) but its really not too bad. If you simply bolt a t04z onto a rb26, yes it will be laggy.. but if you set everything up right (cams, manifold, headwork) you can gain response and power. when your talking about chasing more than about 400hp, i think big singles are a better option than twins as well.

t04z ftw I'll have to check my dyno charts to see exact response, but it makes peak power pretty much as soon as its on full boost and holds it right through to redline. You can get an 0.7 rear for the t04z, but it limits the power and you'd be better off going a GT3540 than a .7 t04z. im running the .84 rear and it seems to be the best blend between response and a fktonne of power. Even on the dyno the car was trying to launch off the rollers when it came on boost.

Alexandra Hills

Not at the moment although it may be something Dan offers in the future.

at 8psi it sounds about right.. why arent you running 18 psi ?? If the turbo is highflowed and steelwheeled, 16-18psi is fine. What form of boost control do you have ? Sounds like you need a decent one of those and a retune should see you hit 230rwkw

just because its not pinging doesn't mean that it wont melt a piston. I doubt you will find many tuners saying a 13:1 AFR is A-OK at 7000-8000 rpm on a car making 500awhp. Only my 2c anyway. Do what you will.

You need to flush your power steering fluid. It is probably the cause for your heavy steering and your HICAS light coming on. It is not an expensive process and isn't a hard thing to do, but if in doubt, give Dan @ Elite Racing Developments a buzz and get him to do a service and power steering flush. http://www.erd.com.au.

13 is too lean at the top end.. if it is actually that lean at 7-8000rpm you will kill your engine very quickly. get it on a dyno asap.

the same 2 recommendations as were previously on here Chilton Engineering or JHH if your after engineering (boring/honing/balancing). If you need a builder/mechanical god, check out Dan @ Elite Racing Developments (http://www.erd.com.au)

talk to your lawyer, thats what you've paid him for. I have never been to court before, but presumably whenever you were going to ask for another 2 weeks, just say something like "the police have failed to provide me with the documents that I have requested and am legally entitled to and as such has wasted another one of my days, and more of the courts time. I wish to ask for the case to be dismissed so I dont have to waste more of the courts time in dealing with a bogus offense." again, talk to your lawyer - i may have it all wrong ^_^

Ask for another 2 weeks? I'd be asking for the case to be thrown out. Say your sick of them wasting your time and money, as well as the courts.

could also be a restriction in the exhaust or in the intake. Either can cause pressure loss like your describing.

Give Dan from Elite Racing Developments a buzz. He will probably suggest a few things you can check, and if you can't get it going yourself, he's the best guy to work on the car. http://www.erd.com.au or click my sig.