Strik3r

Give Dan at Elite Racing Developments an email. You can discuss your needs/goals with him and he can source just about any exhaust system your after. http://www.erd.com.au or click my sig.

Located in Alexandra Hills. If you've filled out the form I'm sure they will be in touch in the next day or 2 to discuss it all with you.

me ! different turbo for different application. A t04z is good for another 100hp on top of what the gt35r makes at the expense of a bit more lag. If you can deal with the lag or are willing to spend a bit of money upgrading everything to improve response, then why not take the extra power!

Dan from Elite Racing Developments ! http://www.erd.com.au or click my sig. Definitely the best around.

definitely look at the exhaust before you look at anything else.. if your cat is a 2.5" entry that could be holding you back big time.. I doubt that plennum is a restriction at that power level. Its a 2 minute test. Drop the exhaust after the dump pipe and put it on the dyno. if you have good power, you know you've got a restriction. Other questions that come to mind - what fuel system are you running (pump, pressure reg). fluctuating fuel pressure could make it difficult to control the AFR's which would explain why they are a bit jumpy.. However at no point is it running overly rich, so i dont think your losing power because of the AFR's...

Im running Splitfire coils and a HKS TwinSpark CDI system. @ 18psi of boost i can run 1 - 1.11mm gap with no missfire.. at 25psi of boost i get a bad missfire that goes away when i go down to 0.9. I havent done back to back tests of the HP difference but its going to be pretty small. For peace of mind, and because its a track car, im just going to stick to buying 0.8mm gapped plugs. there is possibly 10hp per 0.1mm increase in gap size but if you have a missfire your going to lose all of those gains and then some. @ 10psi with splitfire you will have no dramas at 1.1. When you start running higher boost numbers you need to lower the gap or upgrade your ignition system.

PFC air temp correction doesnt kick in till 70 degrees. My intake temps are similar to yours - 45-50 degrees in summer. A lot of it depends on where your intake temp sensor is located as you can get a lot of heat radiating from the engine block. You have to be careful when shielding your pods. I have a shield up on the side between filter and block, but when i put a cover over the top as well, my intake temps actually go up by a few degrees (not enough air movement in the air box). I think its not a bad idea to have some sort of wall between your air filter and the engine, but aside from that, look at some ducting to run from somewhere in your front bar and up into your pod area. If its purefuly for track/drag use then consider removing your passenger side head light while you are at the event - thats a direct feed of cold air straight to your filter. whats your engine setup ? Its possible you were on a happy dyno and aren't making as much power as you think ?? Also things like track conditions, tyres, etc. can effect your trap speed/time. Its also possible you've reached the limits of your intercooler. Check for pressu re differences on each side of the cooler, and also see if you can measure intake temps pre and post cooler to see how well a job its doing.

hmm, thats the next TimeAttack day.. No reason I can't make it in the evening though.. put me down as a spot +2.

i think mick just split a silicon join on one of his intercooler pipes.. not a biggy, but stopped him from running (sadface). Good to meet a few of you yesterda (Zennon, Mick). I see a long learning process ahead for me. Maybe its time to head out to the go-karts for some practice on raceing lines

haha, hi niggy You gonna be there ? I'll keep my eye out for you if you are havent seen you in a fair few years

not block noise Dan ?

hmmmmmmm.. sounds a bit like piston slap (piston slapping against the side of the bore while cold) but that shouldnt happen in a standard internals engine.. could be something at the little end of the rod... it doesnt sound quite like big end knock.

*mr burns voice* exceeellllent Looking forward to this. 1 week and counting !

Dan from Elite Racing Developments is not too far away (20-25 minutes) in Alexandra Hills. Check my signature for his contact details.

very nice mick! Would have loved to have lined up against you yesterday but my clutch had other ideas. I'd say that power figure is about on the money for 20psi on that turbo. Any reason you stopped at 20psi ? Should handle 25 easily enough even with pump fuel. (Noel was running 26psi through his 3540 on pump). Thats gotta be worth another 30kw at least ?

There is an easy gain if you can grab second before you hit limiter.. sounds like it bounced of it at least 2 times.. thats gotta be worth .1 of a second. Keep up the good work! Out of curiosity, whats your response like with that turbo compared to say, a Garret t04z which is in the same power range.

why does the power drop nearly 60 horsepower from 5500 to redline ??

I heard today Gibson used to tune their qualifying GTR's to 12.7:1.... but they also had over 1000 degrees exhaust temps and had to make special brackets to hold the exhaust manifold up as it got so hot it started drooping. In a track car i'd say that its too lean but thats just my opinion and really its up to you, your use of the car and your tuner. If your tuner says its fine, then its fine. If you dont trust your tuner, find a new one. Second guessing them is no good.

don't revise your turbo choice.. revise your power goals

i'm surprised it isn't lower... didn't i hear someone ran a high 10 with stock turbos and a bit over 350hp ?

it did eventually blow up on him.. but he was making around 500hp... i think your referring to this thread --> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...25-t106775.html

yea, those are all fine. I was referring to exhaust gas tempreature - it can be used as an indication of how hot your pistons are getting. the higher octane fuel will give you a bit of overhead as far as timing goes, but as long as the tune isn't knocking, that wont be a problem. If your afr's are too lean, you could melt a piston... gotta talk to your tuner bro - its important to trust what they have done, or if your not happy with it, discuss it with them further. If your own research disagrees with what your tuner is saying, then i guess you need to find a new tuner. No point in second guessing them...

looks a little on the lean side to me... like the above posters said, the scaling on the AFR y-axis makes it hard to see fluctuations and pin point exact AFR's, but it looks like 12.5 dropping to 12 just on redline..... I think 12 - 12.2 dropping to 11.8-12 by redline is a little safer.. I'd want to know how hot your exhaust temps were getting (this can be used as an indication to what your cylinder tempreature is). Keep in mind, if you do get them to richen it up a bit, you will lose a bit of power. (maybe 20-30kw ??). In the end, you need to trust your tuner and as far as I know, CRD have a pretty good reputation. Perhaps talk to them a bit about your AFR's and explain what your needs are and see what they have to say. If its for a street-only car, then those AFR's are probably fine as its rare that you do more than the occaisional squirt of WOT.

if you cant run a low 13 in a totally stock (exhaust,boost,etc.) r34 GTR V-spec, your not doing it right.

that depends on your intake setup.... if you want our opinions on your tune, take a photo/scan the printout and put it up here. 12.5 might be a tad on the lean side depending on the boost/RPM that its at.. 12-12.2 is ideal for WOT on boost.